Re: Schmidt and Bender 5x25x56 on a rfile with 40 MOA
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Arif</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi , I bought a Schmidt and Bender 5x25x56 and wish to put it on a Blaser Tactical 2 (still to purchase)my question is if I purchase the rifle which has 40 MOA forward angle on the rail can it be zeroed at 100 yards and would I still be abel to shoot past 1000 yards?</div></div>
You didn't mention what caliber you are planning on purchasing (.223W, .308W, .300WM, or 338LM,), but I'm guessing .308. That said you should have no problem mounting a S & B PMII 5-25X on a 40 MOA base and zeroing it at 100 yards. I zeroed my
<span style="font-weight: bold">Tac Ops X-Ray 51</span> at 100 yards on a 40 MOA two-piece base and after resetting the Elevation to zero I still have a full 26 MILs' of "Up". Depending upon the load and environmental conditions, 10 MILs' is enough to get most .308s' out to 1,000 yards.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Arif</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have 260 cm of elevation in the scope which I belive is close to 93 MOA.</div></div>
Yeah, 27.3 MILs/273 CMs) is right around 93 MOA. In their description of the 5-25X PMII, the
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">S & B web site</span></span> states <span style="font-style: italic">"The 5–25 x 56 is offered with 56 MOA of 1/4 MOA clicks, or 273cm (93 MOA) of 1cm clicks. Your choice of P3 or P4 reticles."</span>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Arif</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am new at this and trying to get into long range shooting. Any guidance would be appreciated</div></div>
Here are some good pointers for mounting a scope. A properly mounted and adjusted scope will be easier and more enjoyable to use while extending usage due to lack of eye strain.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Scope positioning and optimum Eye relief:</span>
In order to position your scope for optimum eye relief you need to have your head position and cheek weld be consistent and comfortable. Optimally, you should be able to shoulder your rifle and have your eye aligned with the reticle and have a "full scope". The first step here is to ensure that your rifle's LOP (Length-of-Pull) is right for your arm length. A rough rule-of-thumb is to measure from the crook of your elbow to the "pad" of your index finger while your elbow is bent and your index finger is bent as if you are pulling the trigger.
Once the LOP is set you are ready to go about positioning the the scope on the rifle. Please note that depending upon your scope's dimensions and location of saddle/block controls you may have to remove and reposition the rings on the rail a couple of times in order to get the right range of forward-aft travel required for proper positioning.
Although some scopes are more forgiving than others, magnification has an effect on eye relief on all scopes (the higher the magnification the less eye relief you will have), so it is generally best to set the scope for best eye relief while the scope is in the middle of the magnification range, unless you favor the low or high range a lot.
<span style="font-weight: bold">To determine optimum scope positioning:</span>
(1) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Do this several times - your head should be comfortable on the cheekpiece, returning to the same spot everytime you shoulder the rifle (of course, your head position will shift a bit between prone, bench, and offhand shooting). Place a piece of tape on the cheekpiece to mark your cheek position.
(2) Turn the magnification ring to somewhere in the middle range of of the scope's power - don't worry about adjusting the objective or diopter adjustments right now. Place the scope on a table or other stationary object, then look through the scope, keeping a "full scope" picture. Use your thumb and middle finger to span the distance between the eyepiece and your eye. Note this distance.
(3) Using the tape on the cheekpiece and the eyepiece-to-eye dimension as a reference, mount the rings and the scope on the rifle, tightening the ringtops just enough to keep the scope from sliding back and forth too easy.
(4) Close your eyes and shoulder your rifle. Open your eye, and without changing your cheekweld slide the scope forward or aft until you get a "full scope" picture. Now take your head off the cheekpiece and then re-shoulder the rifle. Do you have a full scope? If not, adjust the scope position until you can pick up the rifle, shoulder it, and have a full scope picture.
Torque the ring clamps to the manufacturer's specs, level the reticle, then torque the ring caps to manufacturer specs and you are ready to adjust the diopter.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Eyepiece (Diopter) adjustment:</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE: This is the correct procedure for Diopter (Eyepiece/Ocular) adjustment for both fixed and variable power scopes, regardless of manufacturer.</span>
<span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> If the scope is a fixed power unit skip steps 1 and 2 as they do not apply.
(1) Turn the magnification ring to maximum (highest power).
(2) Turn the Parallax focus to "Infinity" (the symbol for Infinity looks like a figure eight). <span style="font-weight: bold">NOTE:</span> Most non-side focus scopes use a ring on the objective bell to adjust parallax, and the distances are usually numbered. Side focus parallax adjustment knobs may or may not have distances marked.
(3) Turn the ocular bell/eyepiece all the way in.
(4) Aim the scope at a cloudless section of the sky (you don't want anything except sky in the view, or else your eye will naturally attempt to focus on the object in the view beyond the reticle.
(5) Look at something nearby, but not too close, then look through the scope at the reticle. If the reticle is out-of-focus turn it a bit to begin to focusing the reticle, but look away from the scope. Never look at the reticle for more than a couple of seconds when adjusting the eyepiece (if you look at the reticle for more than a second or two your eye will naturally begin to adjust to bring the reticle into focus - and you don't want this to happen. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">You want to be able to look through the scope and see a sharply focused reticle immediately with your eye relaxed</span></span>). This cannot be achieved by continuously looking through the scope and turning the eyepiece into focus in one continous motion because your eye will have already begun to adjust.
Remember, look away every few seconds and make small adjustments to dial-in the Ocular/Eyepiece focus. Once you have achieved this, you should not adjust the eyepiece at all, except to maintain proper focus as your vision changes over time <span style="font-style: italic">(it always does).</span> You may want to put a pen mark on the eyepiece indexed to the index dot on the scope tube - if the tube doesn't have an index mark use a pencil. That way, if someone else shoots your rifle and adjusts the Ocular you know where to return the adjustment to.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Zeroing the S & B PMII DT (Double Turn) Elevation Turret:</span>
If you don't have enough "Down" adjustment when trying to "zero" (you have the Elevation turret dialed all the way down to the "STOP") don't force it. Follow the steps below:
(1) Loosen the two (2) setscrews that secure the Elevation turret in place. You only need to loosen the setscrews about 1 turn.
(2) Remove the Elevation turret and turn it upside-down. Inside the turret you will see a metal cylinder with a slot machined into it. This slot engages a steel pin that changes the the "window" color from Black to Yellow and vice-versa when you dial between the first and second turns of the DT Elevation turret.
(3) Using a small screwdriver or other suitable object, reverse the orientation of the small cylinder (so that the indexing slot is on the opposite side). Don't worry about what color is showing through the windows right now - if the wrong color is showing through for the turn you are on you can reset the cylinder (and windows) again after you zero the scope.
(4) Sight-in (zero) the scope at whatever your desired zero is.
(5) Reset the Elevation and Windage turrets to "0" by loosening their respective setscrews and returning the turrets to "0", making sure that neither turret turns while you are loosening and tightening the setscrews.
NOTE: If you reset the indexing cylinder (in the DT Elevation turret) earlier you may need to reset the cylinder again. (If the windows are "Black", you're fine. If they are "Yellow", you need to remove the Elevation turret and reset the cylinder before zeroing the Elevation turret).
Keith
