Re: Schmidt und Bender
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whatever else I do, I gotta be able to see my crosshairs. I don't really do much with the tic marks I have now. But I guess you're supposed to be able to do "movers".</div></div>
Unless your eyes are worse than mine, you should be able to see the P4F's crosshairs at 5X, and the hashes down to 7X - I can see and read the Gen 2 XR in my PMII 5-25Xs' down to 8X, and the Gen 2 XR is more fine than a P4F. And as <span style="font-style: italic">Rob01</span> said, <span style="font-style: italic">"don't get hung up on movers"</span> - FFP is good for more than just movers - you can spot for and correct more accurately for yourself and others by calling corrections based on what is seen through the scope regardless of what magnification a FFP scope is set at.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sure I've used them to range with, I know that math, but they arent as accurate as my rangefinder. I've talked to guys who have competed and they say they never range with their reticle in competition. Just range find or they give you the distance, dial that in and then worry about the wind. Since this place is run by Rifles only and company, the emphasis seems to be on the way they do things. FFP is good for movers that is where it shines. Only I don't ever DO movers. But, you know, new glass, new system, learn something new that'l be a kick!</div></div>
OK, but suppose a Match Director or an instructor throws a curve and disallows use of a rangefinder in an early stage, and disallows use of rangefinders, only giving target dimensions? Or what if the batteries go dead? While you may not have to rangefind with a reticle very often, it is still a good skill to have. Try rangefinding by placing objects of known dimensions at various unknown distances and bracketing them with your reticle, then use a calculator and/or Mildot Master to estimate the range. Then check your distances with a good laser rangefinder. Its' kind of fun.
And again - FFP is good for more than just movers. Once you get your scope and shoot in the wind a bit I think you'll find that you'll like using the reticle for holding wind. Elevation, not as much unless there is a tail or headwind.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">All I do now is go out and verify my ballistics table on my new load and/or different rifle by going out and shooting 100 to 1000 yards, what a blast! I usually do even 100 yard increments but do mix it up. I shoot both paper targets and my 10" steel plate, but really it is paper that gives me what I need which is how many moa I am off both elevation and windage.</div></div>
The thicker (more coarse) main lines of the P4 are easier to see - especially at low power and are easy to quarter a 10" plate at 1,000 yards. Thats' a roughly 1 MOA target. However, start shooting at smaller targets (1/2 MOA or smaller) and you will quickly begin to appreciate the thinner main lines of a P4F. You can quarter a 1/2 MOA target alot more easily with a P4F than with a P4. The P4F's finer reticle allows you a more precise aiming point so it is also easier to pinpoint your POA on the target regardless of target size.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">So its range my target until I am the next 100 yards, set up and shoot, record my results and go look at how far off I am both elevation and windage and record it. If I am very far off I shoot it again at the same yardage.</div></div>
What are you using to create your ballistics tables - JBM? If so, and if you have access to an accurate, reliable chronograph (since you are reloading I surmise you do), after you get your Kestrel you can use it to obtain the Temperature, Humidity, and Barometric Pressure while you are at the range with your chronograph. Record the Velocity, Temp, Humidity, and Pressure (you want to use "absolute", aka "station pressure") while at the range, then create a trajectory card using <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-style: italic">
JBM Small Arms Ballistics</span></span>. I've played with the G1 and G7 drag functions, and settled on the G7. As long as you input accurate data into JBM, JBM is amazingly accurate. You should be within 1 click - possibly two, of dead-on.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I usually cant see my paper target holes past 300 yards so yes I have to check my targets. I would have to anyway, to cover the holes with tape, otherwise confusion sets in. When I get on target I shoot my steel a couple of times just for variety.</div></div>
Yes, paper is the best indicator because <span style="font-style: italic">it doesn't lie"</span>. However, I think you'll find that once you have your ocular correctly set and parallax eliminated you'll find that you will be able to see your group(s) on the steel to 600 yards or more under the right conditions.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Actually I could do what I'm doing just fine with no tic marks at all, just cross hairs. Probably some sort of heresy to say that, but its true. Still you gotta pic SOME tactical reticle. And having one and not using it is better than not having one and wanting it.</div></div>
You're right - you can spot and correct with nearly any scope, FFP or SFP using even just a crosshair - just spot the hit and estimate your hold. But having a graduated reticle, especially in a FFP scope makes life easier.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I don't think there is a range anywhere in Colorado that has movers, at least not that I have heard of. You need cables and stuff like that right?</div></div>
Never been shooting in Colorado, but yeah - you need a system of pulleys and cables or a track for the movers.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Eventually I hope to try a tactical match and see how I do. I hope the guys don't mind someone that might not be all that great and has equipment that might be different than theirs. Other than that I just hope to have fun at it. I'd just as soon the meet wasn't timed, I hate being rushed. I'm used to taking my time on all my shots, not hurrying.</div></div>
Try some different style comps to see if you like them, but all comps are timed. And depending upon the type of match and the shooters present there that day you may or may not be subjected to a bit of hazing. I shot a tactical match with a friend and we saw that the Match Director played favorites so we never went back.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Im buying a Kestrel so I am going to start using it for wind. Someone was telling me you can read the wind by looking at the mirage, I never knew that. Maybe someone can clue me in.</div></div>
Hopefully someone more more experienced will chime-in here. My wind-reading ability needs vast improvement. Being able to figure-out where too read is my biggest failing. You might try PM'ing <span style="font-style: italic">"Lindy"</span> here.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">For me it's mostly about learning new things and using new interesting equipment. Man is this sport EXPENSIVE! I also like to reload, really like it a LOT. Relaxes me.</div></div>
Hopefully, shooting is a longterm thing for you and more than just learning new things and using new interesting equipment. The sport can be a lot less inexpensive if you use lower end stuff, but much more enjoyable when you use better equipment such as high end glass, better ammo, and more accurate rifles. Reloading will save you thousands of dollars too.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sniperaviator</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One thing I'd like to do is shoot at above timberline (I'm in Colorado), if I can find a place. That would be pretty cool. I bet the bullets really fly flat up there!
I shoot just shoot targets, 100 to 1000 yards away and record my results. Hope to participate in a tactical match someday. Maybe Raton NRA one next year. See ya there! </div></div>
Whatever you do, have fun.
Keith
