Trolling or joking?
Or are you actually serious?
If I had Lowlight's budget I would have one too.
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School me on a do all AR15
- Thread starter Jackomason
- Start date
If I had Lowlight's budget I would have one too.
The skunks may be a joke to you but around here... skunk is life. They rape an pillage under my house in a way that makes Vikings look like teddy bears. I'd like a weapon light for this reason.
I have a yard light that gently lights up the back yard but the skunks come out on the dark side. I heard one come out and booked it to the gun and outside. As I was pieing this corner where the skunks come out and cross into the light I realized there was no skunk waiting in the light but he was actually at my feet. It just got worse from there.... skunk... is... life...
I really appreciate all the input. There does seem to be two trains of thought when it comes to the "quality" of the lower. Can someone flush this out for me or point me in a direction that I can read up on both sides?
Not joking, just expanding the definition to include those skunks with other than four feet...
I sorta put my faith in the MilSpec standard Lower, and also try to stick with Upper configurations that are closer to the original Stoner design. While I expected cycling issues with these combinations, I have yet to run into any. I figure start basic, add features/upgrades as one perceives the needs. Keep it simple, and unless there's something you deem essential that costs a bunch, stay as economical as you can. Be ruthless about need vs want. That's what I do, and it been working. No bets about the future, but I'm probably at my limit anyway; six lowers, eight uppers, If that doesn't do it, I'm in trouble.
I think in terms of capability and fun; my rifles are, hands down, hobbyist rifles. A pair of Stag Model 6 Super Varminters (one from the factory kit version) so my family can compete with each other at semi-precision distance shooting. A CMMG 16 Bull Wasp Upper, a 16" Lowest Dollar Slumdog Franken-Upper to learn the basics of upper constructing. The two similar Grendels as an affordable experiment in 6.5 semi-auto. A basic PA-10 308, and a 16" basic M4gery.
Personally, that's plenty, a ton even.
If I had my choice, I would do skunks as a "defense in depth" process; I.e. shoot 'em somewhere off the main compound whenever possible.
Greg
I sorta put my faith in the MilSpec standard Lower, and also try to stick with Upper configurations that are closer to the original Stoner design. While I expected cycling issues with these combinations, I have yet to run into any. I figure start basic, add features/upgrades as one perceives the needs. Keep it simple, and unless there's something you deem essential that costs a bunch, stay as economical as you can. Be ruthless about need vs want. That's what I do, and it been working. No bets about the future, but I'm probably at my limit anyway; six lowers, eight uppers, If that doesn't do it, I'm in trouble.
I think in terms of capability and fun; my rifles are, hands down, hobbyist rifles. A pair of Stag Model 6 Super Varminters (one from the factory kit version) so my family can compete with each other at semi-precision distance shooting. A CMMG 16 Bull Wasp Upper, a 16" Lowest Dollar Slumdog Franken-Upper to learn the basics of upper constructing. The two similar Grendels as an affordable experiment in 6.5 semi-auto. A basic PA-10 308, and a 16" basic M4gery.
Personally, that's plenty, a ton even.
If I had my choice, I would do skunks as a "defense in depth" process; I.e. shoot 'em somewhere off the main compound whenever possible.
Greg
Dude, I feel you on that one. Mine have optics. That’s all. Simple LPVO set ups. I’m not a door kicker or even a Cub Scout so all that add on stuff does zero to improve my shooting.
You can get a White Oak SPR complete upper with charging handle and bolt carrier group for $650. It will get you out to 500 with ease. Add a lower with a decent trigger and you're in business.
Trigger? Gas block? I found a roll pin this morning and started contemplating a new build, and I'm not totally sure which roll pin it is...
Then you can understand the pain my little unneeded parts pile is causing me.
I need to hide this stuff before a new rifle appears.
What's missing besides an upper receiver?
Have a V7 buffer tube and Triggertech trigger laying about. I'm about an 1/8th of the way there!
Have a V7 buffer tube and Triggertech trigger laying about. I'm about an 1/8th of the way there!
“A” new rifle? I count a minimum of three because that stock doesn’t go with either of the pistol grips.
Isn't it funny how the concept of one lower with multiple uppers goes straight to shit.... They always wind up becoming complete guns. It's addicting.
To be fair, the barrel is a smoothbore now. But just seeing a retired barrel is still enough to inspire a whole new build.What's missing besides an upper receiver?
Sumbitch! Your right! I can't think of any way that my wife could argue against such sound logic.
Well I ordered this M4e1 reciever set. Should be a good start for not too much $$$. Not sure if the tensioning set screw between the upper/lower is a gimmick but this set seems feature ritch for its price ($159).
Building it just seems like too much fun. Thanks for the help guys.
Building it just seems like too much fun. Thanks for the help guys.
Barnes rifles are top notch. Andrew is a step above. Not from NC but glad to finally see his name pop up here. The top line rifles are $1800 or so but as you said the basic package is $800 or so.
Give them a look:
www.usamade-ar15parts.com
Give them a look:
BPM – BPM – Barnes Precision Machine
www.usamade-ar15parts.com
Noveske or any 18” with a Vortex 1-8 and a Streamlight TLR-1 HPL with remote pressure switch. I tested the light out to 200 yards in total darkness and it was plenty bright for offhand shots. At 1x it runs pretty well as a CQBR or house gun.
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How do you like the 18" for getting in and out of vehicles? Jk. But really for things that go bump in the night is it pretty handy?
looks like the ontario
I do agree with him on the colt socom for the do all ar15 or in at least as much as a 'do all' is possible with the 5.56
personally, I'd rather a lmt mws with shorter barrel in 308
I say the lmt for personal as well as practical reasons. the barrel change option is nice. If not a desire or cost sensitive, I'd build a short barrel 308 using aero stuff and get a bsa heavy ss barrel. You can put that together for less than 600 and it will run or at least mine did. A nice cheap beater that ate everything and was plenty accurate. cheaper than the socom as well and far more effective
For an off the shelf factory rifle the BCM® RECCE-16/18 MCMR Precision is hard to beat for the price.
on a build it approach i have been eyeballing the
Wilson Combat Paul Howe 16" Fluted for a while now... comes in at right around 28oz if memory serves.
i have been thinking that you pair that barrel with a quality rifle and a good LPVO. I am loving the new Nightforce 1-8x
offerings and you have a very potent package.
Does anyone have any experience with that barrel all the information i can find is about the complete rifle.
on a build it approach i have been eyeballing the
Wilson Combat Paul Howe 16" Fluted for a while now... comes in at right around 28oz if memory serves.
i have been thinking that you pair that barrel with a quality rifle and a good LPVO. I am loving the new Nightforce 1-8x
offerings and you have a very potent package.
Does anyone have any experience with that barrel all the information i can find is about the complete rifle.
I've been doing a lot of research and think that my base rifle will end up very close to the Aero M4e1 16" rifle but I'll have some nicer bits thrown in.. I think it's a good start and dont see too many places where its lacking. If I do I'll change it.
I don't think that you can go wrong with a 16" or 18" barrel from a reputable brand, a decent quality trigger that you like, match ammo, and a capable 1-8x LPVO as many have said here. I only prefer 16" barrels over 14.5" because 16" barrels don't require the muzzle device to be pinned and welded on rifle lowers. 18" barrels do seem to be a real sweet-spot, performance-wise though for the AR when it comes to longer range shooting.
My M4gery:
AR Stoner Upper
PSA Lower
These^ two match up very nicely. Lightweight 1.7lb M4 pattern 16" length, 1:7" twist barrel.
PSA Nickel Boron Two Stage Trigger
AR Stoner Extended Bolt Catch
Nikon P Series Mounts
Angled Folding BUIS
AR SPARC II Red Dot Sight
or;
Bushnell AR Drop Zone 223 BDC Reticle Scope
Magpul PMAG Magazines
Limbsaver Recoil Pad
The recoil Pad allows quicker reacquisition of the sight picture. You may want to add a muzzle brake to add to this plan.
I always cringe when I see the term truck gun. They are brutal on optics. Something like this might help.
The two piece optic mounts are on mine because I use a Brass Catcher, and one piece mounts make the catcher mounting block harder to locate properly.
For me, one of the most important features is affordability.
Maybe most important; ammo:
Greg
AR Stoner Upper
PSA Lower
These^ two match up very nicely. Lightweight 1.7lb M4 pattern 16" length, 1:7" twist barrel.
PSA Nickel Boron Two Stage Trigger
AR Stoner Extended Bolt Catch
Nikon P Series Mounts
Angled Folding BUIS
AR SPARC II Red Dot Sight
or;
Bushnell AR Drop Zone 223 BDC Reticle Scope
Magpul PMAG Magazines
Limbsaver Recoil Pad
The recoil Pad allows quicker reacquisition of the sight picture. You may want to add a muzzle brake to add to this plan.
I always cringe when I see the term truck gun. They are brutal on optics. Something like this might help.
The two piece optic mounts are on mine because I use a Brass Catcher, and one piece mounts make the catcher mounting block harder to locate properly.
For me, one of the most important features is affordability.
Maybe most important; ammo:
Greg
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Updating from an earlier post in this topic, it looks like there my be a handloading workaround for the Fusion MSR drought.
It seems pretty likely that the bullets used in the load are the Speer Gold Dots. The 6.5 Grendels will be tested with the Speer 120gr Gold Dot.
I'm doing all of my testing with W748 since published loads exist for it with most bullet weights, and some Internet speculation suggests this powder, or something very much like it, may be what's being used for some of the more popular Grendel factory loadings.
The 120 Gold Dots will also be eventually tested in the .260 Remington.
There will also be testing using the .308/168gr Gold Dot as an SMK substitute in a 168SMK clone load.
Further testing will be done with Lehigh Defense 6.5 and 308 solid match bullets.
Greg
It seems pretty likely that the bullets used in the load are the Speer Gold Dots. The 6.5 Grendels will be tested with the Speer 120gr Gold Dot.
I'm doing all of my testing with W748 since published loads exist for it with most bullet weights, and some Internet speculation suggests this powder, or something very much like it, may be what's being used for some of the more popular Grendel factory loadings.
The 120 Gold Dots will also be eventually tested in the .260 Remington.
There will also be testing using the .308/168gr Gold Dot as an SMK substitute in a 168SMK clone load.
Further testing will be done with Lehigh Defense 6.5 and 308 solid match bullets.
Greg
It might be worth looking into a Larue Ultimate upper kit. Maybe even go 6.5 grendel instead of 5.56.
They are like $991 with a Larue billet lower.
They are like $991 with a Larue billet lower.
