Scope adjustment while bore sighting

[Amanda4461]

Here is my dumbass question regarding scopes:
On an AR15, after mounting a new scope and getting eye relief correct and reticle level, I pick a point on the wall using the lowest power on the scope. In this case, I used a bullseye target with a 1.5” red dot to aim at. The scope had been adjusted to center of available windage and elevation. With the bore centered on the target’s red dot, I looked at the reticle, to find it up above the target paper and far to the left. There wasn’t enough adjustment left in the scope to get anywhere near the target dot. I suspect that the scope has been damaged. Do you agree, or am I the knucklehead I suspect I am?
Hit me with your rhythm stick?

 

[Lowlight]

No,

What you are dealing within a room is mechanical offset, the scope height over bore, so you don't match the two, you put the reticle at the correct location over the bore.

There is always an offset of sorts to get the scope zeroed, but remember super close it takes a lot more movement in the turrets to see it.

You have to set them up with the Mechanical Offset in place

 

[Supersubes]

Are you sure it’s on straight? Which ran out of adjustment, the windage or elevation?

 

[Amanda4461]

It is on straight and level. I took an older scope out of a set of Badger Ordnance rings, attached to the AR, and put the new scope in its place. The older scope is a 3.5x - 10x. New scope is 4x -14x. The older scope is zeroed at 150 yards. Looking through the bore, it too has the bore poi offset from the reticle poi, but nothing like the new scope. The new scope runs out of windage and elevation. I wondered if being only 25 feet away from the target made a large difference, but I don’t want the neighbors to call up Beto and red flag my ass. I’ll take it to the range tomorrow and see if it gets on paper. I should probably just buy a collimator.

 

[Shootnwrench]

Get something the size of a gallon paint can, preferably bright color, hang it at about 30yds, through a window and you can stay inside.

Pull the upper, remove the bcg. Brace the upper well and visually look down the bore and line up the the bore as perfectly as you can looking at the object at 30yds.

Dont move the upper.

Look through the scope and then dial the reticle to the center of the object you hung. I like to favor just below center of the object with the crosshairs.

Revisual check down the bore and the crosshairs as needed.

Take to the range.

Do it well enough and you’ll be on paper at 100.

 

[Amanda4461]

Shootnwrench,
Your idea worked just fine from 50 yards. First shot at 100 yards required both windage and elevation change, but zero’d just fine. I was way too close in a 20’ room. This is my first Mil-Dot scope, so after the zero, I dropped down one mil and aiming at the X, fired one round. Then dropped one more mil and fired one shot. First shot was approximately 3.5” from the X, and second shot was approximately 7” from the X. I assume that this result is desired and normal. I took shots at the 200 yard plates using the first Mil-Dot below the crosshairs, scored a hit. Took a shot at the 325 yard plate using the second Mil-Dot and scored a hit. No such luck with the 400 yard plate
This former service rifle shooter has a lot to learn about mils and ranging, but it is a fun endeavor. I am thinking that I may find a Labradar useful for determining the trajectory of my load. I found out that my old Compass Lake 7-twist barrel would put 4 rounds into a ragged 1/2” hole, with my yanked 5th shot keeping the group at 3/4”. My misses are my fault only.
Thanks for everyone’s advise!
Amanda