Rifle Scopes Scope advice on eye relief on Vortex Razor AMG 6-24x50 focus at different yard sticks, with FFP

[HoundTracker]

Hello all!
I'm looking to purchase a Vortex Razor HD AMG 6-24x50 and my vision is not so great anymore since I have got ASTIGMATISM issues now. This condition causes me to have blurry vision with red for some reason. I have never even looked thru a FFP scope in my life and nobody hardly has this type scope in the stores for someone to look through. I can only imagine what my eyes will be able to see with this kind of scope and all I hear about it is the clarity of these scopes but never about the glasses someone is wearing as they are looking. I plan to eventually have a much better gun to put this beast on, but for now (are you sitting down?) it is going to be as big as the pee shooter single barrel 243 New England Handy rifle that this scope will be sitting on..... Yeah the scope will be a beast on this single shot gun. Can't nobody say I didn't get a good scope, right. Ha.. Okay, so I'm gonna have good reason to shoot for a better gun. I have plans of better guns of higher caliber but the placing of that bullet is what matters to me the most. I got a gun, but I need a scope. This is another reason for this scope is being able to fine tune bullet placement. I never had a good scope that I could fine tune to hit the bulls eye. One click would take it too far to the right while one click other way took it to far to the left. My vision gets blurry the further away the yards get. I would rather not have to put my glasses on to shoot the target or animal no matter how close or far away it is from me. My glasses fog up in the cold months, and when it's raining, so I can't see when I'm trying to shoot with them on. If I set the eye relief to be clear on the SFP scope at 200 yds. @8x, will it still be clear 50 yds. @6x and the same clearness 400 yds. @24x. What can I expect 800-1000 yds. @24x without making eye relief adjustments? Will the clarity change at all from the scope to the target? I am interested in being able to see during all times of the day, sunny, cloudy, raining, from early dawn to dusk dark conditions... LOW LIGHT very important! Thanks for all your help!

 

[stello1001]

I'm not exactly sure you understand what eye relief is. By what you say, I think maybe you are referring to parallax adjustment as to whether or not it will be clear for You on 8x magnification at 200 yards, 50 yards on 6x mag, etc.

Eye relief normally means how far away your eye is from the actual glass or the scope itself and how picky it is of your eye placement so you can get a full picture. This really does not pertain much to how far away you are aiming at something with your scope whether it is 50 yards or 9 miles.

Your parallax adjustment knob has more to do with how clear an image looks to the human eye and the distance the scope is being aimed at usually matters in this. To be more specific, the parallax adjustment knob is there for you to make adjustments to take out any and all parallax. It does so by putting the image being portrayed to you within the scope on the same focal plane as your reticle (always be sure to have your diopter or reticle adjusted perfectly for your eyesight) so that your eye does not have to fight trying to focus on both the reticle and the image. If both of these are on the same focal plane, you will have a crisp view of your image and the reticle will be sharp, this will make it very easy on the eye. If one of those two, or both, are not adjusted properly, your eye will want to focus on one and the other will or could become somewhat blurry. Normally, the parallax adjustment knob will have to be tweaked as you aim at various distances. However, the less magnification you have, the less picky the scope will be with the parallax. So for example, if you have the scope on 24x and are aiming at something 50 yards away, you'll probably have to adjust parallax in order to aim at something 250 yards away while on 24x. However, if you are on 6x aiming at something 50 yards away, you may find that scope may not need as much adjustment for something 250 yards while on 6x. This all comes down to how finicky a scope's parallax adjustment is. Some scopes require a lot of tweaking in order to be completely parallax free while other are pretty much "set it once and leave it" so it's not something that all scopes will behave in the same exact manner.

Im sure this probably sounds like a lot and possibly very complicated, but I can assure you it's not that bad. Hopefully the dark lord of optics can come in here and explain it better than I can or correct me on anything, if for some reason I am off on any details. All in all, you should find that scope a pleasure to use and you should be able to get everything set up properly.

 

[HoundTracker]

Hello stello1001 and thank you for your help on some of what I now maybe understand. So my eye relief sounds like the distance placement of how I set the scope up on the scope brackets as to how close it is set to my eye itself then, before I torque the set screws to hold the scope in place. So that may mean I will have to get a different style of scope mount as well so that i will be able to slide the scope it's self farther back on the gun or push it further down the barrel. So on my crossbow scope I found out I can turn the end cap at my eye glass and it focus like my binoculars to clear up one eye and then once I get that one set the middle knob adjustment adjusts the other eye to match and auto focus from that point. Would that parallax adjustment be like the same thing as the focusing point of the binoculars? I never had a scope to be able to do that. Been over 20 years since I had to buy a scope. So then the parallax adjustment is also for a focusing point? So do you think I will have to readjust either one of those during different magnifying ranges? I have Astigmatism issues as well and have a problem with the color of red being blurry. I have a choice of green or red illumination in my crossbow scope and green works best for me, so do you think with this scope I will be able to see the red illumination clear?

 

[stello1001]

Hello stello1001 and thank you for your help on some of what I now maybe understand. So my eye relief sounds like the distance placement of how I set the scope up on the scope brackets as to how close it is set to my eye itself then, before I torque the set screws to hold the scope in place. So on my crossbow scope I found out I can turn the end cap at my eye and it focus like my binoculars to clear up one eye and then once I get that one set the middle knob adjustment adjusts the other eye to match and auto focus from that point. I never had a scope to be able to do that. Been over 20 years since I had to buy a scope. So then the parallax adjustment is also for a focusing point? So do you think I will have to readjust either one of those during different magnifying ranges? I have Astigmatism issues as well and have a problem with the color of red being blurry. I have a choice of green or red illumination in my crossbow scope and green works best for me, so do you think with this scope I will be able to see the red illumination clear?

Yes, the eye relief is the distance placement of the scope from your eye. To get a good eye relief means to have the scope place not too far frontwards and not too far backwards so that you are able to get a full image through the scope.

The diopter adjustment is the one that makes your reticle focus and stay sharp.
You'll want to adjust this by turning up the magnification on the scope to max and setting your parallax adjustment to infinity.
Then, you'll want to aim the scope at a white wall or the sky.
Next, you'll want to look through the scope while going through the diopter's adjustment ring throughout its entire range of adjustment. However, as you are adjusting, you must look at the reticle for maybe no longer than a second and then looking away or closing your eye, back and forth. The idea is, that if you stay constantly looking into the reticle, the human eye will adjust and make the reticle look sharp and focused while in reality it may not. By not staring at it constantly, you do not allow the eye to make the reticle look focused. This is why one must look back and forth through the scope to the reticle and then out of it until you notice your reticle is finally in sharp focus. This adjustment will be good from now and you should be able to leave it as is without having to make any further changes. This is assuming your eyesight does not change.

The parallax adjustment however, is the one that requires change or tweaking as one starts to observe different things at varying distances. The scope will have markings indicating where to set the knob for 100 yards, 200 yards, etc. However, these are only there to give you a general idea. In order to be really precise with removing parallax from the image, one should test for it and not just trust the labeling. Normally, people tend to set the knob where the image is the clearest. While scopes SHOULD be completely parallax free when the image becomes crystal clear, the best way to do this is differently. You should set the scoped rifle in a position where it will not move at all and wiggle your eye behind the scope a little bit up, down, left, and right. If you notice the reticle moved and deviated from it's original point of aim, then your scope is not yet parallax free. You will have to tweak some more until you notice you can move your eye around without the reticle moving off target or shift position.

Getting a proper cheek weld should put your eye dead center of the scope tube. By being dead center, even if you are not fully and completely in a parallax free adjustment on your knob, your aim will still be true. No matter how off your parallax adjustment is, by being dead center, your reticle will aim dead straight. However, the idea is that you still want to be sure you dialed out any parallax because we can not always be 100% perfect with our head, eye placement, or cheek weld.

As far as your astigmatism goes, I really cannot tell you what the red illuminated reticle will look like to you or if it might appear blurry. I do not have that condition and therefore cannot speak on that.

 

[patriot07]

No offense at all, but this new in the game, I'd probably consider a more inexpensive scope to begin your journey. Before spending $2k+, I think you should really have a good idea of what you want in a scope and know that the features and design tradeoffs made in the scope you're buying are in alignment with the uses and requirements you're putting on the scope.

The AMG is an excellent scope for sure, but there are lots of great options and they all have different pros/cons to consider.

Or buy it from some place that understands your situation and will at least offer you credit in return towards something else if it's not what you're looking for. We have multiple vendors on this forum that I believe would be willing to work with you to get you something that is right for your shooting needs and your optical requirements.