I'm working to progress from Kentucky Windage estimations to real calculated scope adjustments. Having read numerous posts here, please let me know if I understand the goal and the procedure correctly.
Part 1
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The immediate goal is to see if your scope tracks correctly. That is, if it's an MOA scope, that X number of clicks moves the crosshairs the correct amount. For instance, with 1/4-MOA adjustments, 8 clicks should move the crosshairs 2 inches at 100 yards, or 4 inches at 200 yards.
To do this, you can make the rifle/scope combination rigid, or remove the scope and clamp it such that it won't move. Then, with a grid target at exactly 100 yards, see what happens when you adjust the elevation and windage. This can be done in your back yard.
The percentage difference between what you expected and what you observe will be applied to your scope setting when actually shooting. eg: It might take 5 clicks to move the crosshairs 4 inches at, say, 400 yards.
Question 1: Should you use graph paper that shows finer graduations than just every inch?
Question 2: Is there a particular scope setting at which you should do start? That is, should the windage and elevation adjustments be at their midpoints?
Question 3: Should this be done at the lowest power setting, the highest, in between, or several power settings?
Question 4: Is the distance measured from the front of the scope or from the adjustment turrets? Or does the 2 or 3 inches difference matter in real life?
Part 2
------
Shoot to verify that the calculated number of clicks moves your group the calculated distance.
Question 5: Do you do this verification at 100 yards, or 200, or ...?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Richard
Part 1
------
The immediate goal is to see if your scope tracks correctly. That is, if it's an MOA scope, that X number of clicks moves the crosshairs the correct amount. For instance, with 1/4-MOA adjustments, 8 clicks should move the crosshairs 2 inches at 100 yards, or 4 inches at 200 yards.
To do this, you can make the rifle/scope combination rigid, or remove the scope and clamp it such that it won't move. Then, with a grid target at exactly 100 yards, see what happens when you adjust the elevation and windage. This can be done in your back yard.
The percentage difference between what you expected and what you observe will be applied to your scope setting when actually shooting. eg: It might take 5 clicks to move the crosshairs 4 inches at, say, 400 yards.
Question 1: Should you use graph paper that shows finer graduations than just every inch?
Question 2: Is there a particular scope setting at which you should do start? That is, should the windage and elevation adjustments be at their midpoints?
Question 3: Should this be done at the lowest power setting, the highest, in between, or several power settings?
Question 4: Is the distance measured from the front of the scope or from the adjustment turrets? Or does the 2 or 3 inches difference matter in real life?
Part 2
------
Shoot to verify that the calculated number of clicks moves your group the calculated distance.
Question 5: Do you do this verification at 100 yards, or 200, or ...?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Richard