Rifle Scopes Scope Mount And Zeroing Recommendations Please

[Canadiangunuser]

Good Day from Canada- new here but have been lurking for quite some time. So, complex question- looking to draw from your experience for a recommendation. The following list of items will not change- it's what I have and can't afford new stuff right now, other than the mount (question 1). ***Note- I am not new to firing at "longer" ranges, just to the current gear. I realize that the shooter is now the limiting factor- not the equipment, when I learned to shoot- that was not always the case.***

Scope- Steiner T5Xi 3-15x50 SCR mil reticle
Rifle 1- Tikka T3X in 30-06 (has a pic rail already mounted) Also- is my hunting rifle.
Rifle 2- Ar-10 style .308/7.62x51
Rifle 3- Robinson XCR-L, 5.56mm/7.62x39/6.8 SPC

Scenario- the optic will be used primarily on the .30-06 and .308. Majority will be relatively short distances, but I would like the ability to push to 1000m if it becomes available. The ammunition is capable of it (I am fully aware of ammunition variations by weight, BC etc). As well, I would like the option to throw it on the XCR as it is my only optic. I have always fired those 3 calibres with irons, but realizing that appropriate mounts exist it would be foolish not to have the option. Not looking to push those to 1000m, but will muck about with whatever ranges I can get if I have the opportunity. I realize these are not 1/2 MOA rifles- I am realistic.

Questions:
1. The optic has about 23mils of total elevation- I plan to zero at 100m (see more in question 3), should I be looking at a 20MOA mount? Doing the math (with various cartridges), 23mils seems fine for just about everything I have there, but should I have the option to spend lots of time shooting at 600+, I don't want to be at the edge of mechanical adjustment all the time. Conversely, I do not want to have a mount that requires the optic to just barely dial down to 100.

2. Mount recommendations? I am quite set on QD- I don't like the idea of a torque wrench being a necessity (I often travel to shoot, and a forgotten/lost/broken wrench leaves me with an optic on one rifle only). Not looking to break the bank, perfectly happy to buy used- but up here in Canada, this shit is far more expensive than prices in the US. I usually take a few rifles when I go to shoot, so the intent (once it's all DOPEd) is to swap, dial- and shoot.

3. My math says that I should be zeroing at 100m with the flattest .30-06 that I plan to shoot- am I correct? This is my hunting rifle, so that is the one I plan to zero with.
The optic will be zeroed for that one rifle, and then everything else will be shot with adjustments from there. I will get some "try" DOPE and then gather data. I am not shooting any precision competition- just love to shoot. I don't have time/money to get stuck in as a full PRS competitor- too many other expensive hobbies.

Thank you for any recommendations you make.

 

[M8541Reaper]

1. Go with the 20MOA.

2. Buy a set of Fix It Sticks. Your rifle should never go anywhere without the tools to keep it running. Fix It Stick kits are small and light enough to fit in any pouch or pocket. If you aren’t able to confirm or keep your system torqued to spec, then you have no consistency...and there’s zero point to expect measurable results.

3. Zero your optic at 100 on the primary rifle and note that in your data book. Then place it on the other rifles, zero each, observe the offsets from the primary’s zero, and place that data in the respective books. You can also paint marker each of the offsets on the scope or rifles (so the info is always with you...if you aren’t going to memorize it). After you do this, test the repeatability of your mount. If you skimp on the mount, which you shouldn’t do, you’re likely to have issues with zero repeatability, which will make your life hell when you swap between systems. If you get a quality set of rings or 1-piece mount, you gain repeatability with your torque tools and from the quality mount itself. Obviously you know this, but I’m reiterating the benefit of a torque kit over QD. If you do go QD, don’t buy garbage (I think there are a few recent threads about QDs that might be worth checking out).

Best of luck ?

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

1. Go with a 20moa base/mount. Your scope may have 23 mils of elevation, but if you're running a zero moa mount/base, you're giving up half of that because of where the rifle and scope will actually be zeroed. (It may vary a bit one way or the other)

2. What if the rings come loose on the mount? You'll still need tools to tighten them. As long as you're torqued the same every time, theoretically, you should have much of a POI shift. I 2nd a set of fix it sticks. Best $100 I've spent in a while.

 

[B_w.]

Height over bore is going to suck between the Tikka and a AR style semi. Do you have enough adjustment in your cheek piece to get on it? I would go for the 20moa.

 

[Canadiangunuser]

I should have mentioned that I was talking about a single piece "unimount" or "unitized mount" depending on the company that makes it. I have individual rings but that seems like one more point of failure to me, especially when moving the optic.

 

[Canadiangunuser]

Height over bore is going to suck between the Tikka and a AR style semi. Do you have enough adjustment in your cheek piece to get on it? I would go for the 20moa.

That is a concern, but I have no issues building up- under my Triad Tactical stock pack, or just with vetwrap.
I am guessing I will have to go 1.5" for ring/mount height.

Fix it sticks have been on and off my list based on various recommendations- looks like I will put them back on. I do generally have a Wheeler FAT wrench with me, just want to have an option in case that ir fix it sticks aren't with me.

 

[flyer]

Height over bore is going to suck between the Tikka and a AR style semi. Do you have enough adjustment in your cheek piece to get on it? I would go for the 20moa.

This.

Almost all of the QD mounts are set up for AR height except Bobro makes one that is nice and low designed for a Mini14 or something. I'm not sure if it can be bought with 34mm rings but my 30mm version has clearance issues under the turret bell, with some scopes it just won't work.

If you can put a PRI riser rail on your AR10, you might have something that will be ok on both if your scope fits.

In my opinion, put the Steiner on your Tikka, buy a cheap Bushnell Forge or something similar for your AR10 and use irons on your XCR-L. The money will be close to the same as buying a QD mount and two risers but you won't have to be zeroing your rifles every time you swap.

QD swapping an expensive scope on to multiple rifles is a nice dream but usually doesn't work out.

 

[Canadiangunuser]

So I came here for advice- and I decided to take it. Went with a Nightforce 20 MOA 1.44" unimount. Not a QD (found this used for a good price for Canada). I guess my Wheeler FAT wrench is just part of the range bag now. Surprisingly, I found this very same decision on an older thread about mounting the same optic on an AR-10.
I will update as it goes along for the info of others.
Thanks all!