Semi Auto Rifle Lubricants

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Why1504

Full Member
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Jul 4, 2011
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Southeast US
#1
I am somewhat new to the black rifle game. I got my first modern Sporting rifle in 2008. I now have a collection. It has quickly grown to be my favorite gun period. When I first got a black rifle, I used a light gun oil on it. I don't remember what but quickly changed to CLP but I don't remember the brand. Since then I have tried a list of modern lubricants from motor oil to Frog Lube. Generally with ok to poor result. Recently in another thread, George Garner professed a preference for TriFlow, a product I have used that gummed up 2 revolvers and I have not been successful in removing the gum on these revolvers. After going full circle, I am back on CLP but today think it may be too thick. After discussing this with my shooting partner, our next stop is ATF. Synthetic, with high heat resistance and thin to avoid any stickyness in the lube. Now, a light oil of the trigger is good, what I am talking about is the BCG and it's associated contact points. Oh and I will continue to use frog lube on the bolt areas which collect carbon as it does a great job of stopping the carbon build up.

Anyway, I would love to hear opinions of others especially with lots of experience. I also invite George to post on why he likes TriFlow, and the best ways to use it on a GAP. If others are using TriFlow please tell us how it works for you and why you like it.

Thanks!!!!
 
#6
I've used SLIP 2000 for a long time and like it much. I've heard great things about FireClean as well and plan to try that too. With an AR in my experience it generally works best to keep them wet/well lubed.
 
#10
With well broken in guns I don't know that it matters much from a lubrication standpoint but some lubes clean up easier than others. But with new, tight guns I think it does matter, and that is where my concern lies.
 
#11
Slip 2000 is nice, but it attracts carbon and dirt.

My favorite is Remington Drilube with Teflon. Yes, the $5 spray bottle you get from Wal-Mart. Fully degrease your bcg and inside of your upper, apply the drilube and let it dry for a few hours. Apply a second coat and let that dry as well. The next day you will have a dry bcg that is slick to the touch, a little like NP3 or NiB coating. I am not a 500rd a day ammo blaster, but I've gone through 250-300 rounds with a "dry" bcg (only drilube'd) without any fte/ftf. Afterwards it still feels slick and cleans up easy as well. I'd give it a shot.
 
#12
Iv been using tetra gun lube for years It does a fantastic job. It's ambient operating temps are something like -160 degrees up to 175.
the seizure point in ft lb is crazy high compared to other lubes. They(tetra company) say using it to treat your barrel will give you more fps and tighter groups.....I don't know about that stuff though just spreading propaganda.

I can tell you I very lightly covered a shotgun with it and left it in my old drafty truck all winter. No case or nutten. At the end of winter not one rust spot and still worked perfect. Like I cleaned her yesterday.
 
#13
You can probably see that a lot of different lubes work for different people. Every 6-12 months there is some brand new MIRACLE GUN LUBE that some of us try out, and most who try it say it's great regardless of whether it is really at all different. You don't always need the latest greatest MIRACLE GUN LUBE to have your gun working.

That said, I have personally used Rem Oil, CLP, FP-10, Hoppes Elite gun oil, SLIP2000 both regular and EWL, Froglube both paste and liquid, and Weaponshield liquid. My current favorite is Weaponshield - but all of them work just fine. Froglube is great in warmer weather and when it was applied within the last 1-3 months. After a while it dries out and while it still works, doesn't work as well. In really cold weather it gets thicker, and depending on the gun and the cold, may be fine or problematic. I have not tried Fireclean, though it seems to get good reviews. I would pick almost anything listed (not Rem Oil) and just stick with it, and not mix lubricants in any place where they might touch each other and turn your lubrication into a chemistry experiment.
 
#17
Heaven knows I've got a collection of the "newest and greatest" lubes and cleaners. Taking into consideration that I clean and re-lube my firearms after a weekend at the range or out in the field, this is what I've settled on:

High-quality grease (from Wilson's -- can't remember the exact name) on my M1 and M2 Carbines, M1 Garand, M1A, and bolt action bolts.

A fairly sloppy amount of CLP on my AR-15s, AR-10, 1911s, Lugers, etc.

Snake Oil (from Dillon) on hammers and sears.

These all work just fine *for how and where I shoot, and clean.* I'll be happy to switch when someone comes up with compelling proof that there's a better lube.

Richard
 
#20
SWThomas said:
Mobil 1 5W-20 that I have left over after an oil change. Works great in all temperatures.
Click to expand...

I've been using "Motor Oil" on my firearms since before they introduced Multi-Grade oils. Used a lot of it that came in an OD colored can and it was given to me for free. Also matched everything I wore at the time too :).

The only concession I've made for my AR's is CLP. A aerosol can for my range bag and a small flip top bottle for "the field". There are magic formulas coming out every day, as well as other magic formulas disappearing from the market. What I chuckle about most is the fact that they all are about the same with a different color, scent, or "secret ingredient".

After 60 years of shooting a huge variety of firearms they all work just fine with the "drippins'" from the bottle I filled my truck with (currently 5W-30 Synthetic). I have a 70 year old rifle that has all it's original parts and has had nothing but motor oil used on it's moving parts. It's has the $h!t shot out of it and it's in as good condition as when it was "born" in 1943.
 
#22
I am a bit anal so my process is

I begin with Hoppes #9 to get the copper out of the bore. I think my dad used it as well. Been around for a long time. I am careful to use it sparingly as I don't want it getting on the plastic parts. However, I don't think it would be harmful.

I follow that with M-Pro 7 cleaner o get rid of any final traces of the Hoppes out of the barrel and to get all of the powder residue and gunk off of the various parts. I follow that with a small amount of M-Pro 7 gun oil LPX. This is a lubricant only not a CLP. I stay away from anything labelled CLP as it is a cleaner-lubricant. I have found these type of products are not as good as standalone cleaners and lubricants.

I have used M-Pro products for a long time with excellent results in all environments on all of my SA rifles.

Best regards,
 
#23
Engine oil, for me it's in the Castrol 5w30 flavor. If it can withstand the environment of a car engine, I think a gun will be fine. I'll use Shooter's Choice if I'm patching out the barrel.
 
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#27
I use Lubriplate FMO350AW. Motor oil will work fine too but this stuff is a food grade lubricant so it's an added bonus to be non toxic. I think I paid $30 for a gallon. It's crazy to pay $15 for 4 oz of lube that does nothing better than motor oil, ATF or lubriplate. I don't have to handle it like it is liquid gold either. The 350aw has been outstanding.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#29
I switched to Fireclean about two months ago and think it's nothing short of great. I've used in on my freshly built AR and my handguns. Makes things run slick as snot and clean up is a breeze. Even let a few friends run it on their guns and they seem impressed as well.
 
#34
WD40 soak for most of rifle exterior, scrub with issue tooth brush, bolt and carrier go into RCBS ultrasonic cleaner, run foam down down the barrel, scrub with nylon bore brush, patch til perfectly clean, run Mobil 1 lube on patch, then dry patch til perfect clean and dry, wipe whole rifle down with old diaper (100% cotton), compressed air on BCG to remove all water, soak in wd 40 to displace any water, blow with compressed air again, soak BCG in 0-20 Mobil 1, on M1A/Bolt rifles is use Mobil 1 syn grease on bolt slides, lighter fluid soak on all triggers. If I could get a supply of it I would use Jet A furl to clean the gun instead of WD 40.

Mobil 1 0-20W engine oil
Mobil 1 Syn Grease
 
#35
ArmyJerry said:
WD40 soak for most of rifle exterior, scrub with issue tooth brush, bolt and carrier go into RCBS ultrasonic cleaner, run foam down down the barrel, scrub with nylon bore brush, patch til perfectly clean, run Mobil 1 lube on patch, then dry patch til perfect clean and dry, wipe whole rifle down with old diaper (100% cotton), compressed air on BCG to remove all water, soak in wd 40 to displace any water, blow with compressed air again, soak BCG in 0-20 Mobil 1, on M1A/Bolt rifles is use Mobil 1 syn grease on bolt slides, lighter fluid soak on all triggers. If I could get a supply of it I would use Jet A furl to clean the gun instead of WD 40.

Mobil 1 0-20W engine oil
Mobil 1 Syn Grease
Click to expand...

You foam your ported barrel? I figured the foam would expand into the gas tube. No issues?
 
#36
Yes I do, the M1A I turn the rifle upside down on the rifle rest to minimize he foam leakage into the port, the AR's I keep upright. No issue. I do soak heavily with WD 40 and brush every part after the foam cleaning though. I dont over brush the bore, just use nylon brush and patches, never use metal brushes at all.
 
#37
lte82 said:
From an engineering standpoint, motor oil is a terrible lubricant for a bolt carrier. =)
Click to expand...


gosh, it seems to be great for pistons that move back and forth thousands of times per minute in an engine and do so for hour after hour, week after week, and year after year.

I'll have to tell all my AR's that the "Engineers" don't think MO is good for them. One of them is over 30 years old and has many, many, thousands of rounds through it. Hasn't failed yet in any way shape or from. Ditto for the two others that a re a few years younger. They've never seen anything but Motor Oil or CLP.

As for foaming gas ported barrels, most cans of foam cleaner say "Don't". No worries for me as I only use that stuff on my Bolt Actions.
 
#38
Deadshot2 said:
gosh, it seems to be great for pistons that move back and forth thousands of times per minute in an engine and do so for hour after hour, week after week, and year after year.

I'll have to tell all my AR's that the "Engineers" don't think MO is good for them. One of them is over 30 years old and has many, many, thousands of rounds through it. Hasn't failed yet in any way shape or from. Ditto for the two others that a re a few years younger. They've never seen anything but Motor Oil or CLP.

As for foaming gas ported barrels, most cans of foam cleaner say "Don't". No worries for me as I only use that stuff on my Bolt Actions.
Click to expand...

Hey if you want to use a lubricant that attracts carbon and dirt, be my guest. If you want to use it on your motorcycle chains, hey, more power to you. It will "work", but far far away from good in any environment other than a clean one.

You might want to check out PTFE / HBN based lubricants. It's in the same vein as NiB / NP3 coatings, and really worth looking into.
 
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#40
lte82 said:
Slip 2000 is nice, but it attracts carbon and dirt.

My favorite is Remington Drilube with Teflon. Yes, the $5 spray bottle you get from Wal-Mart. Fully degrease your bcg and inside of your upper, apply the drilube and let it dry for a few hours. Apply a second coat and let that dry as well. The next day you will have a dry bcg that is slick to the touch, a little like NP3 or NiB coating. I am not a 500rd a day ammo blaster, but I've gone through 250-300 rounds with a "dry" bcg (only drilube'd) without any fte/ftf. Afterwards it still feels slick and cleans up easy as well. I'd give it a shot.
Click to expand...

My guess this stuff is very similar to Hornadys Gun cleaner and dry lube. I read through this thread the other day and my mind has drifted to thoughts of using this method. The dry lube sounds like it could work real well.

Anybody have any down sides to using dry lube such as these?
 
#41
I have been using Slip2000 products since 2008 on my patrol rifle and service pistol. Specifically EWL on the rifle and Slip2000 on the pistol. It works for me and I have had no lube-related malfunctions with either platform. It does not seem to attract carbon but does make it easier to wipe it off. While others may have success with motor oil, transmission fluid, etc., I believe in using lubricants specific for your intended purpose. SLIP2000 is synthetic and as far as I know contains no carcinogens, a big plus for me. Look on the motor oil containers as most warn about some ingredients may cause cancer. I consider that a "clue".

If what you are using works for you, have at it/rock on. As an aside, in the past I had questions regarding SLIP2000. I called and the person who answered the telephone (after hours) was Greg Conner, the owner/CEO. He was very personable, knowledgeable and actually took time to answer my questions. Ask youself when was the last time you called a company and got to speak with the head honcho. The company is a great supporter of MIL/LE also.

Just my 2 cents. Others may know more though.

Joe
 
#42
Just got this in an Email, If you're interested in trying FireClean nows a good time, they are offering free shipping at the moment. The coupon code for free shipping on shop.cleanergun.com is GWBD. Just enter it after the billing and shipping address and the shipping fees are waived.
 
#43
I tried FL and wanted it to work. The instructions make it sound like a Smart Lube. During application "When the surface is warmed, the rate of FrogLube absorption is increased" but when you are shooting FL knows it is supposed to "wick(s) to the surface when warmed"

I had issues in cold weather with a G34, 1911, and a .223 AR. Also after the 1911 sat in a dresser drawer untouched for a summer it smelled a bit rancid. Not even a hint of mint.


I started using FL and so far it has been idiot proof for me and I have had no issues yet.
 
#45
Gunbutter.

SMI Lower Parts Kit | Gun Butter

I agree it's a silly name. Engineers came up with it.

These products were really developed by a couple of rogue Boeing engineers - also 3-Gun shooters - who had easy access to Boeing's test facilities to include spectrographic analysis equipment. They learned that most gun lubes out there are just cheap single weight motor oil with a splash of synthetic and a little color.

Probably more true scientific research went into this family of gun lubes than any other on the market. They now sell it in 55 gallon drums to Uncle Sam. No, I don't know what you do with 55 gallons of it.

How a lube works when really super hot is key in gas guns. This stuff won't blow off or burn up.

When building a new upper, the inside of the upper receiver and every surface on the bolt carrier group and charging handle gets a coat of Gunbutter. For clean up, I just wipe out/off the upper receiver and BCG with a clean cotton rag. The carbon and crud comes off easily. I then reapply fresh lube.

More important than what type lube you use is you use something, and preferably a liberal amount. Like so many things, too much is better than too little. So what if it gets all over???
 
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#46
MSTN said:
More important than what type lube you use is you use something, and preferably a liberal amount. Like so many things, too much is better than too little. So what if it gets all over???
Click to expand...

This statement pretty much all one needs to know. Use something, clean it off regularly, and then re-apply whatever you use.

I recall being told that if i was shooting a "semi-auto anything" and didn't have little drops of oil on my shooting glasses, the firearm was too dry.

As for the "gun butter guys" and Boeing? Wouldn't be the first personal project to be accomplished with the big bucks, high tech facilities. I used to work in their Wind Tunnel back in the 60's. That's about all I'll say about that.
 
#47
I run this stuff... Liqui Moly Top Tech III. Works great in the car and stays put in the gun. Pretty much anything meant turbocharged engines should be good. Wipes the carbon clean.

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/E6CE55D695738C10C12573B400507DF7/$file/3706%20Top%20Tec%204200_EN.pdf
 
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#48
Nik H said:
I am a bit anal so my process is

I begin with Hoppes #9 to get the copper out of the bore. I think my dad used it as well. Been around for a long time. I am careful to use it sparingly as I don't want it getting on the plastic parts. However, I don't think it would be harmful.

I follow that with M-Pro 7 cleaner o get rid of any final traces of the Hoppes out of the barrel and to get all of the powder residue and gunk off of the various parts. I follow that with a small amount of M-Pro 7 gun oil LPX. This is a lubricant only not a CLP. I stay away from anything labelled CLP as it is a cleaner-lubricant. I have found these type of products are not as good as standalone cleaners and lubricants.

I have used M-Pro products for a long time with excellent results in all environments on all of my SA rifles.

Best regards,
Click to expand...

+1 on this. I love that M Pro 7x lubricant. It just seems to last forever...great product.
 
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