Fieldcraft shoe polish as a buffer?

The Mall Ninja

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Nov 1, 2008
422
8
North Pole, AK
somewhere i read on here that people use neutral shoe polish on their rifle actions as a buffer whenever they bed them. alright... with that being said, could i use it as a buffer agent inside my action when i spray paint it? i really didn't like it when my bolt got all gummed up when i painted in the receiver last time(yes i made sure the chamber was blocked) if i can use it as a buffer agent what could i use to remove the shoe polish without taking off the paint? not to mention how could i apply it where i want it without getting a massive mess?
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

Use qtips to get it where you want. If you buff it thin enough when you rub the paint off the residue will be thin enough it will not matter.

Either way its easier to stuff the action with cotton balls and then tread lightly with a qtip and acetone to remove any residue.
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

Brownells and most plastic supply houses carry Polyvinyl Acetate mold release agent. Used according to instructions, the stuff is far more reliable than any home remedy agents. If you're painting, use a dedicated paint masking product.

There ain nuthin' like the real thing, Baby...

Greg
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

I just bedded a Rem 700 in an HTG. Broke it out of the stock and trimmed the bedding before I came to law school. I used Kiwi neutral. It works great. I like it better than Accra Release, but I never had any real problems with that either.

Here is the way I do it(method approved by those with more know-how than I will ever possess).
Put on one layer and buff it out really well. Put on another thin layer and do not buff. On Rem 700's, I always get a srue that comes up through the front action screw hole. It wads up and makes a squirrel turd in the receiver ring. No worries, it breaks loose with no effort.

David
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

I disagree on the polyvinyl being more reliable. That stuff can get thick and blotchy and is a biach to remove some times when done.

Kiwi neutral or any color for that matter works great. So does Johnson's paste wax. Clean with denatured alcohol, put on a coat, buff, put on another coat, buff again, then bed away. Removal with the same denatured alcohol. NOTHING is easier or more reliable.
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

I've used mold release with good effect.....
although you need ventilation.

I used "PAM" cooking spray too
wink.gif

worked like a charm...
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

Guys he's not bedding he's painting.

Here is a hint. Take a piece of typing paper cut it to length and roll it up and slide it into the raceway. The paper will try to unroll and give a nice fit and will be a great mask against the paint.

I do this all the time to keep coatings from the inside of the action when needed.
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Guys he's not bedding he's painting.

Here is a hint. Take a piece of typing paper cut it to length and roll it up and slide it into the raceway. The paper will try to unroll and give a nice fit and will be a great mask against the paint.

I do this all the time to keep coatings from the inside of the action when needed.
</div></div>

DOH!

Thanks, that's a cool trick...
Andy
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

Randy,
Any tips on keeping the action clean when blasting for painting prep? It seems like no matter what I do I end up with a little media in the bolt lug area that takes forever to get out.
 
Re: shoe polish as a buffer?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Norcal Phoenix</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Randy,
Any tips on keeping the action clean when blasting for painting prep? It seems like no matter what I do I end up with a little media in the bolt lug area that takes forever to get out. </div></div>

Most of the time the action and barrel are done separately so that's not really a problem.

If the barrel is attached or it can't be remove for whatever reason you're kind of stuck. I thoroughly degrease with brake cleaner so the media has nothing to stick to.

I plug the chamber and muzzle with a rubber stopper then blast, not directing the blast directly towards the chamber area. When done I take the stoppers out use lots of compressed air, flush with brake cleaner, and more compressed air. When done there won’t be a trace of blast media left.

You don't want to use anything ridged like a delrin bore guide as a barrier because the blasting media is small enough that it will get in-between that bore guide and the action and lock that sucker in there making it hard to remove.