I'm so sorry to be that guy who joins a forum just for help but I'm in pretty rough shape with a new rifle... I have a lot of experience with hunting rifles, hand loading for them, and shoot steel with them for practice at 700 yards each year. Simply because it's kinda the limit with the ranch I get to practice at. In fact I do not let myself go to Montana or Kodiak until I have my load and my form down well enough to be sub moa at 500. Sure you guys see people say things like that all the time, but I can't really give you my bonafides any other way...
I played with a browning x bolt varmint target a few months ago. The owner had put it in a boyds stock and was getting ridiculously good accuracy with it. I bought my own in 6.5 creed and man I don't think I'll ever buy factory again.
Mine Is in mcmillan a3-5, vortex viper pst... Guess the point is the setup isn't the cause of my woes. When I first started shooting with it this month it had serious issues with flyers, pressure signs at weak powder charges, a ruptured case... the bolt was stiff but I figured it was just breaking in, out something. I've had me actions that loosened up over time. It closes and ejects fine with an empty case though, so I knew there was something wrong after that test.
My loads weren't very dramatic either. I started at 2.800 coal with a berger 140 hybrid, over a 40 grain charge of h4350. I wasn't really worried about cbto until I got some base line data, and from day one I had issues. Decided to play with cbto, I do not own a stoney point but I've had great luck literally just looking for scuff marks on dummy cartridges in combination with a sharpie. Lowtech but I have been able to find a place to start pretty easy using this. I get rifling/scuff marks on my ogive until the case is literally eating the ogive, it's hilarious actually. It seems the rifle has zero freebore. I'm almost certain it is not a bite in the chamber and my run out is excellent, so I do not think that is the cause either.
I guess my questions start there. How does a rifle manufacturer put out a barreled action that isn't to saami spec? Is there a way to fix this? I know there are throat reamers but man, that seems to be a step above short chambered barrels and rented reamers like I'm used to. Im aware that this barrel could be a tomato stake regardless but is it even worth fixing it or is a new barrel in order? You guys are life savers.
I played with a browning x bolt varmint target a few months ago. The owner had put it in a boyds stock and was getting ridiculously good accuracy with it. I bought my own in 6.5 creed and man I don't think I'll ever buy factory again.
Mine Is in mcmillan a3-5, vortex viper pst... Guess the point is the setup isn't the cause of my woes. When I first started shooting with it this month it had serious issues with flyers, pressure signs at weak powder charges, a ruptured case... the bolt was stiff but I figured it was just breaking in, out something. I've had me actions that loosened up over time. It closes and ejects fine with an empty case though, so I knew there was something wrong after that test.
My loads weren't very dramatic either. I started at 2.800 coal with a berger 140 hybrid, over a 40 grain charge of h4350. I wasn't really worried about cbto until I got some base line data, and from day one I had issues. Decided to play with cbto, I do not own a stoney point but I've had great luck literally just looking for scuff marks on dummy cartridges in combination with a sharpie. Lowtech but I have been able to find a place to start pretty easy using this. I get rifling/scuff marks on my ogive until the case is literally eating the ogive, it's hilarious actually. It seems the rifle has zero freebore. I'm almost certain it is not a bite in the chamber and my run out is excellent, so I do not think that is the cause either.
I guess my questions start there. How does a rifle manufacturer put out a barreled action that isn't to saami spec? Is there a way to fix this? I know there are throat reamers but man, that seems to be a step above short chambered barrels and rented reamers like I'm used to. Im aware that this barrel could be a tomato stake regardless but is it even worth fixing it or is a new barrel in order? You guys are life savers.