Sizing machine gun brass- what worked for me

[SDLocal76]

After wrecking a die I thought I would share what worked for me. Thanks to research here this is what I did

Make sure to let lube dry completely before sizing

Decap with universal die

Conduct first sizing in body sizing die only

Do final body sizing and neck sizing in the next location on a progressive press

Doing this reduces the amount of force and leverage each operation takes. Hope this helps.

 

[agbm]

Hello, just my .02 cents. From what people say machine gun brass gets stretched way out there. Just be careful if you are reloading brass that has been fired from a machine gun.

 

[jmorris]

Not all machine guns or firearms in general treat brass the same. Remember the difference between semiauto fired brass and machinegun fired brass can be as little as what position the selector is in (technically if it has a selector it's just a machinegun fired in semiauto but you get the point).

I agree with letting the lube dry, at least that is what the instructions say but I don't do anything out of the ordinary when reloading my machine gun brass except for roll sizing the base but I do that on my non machinegun fired brass too.

 

[918v]

Imperial sizing wax is better than any other lube.

Redding body die with machinegun brass is like a standard FL die with bolt gun brass.

Being that machinegun chambers vary in size, I think it is best to size the brass incrementally down to min dimensions to avoid sticky cases. I begin with a regular body die, then go to a small base body die, then finish with a small base FL die.

This way the sizing effort is normal and you're happy. Trying to size machinegun brass in a small base FL die is a pain.

 

[4Quangs]

I was struggling through 1000 cases of 308 LC NATO (machine gun) brass using Imperial Wax when Forsters sent me a sample of their high pressure lube. What a difference it made. I went from double sizing (to avoid stuck cases) to single stroke sizing with no more effort than sizing brand new Winchester brass.

The Forsters oil based lube is as messy as Imperial Wax, but it is so much easier on both the loader and the brass.

 

[918v]

Does that lube wipe off without any residue, ready to load? Or do you have to tumble?

 

[4Quangs]

It cleans as well as the Imperial Wax; both leave a film behind so I tumble.

My case preparation is done in two separate steps with the actual loading done on its own. My goal is have all my cases brought back to like new conditions after each loading.

First phase: (home from the range)
Decap, ream flash hole (first time only), uniform pocket primer, tumble.

Second phase: (Whenever I feel like and have the time)
Lube & size with FL NM die, wipe case and inspect headspace, trim to length, chamfer, debur, tumble.

Third phase: (Before leaving for the range)
Inspect case, prime, powder, seat and shoot.

Doing things this way keeps dirty cases out of my dies and removes brass chips left over from the trim, chamfer and debur steps. It also ensures that the cases are always straightened and that any case is ready to load for any of my rifles of that caliber. At a maximum of 6 cents per shot, I don't worry about over-working the brass. On a good day, I can shoot 1 or 2 groups (5 shot) under 1/2 MOA with most groups coming in at 0.75 to 1.2 MOA.

 

[918v]

Imperial does not leave a film behind if you start off with a clean rag. If you use the same rag over and over then you'll start seeing a film on your brass. To degrease the case completely one can use a rag dampened with Coleman fuel. What's nice about imperial is it stays put. It does not run down the inside of the case. It is easily removed from the neck with a qtip soaked in Coleman fuel.

 

[M40_A1]

What lube are you guys using that requires drying before sizing?

 

[jonbearman]

Dillon which uses an alcohol base and it has to evaporate enough to let the lanolin do its job. The same goes for rcbs,hornady etc.

 

[M40_A1]

Dillon which uses an alcohol base and it has to evaporate enough to let the lanolin do its job. The same goes for rcbs,hornady etc.

I assume this only refers to sprays then, right?

 

[SDLocal76]

I assume this only refers to sprays then, right?

Right

 

[mtrmn]

I always use small base RCBS dies on all my brass for every reload. Never had a problem that was limited to just MG brass.

As far as lube, the only time I've ever stuck a case was with Hornady 1 shot. Finally sprayed a bunch of cases and let them sit overnight, the problem went away but when I ran out of 1 shot that went away too. I now use my own lube made from liquid lanolin abd HEET fuel treatment