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Re: Skinning knife?
Gene Ingram
Charlie may
Bob Dozier
I'm kinda a blade snob and go for the customs.
Gene Ingram
Charlie may
Bob Dozier
I'm kinda a blade snob and go for the customs.
Re: Skinning knife?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dmg308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gene Ingram
Charlie may
Bob Dozier
I'm kinda a blade snob and go for the customs.
</div></div>
Tell me about convex edge knives. I want to buy a knife that is convex, but the convex sharpening scares me. Is this reasonable?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dmg308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Gene Ingram
Charlie may
Bob Dozier
I'm kinda a blade snob and go for the customs.
</div></div>
Tell me about convex edge knives. I want to buy a knife that is convex, but the convex sharpening scares me. Is this reasonable?
Re: Skinning knife?
No problem at all for most of my sharpening I use the spyderco sticks. The trick is to keep it touched up and not let it get real dull.
No problem at all for most of my sharpening I use the spyderco sticks. The trick is to keep it touched up and not let it get real dull.
Re: Skinning knife?
Backpack hunting two years ago, we downed an elk around 10:00am in a marsh right as a snowstorm was coming in.
Spent the afternoon skinning / butchering and freezing. Worked mostly with a Ritter RSK Mk3 and an Original Wyoming Knife.
We didn't lose anything, but we had to take special care to ensure our equipment wasn't buried in the falling snow.
With that in mind, I bought this Bakers & Chefs Utility Knives - 2pk from Sam's Club for $8.86. Spray-painted the handles fluorescent orange.
I'd have been pretty bummed if I lost a $300 knife out there.
Mike
Backpack hunting two years ago, we downed an elk around 10:00am in a marsh right as a snowstorm was coming in.
Spent the afternoon skinning / butchering and freezing. Worked mostly with a Ritter RSK Mk3 and an Original Wyoming Knife.
We didn't lose anything, but we had to take special care to ensure our equipment wasn't buried in the falling snow.
With that in mind, I bought this Bakers & Chefs Utility Knives - 2pk from Sam's Club for $8.86. Spray-painted the handles fluorescent orange.
I'd have been pretty bummed if I lost a $300 knife out there.
Mike
Re: Skinning knife?
I have been using Knives of Alaska cub bear for awhile now!!
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/fixed.aspx
I have been using Knives of Alaska cub bear for awhile now!!
http://www.knivesofalaska.com/fixed.aspx
Re: Skinning knife?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Big Bo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to buy a knife that is convex, but the convex sharpening scares me. Is this reasonable? </div></div>
Do you have a reason behind this? I am no expert but contact Juan Valdez here on the hide or he will chime in here but he builds a hell of a knife.
NOmag
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Big Bo</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I want to buy a knife that is convex, but the convex sharpening scares me. Is this reasonable? </div></div>
Do you have a reason behind this? I am no expert but contact Juan Valdez here on the hide or he will chime in here but he builds a hell of a knife.
NOmag
Re: Skinning knife?
I would like to say I use a high end knife but over the years I have de-evolutionized my hunting knife selection. I started out getting a custom George Tichbourne knife real nice decently expensive. I went to Forschner knives the Lamb skinner and semi stiff boning knife. Most recently I have taken a serious look at getting a Havalon replacement blade scalpel knife (fixed handle model) they seem to be light extremely sharp and you can bring replacement blades instead of knife sharpener.
When I broke it down to cost over usage the customs just weren’t cost effective. I hunt maybe 3 weeks out of the year. So to purchase a $150-$350 knife that I would use for such a short period each year wasn’t justifiable (to me) and the piss off factor of loosing a customs is much higher then if I were to lose a Mora or Forschner. So now I buy work tool knives and replace them as needed.
Here ar the picks of the knives
George Tichbourne kinfe
I would like to say I use a high end knife but over the years I have de-evolutionized my hunting knife selection. I started out getting a custom George Tichbourne knife real nice decently expensive. I went to Forschner knives the Lamb skinner and semi stiff boning knife. Most recently I have taken a serious look at getting a Havalon replacement blade scalpel knife (fixed handle model) they seem to be light extremely sharp and you can bring replacement blades instead of knife sharpener.
When I broke it down to cost over usage the customs just weren’t cost effective. I hunt maybe 3 weeks out of the year. So to purchase a $150-$350 knife that I would use for such a short period each year wasn’t justifiable (to me) and the piss off factor of loosing a customs is much higher then if I were to lose a Mora or Forschner. So now I buy work tool knives and replace them as needed.
Here ar the picks of the knives
George Tichbourne kinfe
Re: Skinning knife?
Well, thanks Nomag for the compliment. I'll offer my opinion on the subject.
In regard to Bo's question regarding shape, I'd like to offer a little bit of clarification.
1) There is a difference between a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">blade</span> and a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">edge</span>.
2) Hollow ground knives (done on a wheel) are concave, not convex. Convex bows out from the center-line, not in.
Geometricly, the flat gound blade with distal taper (tapers along the blade's length) is the strongest. It's all triangles and the distal taper allows the blade to distribute the stress of flexing along the full length of the blade and tang vs just the initial point of stress. But for what skinners get used for, it doesn't matter. We don't do a whole lot of prying when skinning/quartering an animal. Convex/flat/concave blade is just the owner's preference.
Personally, I prefer a flat ground blade with a convex edge. The reason for the edge preference is that when cutting, it naturally pushes the material being cut away from the knife's surface more quickly. The less contact with the steel, the smoother the cut.
Regarding skinners specifically, I prefer a blade with a lot of belly in it, but a nice tip for creating starting points too. When skinning, most usually use the rounded portion of their blades so they can cut the skin with a relatively light touch (assuming the knife is still sharp). Yet hair is one of the toughest things on a knife's edge. So the more belly a knife has, the more "skinning surface" you have to work with vs wearing out one spot quickly. Especially if you're skinning hogs. Their hair is nasty!
Here a couple of knives that show the difference. A skinner I did for Single.Shot a little while back. Notice how the edge of the blade is a long curve, but it still has a good point on it. (please forgive my poor photography)
Now here's more of a utility I'm just finishing up. Notice how there is much less round cutting surface on this one. Sure, you could skin with it, but it's not optimized for it.
Edited to add:
If you want to put a convex edge on a knife, you can put a fine sand paper (600 or so) on a piece of leather. The leather will give and create the slight curve. Once you have your shape, work up to higher grits (at least 1000). The more polished your edge is, the longer it will last.
You can also do it on a slack belt grinder, but BE CAREFUL not to get the blade hot. You can (and eventually WILL) ruin the temper on a blade that was properly heat treated. When I sharpen on a belt, I make quick passes and dip the blade in water after every pass.
Well, that's my opinion on the subject. Hope it helps in some way.
JV
Well, thanks Nomag for the compliment. I'll offer my opinion on the subject.
In regard to Bo's question regarding shape, I'd like to offer a little bit of clarification.
1) There is a difference between a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">blade</span> and a convex/flat/concave <span style="font-style: italic">edge</span>.
2) Hollow ground knives (done on a wheel) are concave, not convex. Convex bows out from the center-line, not in.
Geometricly, the flat gound blade with distal taper (tapers along the blade's length) is the strongest. It's all triangles and the distal taper allows the blade to distribute the stress of flexing along the full length of the blade and tang vs just the initial point of stress. But for what skinners get used for, it doesn't matter. We don't do a whole lot of prying when skinning/quartering an animal. Convex/flat/concave blade is just the owner's preference.
Personally, I prefer a flat ground blade with a convex edge. The reason for the edge preference is that when cutting, it naturally pushes the material being cut away from the knife's surface more quickly. The less contact with the steel, the smoother the cut.
Regarding skinners specifically, I prefer a blade with a lot of belly in it, but a nice tip for creating starting points too. When skinning, most usually use the rounded portion of their blades so they can cut the skin with a relatively light touch (assuming the knife is still sharp). Yet hair is one of the toughest things on a knife's edge. So the more belly a knife has, the more "skinning surface" you have to work with vs wearing out one spot quickly. Especially if you're skinning hogs. Their hair is nasty!
Here a couple of knives that show the difference. A skinner I did for Single.Shot a little while back. Notice how the edge of the blade is a long curve, but it still has a good point on it. (please forgive my poor photography)
Now here's more of a utility I'm just finishing up. Notice how there is much less round cutting surface on this one. Sure, you could skin with it, but it's not optimized for it.
Edited to add:
If you want to put a convex edge on a knife, you can put a fine sand paper (600 or so) on a piece of leather. The leather will give and create the slight curve. Once you have your shape, work up to higher grits (at least 1000). The more polished your edge is, the longer it will last.
You can also do it on a slack belt grinder, but BE CAREFUL not to get the blade hot. You can (and eventually WILL) ruin the temper on a blade that was properly heat treated. When I sharpen on a belt, I make quick passes and dip the blade in water after every pass.
Well, that's my opinion on the subject. Hope it helps in some way.
JV
Re: Skinning knife?
the knife he made me is kick ass looks and function. the fit and finish of the metal and wood is excellent.
Thanks JV
the knife he made me is kick ass looks and function. the fit and finish of the metal and wood is excellent.
Thanks JV
Re: Skinning knife?
Juan makes a hell of a knife. Even though I supplied the blade and parts the thing that impressed me most about JV his is attention to detail. He is meticulous on every detail> I am glad to say that I have something the JV finished up for me.
PS JV I have a new blade you need to look at
Juan makes a hell of a knife. Even though I supplied the blade and parts the thing that impressed me most about JV his is attention to detail. He is meticulous on every detail> I am glad to say that I have something the JV finished up for me.
PS JV I have a new blade you need to look at
Re: Skinning knife?
For what it's worth....
Girlfriend goes to grocery store, I have meat to cut. Same old routine until I finally got sick & F...ing tired of these same old G..Damn dull half assed kitchen knives she loves.
I stuffed everything back into the fridge, washed my hands, and hit 4 different grocery stores to find out what the guy's who cut meat for a living use. Every single one of them used Forschner w/Fibrox handle as Trevor mentioned above. Got back home, calm, cut up the meat with what I had, then went online to see what the skinny was.
I now own these...6" boning, 8" breaking, 7" Santoku, 10 1/2" butcher, 10 1/2" bread, 7 or 8"? Cleaver, 2 different 3 packs of various paring knives, and a few others I've probably forgot.
These knives are NOT pretty, fancy, or anything else other than very functional, and inexpensive. Most costing between $15-$25. I hadn't thought about painting them Blaze Orange for use in the field, but you can bet your bottom dollar that's what I'll be using this season.
Here's a link; http://www.cutleryandmore.com/forschner_fibrox.htm
Just my 2 cents,
-Pat
For what it's worth....
Girlfriend goes to grocery store, I have meat to cut. Same old routine until I finally got sick & F...ing tired of these same old G..Damn dull half assed kitchen knives she loves.
I stuffed everything back into the fridge, washed my hands, and hit 4 different grocery stores to find out what the guy's who cut meat for a living use. Every single one of them used Forschner w/Fibrox handle as Trevor mentioned above. Got back home, calm, cut up the meat with what I had, then went online to see what the skinny was.
I now own these...6" boning, 8" breaking, 7" Santoku, 10 1/2" butcher, 10 1/2" bread, 7 or 8"? Cleaver, 2 different 3 packs of various paring knives, and a few others I've probably forgot.
These knives are NOT pretty, fancy, or anything else other than very functional, and inexpensive. Most costing between $15-$25. I hadn't thought about painting them Blaze Orange for use in the field, but you can bet your bottom dollar that's what I'll be using this season.
Here's a link; http://www.cutleryandmore.com/forschner_fibrox.htm
Just my 2 cents,
-Pat
Re: Skinning knife?
ButtRipper, you didn't skin that pig with Steve's knife! You had Todd do it!
Steve is a real good maker and helluva nice guy.
Karma, give me a shout when you wanna make time to come by.
ButtRipper, you didn't skin that pig with Steve's knife! You had Todd do it!
Steve is a real good maker and helluva nice guy.
Karma, give me a shout when you wanna make time to come by.
Re: Skinning knife?
It really depends on the game you are working on. For most of what I do I prefer these two knives made my Bill Snow (Tipi knife works).
Bill is a retired AMU guy and crafts the best steel I've ever had the pleasure of using. As is typical with these types of things he's slow but worth the wait. I have 8 on order now for friends.
This knife finished 7.5 hogs from tip to butt before it stopped shaving hair. A little work with a piece of leather and lapping compound and she is almost too scary to touch again in literally minutes.
This is a cape knife he made for me from a sentimental piece of antler that I had.
There are a lot of great knives out there. These happen to be my favorite by a long shot.
BILL SNOW 706-576-4390
It really depends on the game you are working on. For most of what I do I prefer these two knives made my Bill Snow (Tipi knife works).
Bill is a retired AMU guy and crafts the best steel I've ever had the pleasure of using. As is typical with these types of things he's slow but worth the wait. I have 8 on order now for friends.
This knife finished 7.5 hogs from tip to butt before it stopped shaving hair. A little work with a piece of leather and lapping compound and she is almost too scary to touch again in literally minutes.
This is a cape knife he made for me from a sentimental piece of antler that I had.
There are a lot of great knives out there. These happen to be my favorite by a long shot.
BILL SNOW 706-576-4390
Re: Skinning knife?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">we do all our butchering with a Hide fighter....
</div></div>
Jack Nicholson doing some hog hunting
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">we do all our butchering with a Hide fighter....
Jack Nicholson doing some hog hunting
Re: Skinning knife?
I just finished a meats and carcass evaluation class, and all we used is the Forschner / Victorinox knives mentioned here. Not expensive, but they take and hold a great edge with very little work.
Other than that, I like my case knives. A lot.
I just finished a meats and carcass evaluation class, and all we used is the Forschner / Victorinox knives mentioned here. Not expensive, but they take and hold a great edge with very little work.
Other than that, I like my case knives. A lot.
Re: Skinning knife?
Forschner or Dexter Russel are great butchering knives but not ideal or practical for field dressing.I prefer the Dexters as I've been using them to cut up tune for years though in reality they are the same.
Forschner or Dexter Russel are great butchering knives but not ideal or practical for field dressing.I prefer the Dexters as I've been using them to cut up tune for years though in reality they are the same.
Re: Skinning knife?
My favorite knife in the kitchen and when cutting meat up is Forschner Boning Knives 6-in. Curved Boning Knife: Semi-Stiff
I believe this is the knife in the middle of the three that Trevor showed. Lately I have been hunting whitetail deer almost exclusively and skin them warm, usually the night after shooting. Skinning animals warm makes it extremely easy, except for animals like beaver, otter, and a few others.
For my belt knife when hunting I use a 3" drop point, I use to carry a larger knife but I find this does all I need. I changed a few things in my field dressing method to accommodate a smaller knife, I no longer split the pelvis nor the rib cage. The changes made it worth given I carry a smaller knife.
Just my two cents,
My favorite knife in the kitchen and when cutting meat up is Forschner Boning Knives 6-in. Curved Boning Knife: Semi-Stiff
I believe this is the knife in the middle of the three that Trevor showed. Lately I have been hunting whitetail deer almost exclusively and skin them warm, usually the night after shooting. Skinning animals warm makes it extremely easy, except for animals like beaver, otter, and a few others.
For my belt knife when hunting I use a 3" drop point, I use to carry a larger knife but I find this does all I need. I changed a few things in my field dressing method to accommodate a smaller knife, I no longer split the pelvis nor the rib cage. The changes made it worth given I carry a smaller knife.
Just my two cents,
Re: Skinning knife?
If all you are doing is skinning - you can't go wrong with an Ulu knife.
I've used one, wish I had one!
If all you are doing is skinning - you can't go wrong with an Ulu knife.
I've used one, wish I had one!
Re: Skinning knife?
For now I'm stuck with just one May:
I've got two Ingrams on the way (September 2010) and one more May.
For now I'm stuck with just one May:
I've got two Ingrams on the way (September 2010) and one more May.
Re: Skinning knife?
I gut and rough butcher with a SOG Seal pup. For finishing and meat cleaning I use a cheap fillet knife I bought from Wally World for like $10
I'm very please with them. Honestly don't see a need to upgrade
I gut and rough butcher with a SOG Seal pup. For finishing and meat cleaning I use a cheap fillet knife I bought from Wally World for like $10
I'm very please with them. Honestly don't see a need to upgrade
Re: Skinning knife?
I had a real nice R Ball from an Alaska trip, but I ended up giving it to my brother. Found some Marbles knives at pawn shop, gave them to my roomates for helping me process my buck this year. I think my next knife might be a Buck unless I make one for myself. I might try to make one like the Anza knives. Giving away my knives is getting me alot of pocket change.
I had a real nice R Ball from an Alaska trip, but I ended up giving it to my brother. Found some Marbles knives at pawn shop, gave them to my roomates for helping me process my buck this year. I think my next knife might be a Buck unless I make one for myself. I might try to make one like the Anza knives. Giving away my knives is getting me alot of pocket change.
