Rifle Scopes Slipping TPS rings

Furner

Private
Minuteman
Apr 10, 2008
52
0
Grand Rapids, MI
I got out and shot my new 700 the other day, and about 5 rounds in I noticed my scope had slipped substantially from where I put it in the rings. I have TPS TSR rings, and I torqued them properly.
I understand TPS is famous for their customer service, so is there anything I can try myself to get the rings to fit properly? Lapping maybe?
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

It did fit more snug that I am used to. Had to press with one finger to get the scope in the lower half. Rings do not appear to be lapped. I am wondering now if the edge of the lower half did not get milled enough so the ring is not actually sized to a full 30mm

Also, I notice you are in GR as well. Hello neighbor! Where do you shoot?

EDIT: I did just get an email back from TPS, they are willing to take the rings and check them out if I want to send them to them. I might do a little more measuring and then send them out. I am almost out of ammo right now anyways and it might be a week or two before I get more.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

You did tighten the left (notched side) first, then the right then recheck both correct?

I've never had any problems with TPS rings, either with a MK4, SuperSniper or USO..
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You did tighten the left (notched side) first, then the right then recheck both correct?

I've never had any problems with TPS rings, either with a MK4, SuperSniper or USO.. </div></div>

Yep, I actually followed all their directions and everything. I knew they were different so I made sure to read carefully.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Try this, after you tighten the rings see it you can get a .002" feeler gauge between the ring halves on the side that does not have the notches in it. If you can't get the feeler gauge in between them then the halves are closing up before the rings are clamping the scope.

David
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

I had the same exact problem. I threw them away because tps would'nt respond to any emails. Then, I vowed never to buy anything TPS again. The problem was that the rings were fully closed before they gripped. Dont bother lapping becuase that wont do anything but incease the inside diameter.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

This is what TPS rings do! I did exactly the same thing. Tightened the grooved side first and then torqued the things down to a value that was found on the TPS forum. Then I called them to ask what was up and they blamed me and told me that it was my fault.

They were technically IOR rings but they were made by TPS and TPS pretty much told me to piss up a rope and that I should learn how to properly mount rings.

I returned the scope and threw the rings in the garbage where they belonged.

Bought a Schmidt & Bender and some Badger rings and never looked back. Mounted it once and nothing has moved or felt anything less than perfect.

EDIT: Before anyone asks. Yes I tightened the grooved side first, yes I lined them up, and no they didn't bottom out before reaching the correct torque value. They just didn't hold the scope. But they did scratch the piss out of it! Nothing a little krylon wouldn't have fixed but still sucks!
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

I have 8 pair never had a problem mounting them a variety of rifles & scopes without any slippage. As a matter of fact when moving scopes from rifle to rifle, I notice that they did NOT even leave a mark.

I think there may be some QC problems, but I have never experienced it myself.

/cl
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: clang</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have 8 pair never had a problem mounting them a variety of rifles & scopes without any slippage. As a matter of fact when moving scopes from rifle to rifle, I notice that they did NOT even leave a mark.

I think there may be some QC problems, but I have never experienced it myself.

/cl </div></div>

Yep, 5 sets here, 1" & 30mm, Steel & Alloy and nary a problem. I run them on a BO rail, a Ken Farrell rail and a TPS rail, so go figure?

Even Mercedes makes a lemon from time to time.

Chris
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Agreed, I'm running 6 sets right now and they are a mix of 1" and 30mm with no problems.

Like Chris said everyone puts out a bad product from time to time, but if you swear off every bad product you run across you are going to run out of things to use...

Just my $.02

Ron
 
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Re: Slipping TPS rings

Using a little torx wrench put the long end in the screw and tighten the screws as tight as you can comfortably with your thumb and forefinger, do the left ones first then the right ones.

 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Using a little torx wrench put the long end in the screw and tighten the screws as tight as you can comfortably with your thumb and forefinger, do the left ones first then the right ones.

</div></div>

Been there done that. I followed the TPS directions exactly.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

It happens, I think it can depend on the scope. Since TPS is using such a tiny gap if you get a scope with a tube dia. that is not right at or over 30mm they will clamp shut. I have bought 4 pair over the last few months, three have been fine mounted solid with still a tiny gap. However one set I mounted with a falcon 4-14 clamped shut before even getting close to tight. Interesting is that they went on the tube really snug but once torqued down the rings were bottoming out. No they were not lapped, yes the notches were lined up, yes they were installed as per the instructions.

Frankly I just took a little bit of metal off the right side of the top ring where it meets the lower ring, add some alumi-black, problem solved.

Same sets of rings used on a leupold worked fine, with a little gap, same on a bushnell 30mm. The falcon is a little undersized, in measuring the two scopes the leupold is right at 1.18" the falcon closer to 1.17" no idea if that's enough to cause the issue but by my math that puts the leupold at 29.97mm and the falcon at 29.72mm

However since you are torquing them down and still have a gap that is odd. Perhaps you got a set that are out of tolerance and don't have enough ring to scope contact.

Frankly I'm amazed you got ahold of TPS I can't count the number of times I've contacted them for info/?/stock inquiry and never heard back. I'd be leary of sending them in just because of their custom service horror stories.

I would check the ring alignment if you don't have a lapping/alignment kit it's a handy tool to have. I've seen some ugly scope alignment issues even with good rifle/rings/bases combos it's rare but it does happen. If the rings were not aligned you could be getting good torque on the bolts but not nearly enough scope tube/ring contact. It's good peace of mind to at least verify the alignment even if you don't want to lap them.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: ToddM</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It happens, I think it can depend on the scope. Since TPS is using such a tiny gap if you get a scope with a tube dia. that is not right at or over 30mm they will clamp shut. I have bought 4 pair over the last few months, three have been fine mounted solid with still a tiny gap. However one set I mounted with a falcon 4-14 clamped shut before even getting close to tight. Interesting is that they went on the tube really snug but once torqued down the rings were bottoming out. No they were not lapped, yes the notches were lined up, yes they were installed as per the instructions.

Frankly I just took a little bit of metal off the right side of the top ring where it meets the lower ring, add some alumi-black, problem solved.

Same sets of rings used on a leupold worked fine, with a little gap, same on a bushnell 30mm. The falcon is a little undersized, in measuring the two scopes the leupold is right at 1.18" the falcon closer to 1.17" no idea if that's enough to cause the issue but by my math that puts the leupold at 29.97mm and the falcon at 29.72mm

However since you are torquing them down and still have a gap that is odd. Perhaps you got a set that are out of tolerance and don't have enough ring to scope contact.

Frankly I'm amazed you got ahold of TPS I can't count the number of times I've contacted them for info/?/stock inquiry and never heard back. I'd be leary of sending them in just because of their custom service horror stories.

I would check the ring alignment if you don't have a lapping/alignment kit it's a handy tool to have. I've seen some ugly scope alignment issues even with good rifle/rings/bases combos it's rare but it does happen. If the rings were not aligned you could be getting good torque on the bolts but not nearly enough scope tube/ring contact. It's good peace of mind to at least verify the alignment even if you don't want to lap them. </div></div>

I have an alignment kit. They line up "pretty damn close". How close is close enough though? Should the tips line up exactly or is being off a tiny bit ok?
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Good question. Myself if I put the alignment gauges in there and there is any real visual offset I can see I adjust them (flip rings around, bed the base, change top caps (if not indexed) etc, or I lap them. I don't know what kind of gap would cause a big issue, and I'm sure ring spacing would be a factor in that. I guess just as an offhand guess if I saw anything more than about 1/32" I'd be pretty concerned about it. That said I've seen gaps of 1/8"+ before but I've also seen bent scope tubes too
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Re: Slipping TPS rings

The rings should sit flush on the index side, and there should be a slight gap on the other side. If your rings do not have a slight gap on the non-index side then they have been installed incorrectly.

I have posted some examples -

IMG_0298.jpg


IMG_0300.jpg


I hope this helps

/cl
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Yea thats exactly how mine looked, torqued to their specified value, before I shot the rifle.... Then after I shot it the scope was forward a bit more and scratched to hell.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Yep thats how mine look too. I swear I did everything right, and I was just shocked to see my scope had slipped so far.
Im gonna get some plasti-gage and put it in there and see if I am getting a big gap anywhere.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

How does the scope fit into the rings withnot any downward pressure on the scope into the rings? There shouldn't be easily seated onto the lower ring without some pressure and once it is seated it should be be easily moved or adjusted. Here is an example of the fit of the rings on a scope tube without being seated.

IMG_0311.jpg


Does this help at all?

/cl
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Yes scope tube diameter can make a big difference, especially with the TPS rings and how they are made. Check a NSX scope, their tube diameter will vary widely from scope to scope and even on the same scope the front tube diameter will be different then the rear tube.

If you had the correct gap and the rings were installed correctly then I would suspect your torque value was not correct. Get an adjustable torque driver and do it again. Be sure all oil is out of the screw hole and off the screws.

I use 20 inch on the scope base screws and 20 inch on the cap screws, and no 20 inch pounds won't hurt a thing.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 45.308</div><div class="ubbcode-body">TPS are paper weights but its doubtful they could even do this right.

The one word answer......Seekins </div></div>

I need to save up a little and I think I will do just that. Or sell that "paperweight" to someone else.
I tried cheaping out and using the TPS because someone recommended them as an affordable alternative to the big names. But I should have just gone all out the first time around.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

I’ve been following this thread from a personal interest at home and again looked at it this afternoon. My knowledge as I have mentioned before is from the machining side, but the issues, problems and complaints that I have read here on this thread 100% relate back to the machining/technical side, so I thought I would throw some things out that not everybody necessarily thinks of.

First, for the majority of folks on this forum and I’m sure most of the customers in general who are mounting optics to their rifle platform don’t give a rat crap about anything other than having quality components in which they can install and receive satisfactory and above performance from their investment. They didn’t buy a riflescope, rings and or mounts to be required to become an engineer, machinist or a QC Inspector just to get their rig functional. Logical thinking is that the manufacture is the expert and they should have already figured this crap out before I buy, not after, right. Right, sort of.

As I mentioned, my background knowledge is from the machining side, and being my nature, which I believe is good, is that everything I look at is machined wrong. Wrong in that nothing is perfect, whether it is not perfectly round, square, parallel, perpendicular or flat. Nothing is perfect, we try to come as close to perfect as we can or to the extent of the cost involved in making something as close as perfect, but at the end of the day, nothing is perfect, and usually most things are very far from it.

As a point in this discussion, there has never been two rifle receivers ever made in the world which have been identical. Each damn one is different and unfortunately, my recent 6 months of experience with rifle receivers, is that they are the most inaccurate machining on features that relate to optics mounting that I have ever seen in my entire career as a machinist. Every one that I have looked at and measured, which is a lot in the past several months are terrible. How and hell anything stays securely mounted onto a rifle receiver directly from the factory without proper machine truing or epoxy bedding of the bases to the receiver is beyond me.

We have over 30 Remington M700 receivers alone that are available for our internal inspection and not ONE is the same as the other and we even have the engineering prints directly from Remington and only about 3 of them actually meet their engineering prints with regards to true hole position callouts and none of them meet dimension tolerance with respect to the front and rear receiver radius dimensions and heights between the front and rear receiver rings.

The image I included is from our public archive file, which isn’t perfect from my standard, but it does provide a slight insight into what happens when you mount your bases and rings onto a rifle receiver. What it doesn’t show is that regardless of whether you are mounting a One piece or a Two piece base on to your receiver, they WILL BE WRONG!!, to some degree. Hence, the degree and what do me or you consider acceptable error. From most folks, acceptable is mounting your optics without any regard to any of the below illustrations and TA DA, everything appears to work correctly and your scope doesn’t decide to move under recoil, you don’t have any ring marks on your brand new scope, and the point of impact with a bore sight alignment is close, SUCCESS. But, that doesn’t mean its right.
Along comes the average Joe, and mounts everything up and is expecting the TADA again, but no, only crap follows. Well guess what, every component you have just put together has manufacturing tolerances and some have a whole lot more than you wished or thought they did. When you start stacking and compounding all of these components together, guess what, there not going to always work.

As I mentioned in one of my previous post on here, scope rings that leave here are the most precision scope rings I have ever seen. I have worked at another optics company in Oregon in the years past, and I can tell you, these are light years beyond those.

The truly aquilles heel that TPS has, in my personal opinion, is it’s trying to build scope rings to meet Boeing standards knowing that are going to be mounted on a galvanized pipe intended to hang cyclone fencing on, and please no offense intended on comparing your optics to a cyclone fence. The ring bores on the rings made here have a maximum tolerance of .0002 per inch cylindrical roundness and a .0005 bore diameter. We have over 100 scopes in QC for size comparisons and they deviate as much as .010 from one to another. Leupold & Stevens is by far the most accurate from any we have in QC, but they have as much as .0015 variances between models. The average deviation from brand to brand is .005 in diameter. Welcome to my analogy of scopes and cyclone fences. Nothing is perfect and usually is far less than perfect.

So, you ask, why the $%#&* did my ABC rings work before and now I buy this TPS brand and my scopes slip. Well, because TPS, in the infinite wisdom decided to make a scope rings extremely accurate in the bore size. Well, the question bears asking, and I’ve asked it in my first week of working at TPS. Why the $%#&* don’t you make them like everybody else. Response, “Because there is a large percentage of shooters who know the difference between right and wrong. And we will not give in to providing an inferior product design just so that a small percentage of people will not have problems in mounting their rings in the improper manner at the expense of the many who know the difference.” For right or wrong, I think with over 250,000 pairs of rings in the world today from TPS and with such a small percentage of issues which as has been mentioned here, isn’t too bad. Of course, from my view there all bad.
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I’ve worked at an optics manufacture in the past and have personally watched the extreme precision which goes into the assembly of a rifle scope. I can personally be a little critical about some of the tolerances which eventually go into the final assembly, however when it comes to utilizing lasers and extremely precision and expensive optical alignment machines to align all of the lenses close to perfect, it is impressive. However, the same story played out their as it does here, they spend all of this time and expense in aligning the lenses to a tenth degree and attempting to provide a quality end product out the door only to have the product slapped into a set of poorly aligned rings and bases and destroy everything that had just spent all that time aligning. A very sad and unfortunate process but the norm.

The most notable difference between TPS brand rings from everyone else is the ring bore size and its cylindrical roundness. Take a Mark 69
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tactical ring and compared the ring bore. The ring bore runs .005 oversize from the scope tube, as does many brands of rings, and I think we have them all for internal review. When you screw down the ring cap down on a typical scope ring base you are “Crushing” the optics tube to mechanically prevent the scope from moving, hence the “Ring Marks” you typically find on previously mounted optics. If you’re scope ring diameter is .005 oversize from the optics tube, you are only contacting about 5% of the tube at initial ring cap assembly. The only way to obtain more contact on the scope tube is to increase the torque on the screws to force the scope tube into compliance.
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, thereby actually deforming the tube mechanically to prevent slippage, as it done millions of times a year. Sure, it works, but to what price to the highly precision aligned optics inside.

Now take a scope ring which is typically within .0002 to .0005 diameter of the scope tube that is being mounted. Now you have close to 98% contact, enough contact that allows the scope to be held in position by using “Friction” between the scope ring and the optics tube, not by “Crushing” the tube to conform to an “egg shaped” ring bore. Further, by having extremely close diameter fit between the ring and the optics tube, even with excessive pressure from torqing the ring cap down, the optics tube is better protected from crushing because the entire circumference of the scope tube is supported due to the extremely close tolerance bore, rather than an oversize ring bore, hereby causing the scope tube to be deformed to fit the ring bores.

Last but not least, if your scope tube has been marred or is slipping wiht TPS rings, it’s because the rings are out of alignment so far that it is damaging the scope tube to conform to the mis-alignment or your percentage of contact has decreased due to the angularity between the scope tube and the ring bores or both in any or all of the 3 axis that are involved in alignment of your sets of scope rings, PERIOD. (No sugar on top)

Notice: EVERY SINGLE RIFLE IN THE WORLD HAS MISALIGNED RINGS. The questions is, is it within a close enough tolerance not to damage the scope tube and thereby effect the function, alignment and the end performance of the optics being mounted.

NOTICE TWO: Using two alignment bars with a pointed end on each end to align the two points up between the two rings doesn’t tell you squat, matter of fact, it’s less than squat. The rings could be 15 degrees off and the points could still align.


Looks like I wrote a novel again, things have been running exceptional smooth today, so had time to kill, as long as I don’t get caught killing time.

More to come, if time and job allows……

Scope%20Assembly%20Education%20Flyer.jpg
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

I must keep getting good scopes.......every one I've ran in the many pair of TPS rings I've had have been fine. There aren't enough marks in the ceracoat in my SN3 to tell me where it sat in the pair I have now.
I have heard folks complain about NH tubes, but haven't had one (yet). My MK4s through Super Snipers have been fine..
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

The TheMachinist nailed the issue right on the head, upon reading his post I have come to the conclusion that a single picatinny base will dramatically enhance the ability for the rings to be in proper alignment, which in my case that is ALL I have on my rifles.

Thanks TheMachinist for talking the time to give such a detailed explanation.

/cl

 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

Excellent post by the machinest and worthy of a sticky, not necessarily to promote TPS but as a reminder that your rifle is a system that is truely a sum of its parts. Great reminder of why I have bedded all of my bases to the receivers for quite a while.

Also a great point on the alignment bars with the pointed ends, hell I can make the ends touch with them held in my hands but I doubt it means my hands are perfetly aligned.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: bh-ltr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is what TPS rings do! I did exactly the same thing. Tightened the grooved side first and then torqued the things down to a value that was found on the TPS forum. Then I called them to ask what was up and they blamed me and told me that it was my fault.

They were technically IOR rings but they were made by TPS and TPS pretty much told me to piss up a rope and that I should learn how to properly mount rings.

I returned the scope and threw the rings in the garbage where they belonged.

Bought a Schmidt & Bender and some Badger rings and never looked back. Mounted it once and nothing has moved or felt anything less than perfect.

EDIT: Before anyone asks. Yes I tightened the grooved side first, yes I lined them up, and no they didn't bottom out before reaching the correct torque value. They just didn't hold the scope. But they did scratch the piss out of it! Nothing a little krylon wouldn't have fixed but still sucks! </div></div>

The same problem,the same rings...on 1 gen IOR SH.
Bought Seekins...no problem.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

I disagree somewhat on the alignment bars being useless, though I certainly do not have anywhere near Machinists experience. Maybe we can get some more clarification on that. In my mind, using any kind of reasonable setup with a one piece base/picatinny rings there's NO way to get 15 degrees offset without seeing it in the alignment bars, and if it did happen you'd never get a scope to sit in them.

Take the process of aligning them in your hands. YES you can twist one or the other and get the points to align without them being in cylindrical alignment, but look at what you have to do to accomplish that. You either have to shift the rod horizontally or vertically. I'll limit this to one piece bases and picatinny type rail/ring setups.

Either you would have to have a HORRIBLY twisted to the left or right one piece base so one ring is shifted badly to the left or right, or a horrible vertical hump in the base where the angle changes drastically on the vertical. In addition to that needed offset either vertically or horizontally, you'd need the axis of the ring bore to be coincidentally exactly off the right angle so the alignment bar points met perfect. While sure that can happen in hypothesis, with reasonable components it's never going to happen to any significant extent. The odds of all those things happening and being off just the right amount to make the rod points line up has to be astronomical.

We can reasonably assume that most high end rails are produced at least very close to strait vertically and horizontally. In addition again with rings the same while some vary sure, no quality company is turning out a scope ring that's offset to the left or right or up and down a significant amount and then magically bored at the perfect compensating angle to align the rod points up. If it happened with any serious offset it would be a one in a million deal. That and *IF* the rings were that far offset and then bored back to center axis, you would never even come close to getting a scope tube to even think about sitting in them.

I agree that those situations can happen to very small degrees and things could line up, to me the rods are still a good verification that things should at least be very close, especially if the scope sits easily and fully into the lower half of the rings.

While the alignment rods do not guarantee things are perfect, they also will not tell you exactly what the problem is if they do not line up, that has to be accomplished with trial and error for the most part.

While I'm sure it's happened, I've seen many scope tubes bent or damaged with setups that were never aligned. However, I've yet to see a setup where the alignment rods indicated things were true, and scope damage still occurred because there was some off set to the ring/base interference, and the ring axis was just by chance bored back toward the other ring at the perfect angle to make the alignment rods line up.

Basically if you look at Machinist's diagram that shows impingement points. The only way to have such impingement points and then have the rods line up correctly would be if the axis of the ring holes were bored in the exact same angle magnitude but in the exact opposite direction of the mount impingement. I just don't think that's a likely scenario.
 
Re: Slipping TPS rings

ToddM I understand where coming from but like the Machinist said this is not proof that they are lined up with points matching up. I align pump and motor setups, some have to be within .0005" at the coupling. Now if you were to take those bars and turn them around and use the flat face(if they are machined correctly) on them instead of point you could measure your misalignment. In perfect alignment the two bars should mate up with no gap anywhere between the two faces (angularity) and the outside circumferences should match up perfectly (offset).

Take the top illustration in the Machinest's post. The pointed ends of the alignment bars could very well match up and the rings would be nowhere close to being in alignment. One point in case would be old model 700 Remingtons (no prefix). The rear portion of the receiver is .017" lower than the newer models(thanks SDWhirlwind for that piece of info). If you put a one piece base on the old model without shimming the rear of the base you will have to bend or flex the base to fit the receiver but it might surprise you how close that points will line up. If you use the flat face of the bars it will be noticeable and measurable. I guess what I'm trying to say is that if you use pointed end of the alignment bars then you are probably pretty close but if want to know for certain that you are aligned use the flat faces instead.

David