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Night Vision Slowly building a nv set up advice

Delicatessen

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Minuteman
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Apr 6, 2017
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Kansas
I want to start getting a good night vision set up but can’t afford to do it all at once: I can probably get a good tube now, a good helmet and mount in about 3 months, a good it laser illuminator in about 6-9 months. So is it worthwhile to buy the tube and something like a tnvc twist mount in the short term or buy a cheaper laser mount quicker?

ideally I was going to go l3 monocular, bump helmet, dovetail mount (g24?) and then Dbal, pec or mawl but can’t do all of that all at once. I am figuring $800 helmet and mount, $1500+ illumination/laser which will take time to save up. I could do cheaper if they are good but don’t want to buy something and then waste money replacing quickly after purchasing everything.
 
Here is a quote from another thread on perhaps the best mount system. Also consider Night cap, a soft cap by Crye, if you don't need a helmet for other reasons.

"Also, the best mount to use is a Norotos Rhino 2 with a Norotos PVS 15/18 Dovetail Socket put on it. This is a much better mount setup than the revered Wilcox G24 (which I also have). The Norotos Rhino 2 with Dovetail socket lets you stow your NODS much closer to your helmet. It is also a much easier mount to adjust, has wider adjustment features, has a force to overcome flip up instead of the (pushbutton) etc etc etc.

Plus you can buy a Rhino 2 usually of Ebay for around $75 and get the Nortotos PVS 15/18 socket for around $60 for a grand total of around say $135 vs the $400 to $500ish price of a Wilcox G24."
 
$800 for a bump helmet is nuts, IMO. I've got far less than that in mine (TW LTP, PT Switch MPLS IR/White, TW counterweight, strobe) if you don't count the NV mount (I'm running ball detent, so.... oof). The NightCap can be a viable option, but my head is just too damn big for one, so it wasn't comfortable to wear for an extended amount of time. The bump helmet is *far* more comfortable for me, plus keeps me from whacking my head on things when tromping around in the woods or getting in and out of vehicles/structures in the dark.
 
Ok to clarify I meant basically all mounting stuff in with the helmet and mount (helmet, mount, arm/bridge, counterweight lanyard/drop arrestor)...if the night cap thing works Without tilting forward that may be a good idea (does it work well with drop lanyards etc?). What are some better options for ir/illuminator and laser?

my main priority is the nods itself for most of the budget (most likely a unfilmed pvs 14 from tnvc). My main concern is not wasting money in the long run on the other things required....so if the cryenight cap would work well long term then that would work. And if there is a Good cheaper laser please let me know.
 
Your objectives will dictate the setup to some extent. For example I hunt pigs at close range (35yds and in typically). The dbal 9007 or even a Tor mini works great for this. If I were hunting areas with big fields and lots of visibility I would probably have prioritized thermal.

Both the nightcap and helmet are worth having. It's nice to have something small to travel with.

If you are down for spending the money, the INVG/DDA is pretty nice for a single 14. The Rhino 2 dovetailed with a DDA is absolutely as functional, but I just found myself bumping the 14 on roll cages and car doors more than I cared for.
 
Here is a quote from another thread on perhaps the best mount system. Also consider Night cap, a soft cap by Crye, if you don't need a helmet for other reasons.

"Also, the best mount to use is a Norotos Rhino 2 with a Norotos PVS 15/18 Dovetail Socket put on it. This is a much better mount setup than the revered Wilcox G24 (which I also have). The Norotos Rhino 2 with Dovetail socket lets you stow your NODS much closer to your helmet. It is also a much easier mount to adjust, has wider adjustment features, has a force to overcome flip up instead of the (pushbutton) etc etc etc.

Plus you can buy a Rhino 2 usually of Ebay for around $75 and get the Nortotos PVS 15/18 socket for around $60 for a grand total of around say $135 vs the $400 to $500ish price of a Wilcox G24."
I'd like to second this post. The G24 is an awesome mount for dual tubes, but its overkill and somewhat wasted on a monocular. Once you buy the G24 for $450 you'll also need the Wilcox j arm which is another $200. The more affordable (and arguably better) solution is a Norotos product, either the tatm or an aka2, with a dual dovetail mount - it's a more elegant solution compared to the Wilcox arm that uses all sorts of detents and knobs (which will develop slop over time), and will save you a few hundred $.

- Will
 
Actually, the very cheapest and perhaps the best mount might be a Army surplus Norotos Rhino 2 with a Norotos PVS 15/18 Dovetail Socket put on it and then the MOD Armory lightweight bridge. Just use one arm until a second PVS-14 is affordable. That could all be done less than $500. It's a well designed bridge.
 
I also have the Rhino II on a Crye Nightcap and I personally never foresee the need for a bump helmet helmet. The best part is I can shove it anywhere because it takes up no room at all. I usually keep it in a back pack all the time and just throw my PVS-14 when I'm transporting it to use. I was able to find a housing kit from that was very affordable and dropped in a used OMNI VII intensifier tube so everything total was under $2,000. I also use a Streamilight TLR VIR II on my rifle. Plenty food for my needs ($260 vs $1000+).
 
I use a Nightcap with a Rhino 2 and the whole rig including monocular folds up to fit on that small case that TNVC included with my PVS-14. I've always intended to get a bump helmet, but so far this arrangement has sufficed. Maybe when I add a second monocular the weight might be too much, but for now it's fine.
 
I use a Nightcap with a Rhino 2 and the whole rig including monocular folds up to fit on that small case that TNVC included with my PVS-14. I've always intended to get a bump helmet, but so far this arrangement has sufficed. Maybe when I add a second monocular the weight might be too much, but for now it's fine.

I’ve run dual 14’s with G24 and ModArmory Bridge off of a Nightcap. All you need is a decent counterweight. Works every bit as well as a bump or ballistic helmet, but you need to keep the chinstrap taught. That’s the ONLY thing I prefer in a bump/ballistic over the Nightcap — you can easily run those without a strap. The Crye really requires it.
 
+1 for Rhino 2 for a single tube and G24 for duals. I have both and I think the G24 would be unneeded spend for running a single monocular.

Another option from TNVC would be to purchase The mod3 bravo monocular

This would allow you to later on down the line purchase another mod3 monocular and bridge to make

I just recently got my Mod3B duals and had I know they existed I would have skipped 14's and just purchased the Mod3B monocular so that eventually I could have duals. My NV/ thermal experience has been a continual cycle of buying, selling and upgrading...I've come to really appreciate products that offer a linear path to upgrading. Yes you can strap two 14s to some kind of bridge dealy, but in this case you have something that from it's inception was designed to allow you to ease your way into duals and once you get there it is lighter.

Good luck getting into NV, lots of knowledge running around this part of the forum.

Edit to add that if you plan on operating a vehicle at night opt for a bump helmet, I smoke my head on the side of the ranger pretty frequently lol
 
Sorry to dig up an old post, but I want to confirm some things here.

I’ve got a nightcap with a Rhino 2 mount and using a j-arm for a single PVS-14.

I’m about to get a second PVS-14. My plan is to get a Mod Armory light weight bridge. To do that, I think I need a PVS15/18 dovetail adapter for the Rhino 2 mount. Is that correct?

And if I wanted to get a second nightcap so that I could share a 14 with a buddy, how best to do that? Keep existing setup as it is and buy a complete Rhino with dovetail? Seems like overkill to have a second bridge just to hold a single 14?

Thanks for the help!
 
Sorry to dig up an old post, but I want to confirm some things here.

I’ve got a nightcap with a Rhino 2 mount and using a j-arm for a single PVS-14.

I’m about to get a second PVS-14. My plan is to get a Mod Armory light weight bridge. To do that, I think I need a PVS15/18 dovetail adapter for the Rhino 2 mount. Is that correct?

And if I wanted to get a second nightcap so that I could share a 14 with a buddy, how best to do that? Keep existing setup as it is and buy a complete Rhino with dovetail? Seems like overkill to have a second bridge just to hold a single 14?

Thanks for the help!
You are on the right path with the PVS 15/18 Dovetail socket on the Rhino 2. Makes an excellent mount. Better than the Wilcox G24 IMHO.

Now regarding 2nd Light Weight Bridge. So any decent dovetail PVS 14 arm is gonna run minimum $175 ish. Mod Armory J Arm below is better than Wilcox J Arm. Wilcox J Arm is gonna run about $225. And that is all they can do is run a single.


I prefer to spend the additional $175 for the Light Weight Bridge because it can run a single or duals or 14 and Breach. YMMV.

 
Long time reader, first time poster here. Since we are on the topic of mounts and pvs-14 dovetail adapters, I need some advice.

I was previously using a rhino with j arm, and fell into a Wilcox g22 mount (Looks like an old version of it) that I intend on using. If I want to keep it under 200 bucks, what’s the best option for a dovetail mount? The three identified are the:

IC/MOD armory dovetail j arm
Wilcox j-arm
Norotos Dual Dovetail Adapter

Any advice would be appreciated. I am not looking at doing dual 14s anytime soon so a dual mount isn’t really on my radar.
 
One more question. I’ve got a Rhino 2 with a bayonet socket. Is there a kit to convert that to a dovetail socket? And if so, what is it called? My searching didn’t find any thing useful.

Or am I better off just getting a complete mount with the dovetail socket? The pictures look a bit different so I don’t know if the geometry is different too?

Thanks
 
One more question. I’ve got a Rhino 2 with a bayonet socket. Is there a kit to convert that to a dovetail socket? And if so, what is it called? My searching didn’t find any thing useful.
Thanks
You need to fire your Google Foo. I done posted the fix plus tutorial video probably at least 3 times here on the Hide. You aint reading the Hide enough :LOL:

When I started converting Rhino 2's over to Dovetail that tutorial vid did not even exist so I had to figure it out on my own.

Here is the fix.



Instruction Video
 
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INVG is slick as hell for a monocular. You can switch eyes or fold it up and out of the way.
You are correct that the INVG is slick. But why invest in a one trick pony. I like two , three or more trick ponies when I am spending my money if at all possible.

Point being, I have found the Rhino 2 Dovetail with any of the Mod Armory Bridges to be a very versatile many trick pony that will also lay NODS and the Breach as compact on a helmet or Crye Nightcap as any system out there. The versatility is huge and at a price point that beats most all of them.
 
@RyanScott, yeah I guess I know that the new guys (once they hit the crack pipe) will likely dive in deeper. Point being I try to advise them on a setup that performs very well, is tough, most cost friendly and allows them to expand at a later date without starting out new again on mounts, etc.

Lord help them fellas if they hit the crack pipe Horta worships. :LOL:
 
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@RyanScott, yeah I guess I know that the new guys (once they hit the crack pipe) will likely dive in deeper. Point being I try to advise them on a setup that performs very well, is tough, most cost friendly and allows them to expand at a later date without starting out new again on mounts, etc.

Lord help them fellas if they hit the crack pipe Horta worships. :LOL:

I’m a habitual “heavy user.”. 😜
 
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You need to fire your Google Foo. I done posted the fix plus tutorial video probably at least 3 times here on the Hide. You aint reading the Hide enough :LOL:

When I started converting Rhino 2's over to Dovetail that tutorial vid did not even exist so I had to figure it out on my own.

Here is the fix.



Instruction Video

And thanks for the tutorial! Helped me. And if anyone reading this wears glasses go with this fix....much better and flexible option to get the eye relief right for a variety of NV and thermal helmet mounted units than other mounts.
 
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You need to fire your Google Foo. I done posted the fix plus tutorial video probably at least 3 times here on the Hide. You aint reading the Hide enough :LOL:

When I started converting Rhino 2's over to Dovetail that tutorial vid did not even exist so I had to figure it out on my own.

Here is the fix.



Instruction Video

I've shared that with many a new guy with these same questions. That was a excellent video to make. Thank you.
 
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Reactions: WhereNow&How
You need to fire your Google Foo. I done posted the fix plus tutorial video probably at least 3 times here on the Hide. You aint reading the Hide enough :LOL:

When I started converting Rhino 2's over to Dovetail that tutorial vid did not even exist so I had to figure it out on my own.

Here is the fix.



Instruction Video


LOL. Google and I have a love/hate relationship. Sometimes it gives me what I’m looking for on the first search. Other times I find myself 12 hours in thinking “this search string will work “...

Thanks for the link and video! Exactly what I was looking for.

My plan here is that I can run duals when just me. If someone is with me, I can take one off so we each have one. The other guy gets stuck with the web headgear that came with the units and the J arm bayonet mount. Not ready to gear up for 2 people myself right now.
 
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@WhereNow&How

Alright, this is getting a little embarrassing....

I thought I was taking a short cut and bought a new mount rather than just the dovetail adapter. Seemed easier. But, no.

I bought one of these:

It's a Norotos TATM Dovetail NVG mount.

And something like this for the nightcap:

But the two do not go together. It looks like the plate on the TATM could be replaced with 3 screws for something that would fit the shroud. But I don't see those available anywhere (or at least Google and I aren't finding agreeable terms to search for them).

Can I fix this? Or did I just buy something I have no use for?

Thanks again for all of your help!
 
@WhereNow&How

Alright, this is getting a little embarrassing....

I thought I was taking a short cut and bought a new mount rather than just the dovetail adapter. Seemed easier. But, no.

I bought one of these:

It's a Norotos TATM Dovetail NVG mount.

And something like this for the nightcap:

But the two do not go together. It looks like the plate on the TATM could be replaced with 3 screws for something that would fit the shroud. But I don't see those available anywhere (or at least Google and I aren't finding agreeable terms to search for them).

Can I fix this? Or did I just buy something I have no use for?

Thanks again for all of your help!
So why does it not fit. Won't go in or is to sloppy in the Ops Core Shroud?

Man, $90 bucks for a shroud is highway robbery. I get great ones for about $15 bucks most of the time. :)
 
So why does it not fit. Won't go in or is to sloppy in the Ops Core Shroud?

Man, $90 bucks for a shroud is highway robbery. I get great ones for about $15 bucks most of the time. :)
That's not the one I got, just the first one that came up in a search. I think I paid $20 with shipping.

It appears the TATM is made for this shroud:

So it's not loose like bad tolerance, what I have is about 30% smaller than the shroud. And it would need the release mechanism in the shroud.

But after posting, I just found this:

I think this converts the TATM I bought to fit the shroud I have.

So much for making my life easier!
 
That's not the one I got, just the first one that came up in a search. I think I paid $20 with shipping.

It appears the TATM is made for this shroud:

So it's not loose like bad tolerance, what I have is about 30% smaller than the shroud. And it would need the release mechanism in the shroud.

But after posting, I just found this:

I think this converts the TATM I bought to fit the shroud I have.

So much for making my life easier!
But you did not answer the question. Why did it not fit. TATM was too big to go in shroud or to small. Details are needed. If too big to go it. Is it slightly too big. More details needed to answer the question correctly.
 
The TATM is way too small. It falls through the hole in the shroud.

It looks like the TATM is designed to work with a different Norotos shroud that has the pushbutton release on the shroud rather than the plate.

Thanks.