"Snipers rifle" vs regular sporting rifle ???

knosaj

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Sep 18, 2011
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I'm just beginning my research to purchase a nice rifle. "Sniper style" and the Sakos are high on my list. Not because I know so much about them, but I have a bit if brand loyalty.

I have a question though. I have an old .270 sako finbear deer rifle with a sporting barrel and an old 3x9 leupold. I'm getting 1/2 MOA out to 300 yards (that's all I've tried) I rest about 4-5 min. Between shots so the barrel doesn't heat up. I've found that if I push the light barrel to hard, my group starts walking.

I'd like to reach out to 1k. I don't know if that 1/2 moa would hold between 300-1000, but in theory it should. There's a lot going on at that range.

Except for the benefits of a heavy barrel, What justifies the several thousands of dollars in a fancy "snipers rifle"?

Now I'm getting one either way (cause they just look so dang cool!) I'm just curious.


Thanks in advance
 
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The justification is that you don't have to wait as much between shots. You don't have to spend "several thousands of dollars" to get a very accurate rifle though. (Well, not including the scope). A heavy target barrel will allow you to shoot more in less time, which can't be a bad thing. However, if you're already getting 1 1/2" groups at 300 yards with a 9x scope, you may end up paying a lot just cause they look so dang cool!
 
A sniper rifle is more repeatable and "harder" than a sporting rifle. By harder, I mean battle hardened, as in can take much more abuse (or should well be able to) than a sporting rifle, and STILL maintain repeatability (INCLUDING the optics and mounting system). That adds a bunch to the cost.
 
The "hard" factor and precision tolerances are where the money goes. Sure 40 dollar weaver rings work, but what do they do when you drop the rifle out of the car? Do they hold zero? Do they snap all together or bend? Possibly on both counts. HOWEVER if you take some badger steel rings I would be impressed if you can bend or break them with use. They cost more because they are tougher and most importantly have good manufacturing tolerances that cheap or entry level equipment does not.

Agree on the sniper rifle terminology. A rifle is just a tool. There are plenty of hunters of deer who enjoy the same features that a sniper, a hunter of armed men, enjoys. Think about the vietnam era rifles fielded by snipers. Looks an awful lot like a hunting rifle, BUT it wasn't lol.

The heavier barrel with heat up much slower and be much stiffer, allowing more shots before heating up, while at the same time flexing less with each shot. The custom or trued factory actions and barrels cost more because, hopefully, they are aligned and stress free. An entry level or hunting rifle may not be.

ANYWAYS, whats the budget and what caliber do you like?
 
"A sniper rifle allows you to shoot Derkas in the wire where a sporting rifle will only hit rabbits"
A sniper rifle is a rifle that is used by a sniper."


The above are two ways of saying the same thing. A good rifle is an accurate rifle that is made well. All the rest is up to the shooter and how much they want to spend for bragging rights.

If one starts with a good rifle and learns how to shoot it they will prolly be more accurate than the guy that spends $10,000-$15,000 on the latest super long distance sniper, gold dust jello bedded, pickle forked bipod, 1.5 ounce 4 stage trigger, 65 twist fluted bolt in a titanium solid box beam action behind a wrought iron twisted, mirror polished barrel that sits in a box getting looked at every day. However the guy with the good rifle won't be able to extoll the virtues of bunch of super widgets he went bankrupt obtaining.
 
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"Gold dust jello bedding" I have been looking high and low for this stuff but can't find it, anyone have a link to some. PS: shoot the Sako till the barrel melts then rebarrel with a good barrel of your choice.
 
Probably the proper lingo around here is "practical precision rifle".

Medium to heavier weight aftermarket barrels, detachable bottom metal for 10 round mags, generally higher grade components built into the rifle and with higher quality FFP scopes, mounts and rings.

Word of advise...if you plan on shooting past 500Y a lot then get a cartridge/caliber that delivers less wind drift than the old standby.
 
The things that make a quality long range rifle, are thing that don't necessarily make a good hunting rifle. My 6.5 Creedmore which is based on a R700 action, weighs in at just over 22lbs. The Accuracy International is around 17lbs. To drag that up and down the mountains would be tough. The other factor is most long range shooters use a longer barrel, another disadvantage for hunting.

Then comes scopes, long range shooters will us 20x plus magnification which offer a shorter field of view. Another thing is scope size, hunters seem to use 42mm and smaller scopes. Where long range shooters use 30 to 35 mm scope bodies with 50 - 55mm bells so we can get enough elevation for the longer shots. In addition we use angled scope mounts to allow for addition elevation.

Others have mention things like detachable magazine. Then you have muzzle brakes along with suppressors. Tolerance on a long range rifle are much tighter then most hunting rifle, which makes it problematic for any foreign material.
 
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"Precision" means repeatable, but not necessarily durable. Though expensive, alot of "precision" rifles are rather fragile.
True sniper/contersniper (LE and military) rifles HAVE to be durable AND repeatable or there can be catastrophic repercussions.

"Sporter" doesn't necessarily preclude being somewhat durable or repeatable, but are usually more easily portable and economical. You pays your money and takes your chances. There are some really accurate sporter rifles mixed in with the lemons, but knock them around once or twice and there's no guarantee the POI or accuracy will be the same.

JMO.
 
Careful, many on the Hide get very upset when you use the "S" word. Here's a pic on my new stick.

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