Hello everyone, I am new here and I in no way consider myself an expert. I simply have some experience with building an AR. Since I have come to this forum, I have seen a large volume of AR-15 questions about issues that seem to perplex some. I am not inferring ignorance towards anyone, and since this forum is geared towards long guns, I am sure most of you have forgotten more than I will ever know about them. But for those of you who are thinking of taking on the challenge of building and AR I would like to share with you some of the things I have learned through trial and error.
First off, know where to get help and tutorials:
Here on this thread is one of those places, others are Ar15.com, M4Carbine.net, Bigger hammer.com, etc... google is your friend.
Second, you are going to need some tools:
Any normal hammer is good but a brass one is best.
Pliers, needle nose and wide jaw.
Electrical tape (to cover some of your tools to prevent marring the weapon)
4 Drift punch 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, and 5/32”
Armorer’s barrel wrench and a 1/2” drive breaker bar
Ar15 combination wrench or a Telestock wrench tool
Lower reciever vice block
Upper reciever action vice block
A vice
two or three flat head screwdrivers in a variety of sizes from 1/8” wide blade up
an adjustable wrench that can open up to 1”
Next, you will need to decide what kind of rifle to build, things to consider are:
Caliber .223, 308, etc...
Gas impinged or Gas piston
Collapsable stock or full length
Flat top or carrying handle
type of rail system or hand-guards
type of grip and if desired fore grip
Barrel length, and twist
Barrel chrome lined or chrome moly
Flash hider style (sorry California)
Single point sling or other
types of sights BUIS and/or optics
Gas block or front sight post
Color options
Manufacturer of Lower
Manufacturer of Upper
My recommendations, so take from this what you will...
The .223 caliber is what I prefer in an assault rifle
If cost is an issue build a no frills M-4 setup, you can always add to it later
14.5 Barrel length with a 1 1/2” perm mounted smith flash hider
Vltor clubfoot collapsable stock
Daniel Def rail system
Carbine length gas system
Chrome lined barrel with M-4 profile and feed ramps
Just about any lower of decent quality but the (milled from a solid pice of aluminum is worth the money).
CMMG flat top upper receiver “Marked M-4” or “T”, if possible get a matched set upper and lower to avoid some of the tolerances issues.
Pinned gas block not a set screw mounted one, and I prefer the bayonet lug (Again sorry California)
Stag Arms Lower parts kit
CMT enhanced bolt carrier group
Troy BUIS
Don’t forget about things not included already, such as the gas tube and pin or the piston system, and if you are building it why not go to a piston system, the pluses out-weight the negative.
Lastly keep in mind, a good build can be as cheap as 500.00 but normally run around the 800.00 range. Building it yourself is in my opinion the best option for everyone because you learn so much from the process. Knowing how it went together gives you insight into how to diagnose issues like gas systems and misfeeds etc... I always feel compelled to point out that the AR-15 from its inception was designed to be an assault rifle and therefore not a precision instrument. -1MOA is not the norm and to get there you will have to sacrifice several things, such as the ability to shoot just about any ammo, cleaning will need to be done more often and more effectively, and soiled weapons will jam more often because of the tighter tolerances. The cost will be more considerable and eventually things like cryo barrels will need to be outsourced.
So get out there and build some guns.
First off, know where to get help and tutorials:
Here on this thread is one of those places, others are Ar15.com, M4Carbine.net, Bigger hammer.com, etc... google is your friend.
Second, you are going to need some tools:
Any normal hammer is good but a brass one is best.
Pliers, needle nose and wide jaw.
Electrical tape (to cover some of your tools to prevent marring the weapon)
4 Drift punch 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, and 5/32”
Armorer’s barrel wrench and a 1/2” drive breaker bar
Ar15 combination wrench or a Telestock wrench tool
Lower reciever vice block
Upper reciever action vice block
A vice
two or three flat head screwdrivers in a variety of sizes from 1/8” wide blade up
an adjustable wrench that can open up to 1”
Next, you will need to decide what kind of rifle to build, things to consider are:
Caliber .223, 308, etc...
Gas impinged or Gas piston
Collapsable stock or full length
Flat top or carrying handle
type of rail system or hand-guards
type of grip and if desired fore grip
Barrel length, and twist
Barrel chrome lined or chrome moly
Flash hider style (sorry California)
Single point sling or other
types of sights BUIS and/or optics
Gas block or front sight post
Color options
Manufacturer of Lower
Manufacturer of Upper
My recommendations, so take from this what you will...
The .223 caliber is what I prefer in an assault rifle
If cost is an issue build a no frills M-4 setup, you can always add to it later
14.5 Barrel length with a 1 1/2” perm mounted smith flash hider
Vltor clubfoot collapsable stock
Daniel Def rail system
Carbine length gas system
Chrome lined barrel with M-4 profile and feed ramps
Just about any lower of decent quality but the (milled from a solid pice of aluminum is worth the money).
CMMG flat top upper receiver “Marked M-4” or “T”, if possible get a matched set upper and lower to avoid some of the tolerances issues.
Pinned gas block not a set screw mounted one, and I prefer the bayonet lug (Again sorry California)
Stag Arms Lower parts kit
CMT enhanced bolt carrier group
Troy BUIS
Don’t forget about things not included already, such as the gas tube and pin or the piston system, and if you are building it why not go to a piston system, the pluses out-weight the negative.
Lastly keep in mind, a good build can be as cheap as 500.00 but normally run around the 800.00 range. Building it yourself is in my opinion the best option for everyone because you learn so much from the process. Knowing how it went together gives you insight into how to diagnose issues like gas systems and misfeeds etc... I always feel compelled to point out that the AR-15 from its inception was designed to be an assault rifle and therefore not a precision instrument. -1MOA is not the norm and to get there you will have to sacrifice several things, such as the ability to shoot just about any ammo, cleaning will need to be done more often and more effectively, and soiled weapons will jam more often because of the tighter tolerances. The cost will be more considerable and eventually things like cryo barrels will need to be outsourced.
So get out there and build some guns.