Gunsmithing Soft jaws for lathe
- Thread starter excaliber
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Re: Soft jaws for lathe
Small pieces of aluminum seem to work the best but I have also just cut up a pop can and used that
Small pieces of aluminum seem to work the best but I have also just cut up a pop can and used that
Re: Soft jaws for lathe
I use small strips of brass or aluminum. About the size of the jaw contact area. I use double sided tape to hold in place. I have used the same pieces for several years now. I just remove the tape when it is no longer sticky and reuse.
I use small strips of brass or aluminum. About the size of the jaw contact area. I use double sided tape to hold in place. I have used the same pieces for several years now. I just remove the tape when it is no longer sticky and reuse.
Re: Soft jaws for lathe
Someone on here told me about using copper pipe and couplings and they work great. Just slit them with a dremel and use whatever size you need for barrels and such.
Someone on here told me about using copper pipe and couplings and they work great. Just slit them with a dremel and use whatever size you need for barrels and such.
Re: Soft jaws for lathe
We use the copper pipe/coupler route. We buy various sizes and just slit them down one side. We usually dehorn the edges too.
We use the copper pipe/coupler route. We buy various sizes and just slit them down one side. We usually dehorn the edges too.
Re: Soft jaws for lathe
Something to think about if you are working on a longer piece in a center. It is better to use a shim that is small in width like wire and place them all an even location on the jaws. Wide or uneven distributed pads can distort or add stress to the workpiece. I have used strips of copper and alluminum long enough to form around the jaw so they stay in place without having to hold them. I have also machined a jaw set out of alluminum stock for the reversable type jaws. if you do this chuck on a round piece in with the scroll part of the jaw and machine the bore with pressure on the scroll to aid in concentricity with a 3 jaw.
Something to think about if you are working on a longer piece in a center. It is better to use a shim that is small in width like wire and place them all an even location on the jaws. Wide or uneven distributed pads can distort or add stress to the workpiece. I have used strips of copper and alluminum long enough to form around the jaw so they stay in place without having to hold them. I have also machined a jaw set out of alluminum stock for the reversable type jaws. if you do this chuck on a round piece in with the scroll part of the jaw and machine the bore with pressure on the scroll to aid in concentricity with a 3 jaw.
Re: Soft jaws for lathe
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stangfish</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Something to think about if you are working on a longer piece in a center. It is better to use a shim that is small in width like wire and place them all an even location on the jaws. Wide or uneven distributed pads can distort or add stress to the workpiece. I have used strips of copper and alluminum long enough to form around the jaw so they stay in place without having to hold them. I have also machined a jaw set out of alluminum stock for the reversable type jaws. if you do this chuck on a round piece in with the scroll part of the jaw and machine the bore with pressure on the scroll to aid in concentricity with a 3 jaw.</div></div>
This is a very good point. I have seen a smith use a very stiff O-ring to the exactly that. I have read about the use of a o-ring in a few books on this. Although I dont like the idea of a flexable shim like rubber
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Stangfish</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Something to think about if you are working on a longer piece in a center. It is better to use a shim that is small in width like wire and place them all an even location on the jaws. Wide or uneven distributed pads can distort or add stress to the workpiece. I have used strips of copper and alluminum long enough to form around the jaw so they stay in place without having to hold them. I have also machined a jaw set out of alluminum stock for the reversable type jaws. if you do this chuck on a round piece in with the scroll part of the jaw and machine the bore with pressure on the scroll to aid in concentricity with a 3 jaw.</div></div>
This is a very good point. I have seen a smith use a very stiff O-ring to the exactly that. I have read about the use of a o-ring in a few books on this. Although I dont like the idea of a flexable shim like rubber
