I recently bought an AI AXMC 338 lapua (along with swarovski scope). I go to a local range weekly to shoot between 700-1700 yards. Even with swarovski scope, it is mighty difficult to make out steel target hits at 1000 yard onwards. Is there a good solution. Budget is not much of a constraint, need something which works. I had bought a bulls eye ammo can system and it just does not work. really thankful for your time and attention.
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Solution for spotting hits at 1000 yard and beyond
- Thread starter harry_x1
- Start date
Personally I am a huge fan of these https://magnetospeed.com/products/t1000-target-hit-indicator
Have taken them out on steel targets to 1500 yards and they are still easily seen with 16x+
Some of our local club matches use them for targets at 800+ and it makes spotting so much easier.
On days with really bad mirage they get harder to see depending on the contrast of the backdrop but if you know where to look you can still make them out.
Have taken them out on steel targets to 1500 yards and they are still easily seen with 16x+
Some of our local club matches use them for targets at 800+ and it makes spotting so much easier.
On days with really bad mirage they get harder to see depending on the contrast of the backdrop but if you know where to look you can still make them out.
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This has promise but you have to shoot paper targets.
This has promise but you have to shoot paper targets.
Works great but the problem is it ONLY works if the bullet passes through the target while super sonic. I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but 1500 yards may be just barely pushing it for the 338 depending on load.
Also OP mentioned he was at a public range, which this would be a bad idea for. While designed to have user replaceable parts. It's not as convenient as a light up system.
Or maybe have a spotting scope and a spotter.
You can also hook up something like a Trigger Cam to the spotting scope and live stream it to your phone or a Tablet.
You can also hook up something like a Trigger Cam to the spotting scope and live stream it to your phone or a Tablet.
This has promise but you have to shoot paper targets.
This system is excellent but I imagine you’ll be replacing the corner sensors often if shooting at 1000+ yards. Chances of hitting the microphones on the corners of the target are way too high if there is any kind of wind or your elevation is not dialed in for distance.
Not saying it won’t work but the light thingy hiding behind the steel plate is probably the way I’d go.
shot cams up to a mile maybe further like this or maybe another brand
www.midwayusa.com
or you could make your own hd viewer
someone posted there attempt to see beyond 1000 yards they said it worked and ever were nice enough to post in the forums what they used to make there own version and I think some pics or a video sorry I did not save the posting of that .
have seen videos of people reading a label on a backpack on line from 2 miles away with a telescope that was kinda neat but the telescope they were using was more expensive than the sme bullseye camera thing so i did not save that either . good luck and please post back what you decide on and how it works for you .
SME Bullseye Camera Systems Sniper Extended Range Edition Tripod 1
The SME Bullseye Camera Systems Sniper Extended Range Edition 1 Mile Target Camera System is an all in one unit; built-in camera, high definition video,...
www.midwayusa.com
someone posted there attempt to see beyond 1000 yards they said it worked and ever were nice enough to post in the forums what they used to make there own version and I think some pics or a video sorry I did not save the posting of that .
have seen videos of people reading a label on a backpack on line from 2 miles away with a telescope that was kinda neat but the telescope they were using was more expensive than the sme bullseye camera thing so i did not save that either . good luck and please post back what you decide on and how it works for you .
I've got a Ruger 338 RPR/Athlon Ares BTR combination and quite honestly I felt it was really easy seeing hits on white painted steel at 1200 yards the last time I was out. But I'm sure it's more problematic at 1700. I like the looks of the Midway SME Bulleye camera system. IF IT WORKS. I've got a shooting buddy, we'll call him Mikey. I'll have to show him this one. He'll try anything! See if he likes it. Of course then I can borrow it!!
This has promise but you have to shoot paper targets.
these are bad ass!! couple buddies and i just went in on one and got it up and running yesterday...going to make load development much easier/faster.
we set ours up on a 4'x4' piece of 5/8s" plywood with the center cut then set up an IPSC target 10' to one side and slightly behind as a sigther target but i get what your saying.
Unless the dirt is really wet I have little problems spotting hits with 338’s with my rifle scope or cheap spotting scope.
My 260 at a mile can get interesting but I still usually see the impacts.
A really nice spotting scope like a Kowa prominar certainly helps on those tough days.
My 260 at a mile can get interesting but I still usually see the impacts.
A really nice spotting scope like a Kowa prominar certainly helps on those tough days.
Maybe it is the range conditions...but on our south florida range, in the swamp, the mirage makes it extremely difficult to spot marks on steel with white paint. I use swarovski str 80 hd, and many other shooters on range also bring good scopes, but we all struggle to be sure about hits at 1000+ yard.
I’m in the opposite corner of the country.
sounds like the magnetospeed hit indicator or target camera is for you.
The Magneto Speed hit indicators are “all that and a bag of chips” and inexpensive when considering other options. Easy to set up and very visible at looooong distances; we use them on all targets 1000 yards and beyond.
This said, the hit indicators are exactly that, “hit” indicators, and only flash when the steel is hit; although they can be set up to indicate near misses. As for misses, nothing replaces having the target located in an area where you can spot misses through your scope or spotter. This requires a clear area around the target without vegetation; a berm behind the target also helps.
This said, the hit indicators are exactly that, “hit” indicators, and only flash when the steel is hit; although they can be set up to indicate near misses. As for misses, nothing replaces having the target located in an area where you can spot misses through your scope or spotter. This requires a clear area around the target without vegetation; a berm behind the target also helps.
I'd mess with paint color first if allowed. The suns angle or position can skew a view pretty bad. Then you have mirage, either from the ground, barrel, or suppressor. If I am going to shoot past 1400 yards, I do it early morning or after 6 pm most days.
Target cameras are cool but I couldn't fathom moving it from target to target, I or we manage to dick around enough when shooting.
Target cameras are cool but I couldn't fathom moving it from target to target, I or we manage to dick around enough when shooting.
Since money is no object you can hire me to spot for you.
Long shot LR3 camera system works as advertised. Check it out
We also use a Magnetospeed target light as it makes it easier to see through a spotter as well
We also use a Magnetospeed target light as it makes it easier to see through a spotter as well
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I had no issue spotting hits through my own scope at 1k yards through a NF NXS so i assume you struggle with mirage. Ordered a swaro str 80 with a phone adapter, may get a bit more out of that 
further and more mirage... seen a decent review for longshotcameras.com on youtube, may be worth looking at. Like the idea of a 2nd phone too though, put it on skype and tadaa
further and more mirage... seen a decent review for longshotcameras.com on youtube, may be worth looking at. Like the idea of a 2nd phone too though, put it on skype and tadaa My experience at 1200+ yards was that spotting the misses was more important so that I could make a correction to get on target. My main difficulty was with mirage. The berm was fairly low and the dirt kinda wet that day and after I figured out I was sailing a few shots over the berm it was a matter of spotting the wet dirt impacts and making a correction. This was with a 6.5 and 6mm Creedmoor so not a lot of dirt being kicked up. Mirage made that task next to impossible.
Our solution was to wait until the mirage died down in the evening and then we had a much clearer view of the target/berm. I have since upgraded my tripod to have a steadier mount for my spotting scope and a Swaro spotting scope is hopefully in my future. Equipment makes a difference but the environmentals sometimes make for a real challenge.
Our targets have the MS hit indicators but they won't tell you where on the target you impacted. That's the other challenge I'm still trying to overcome. Fresh paint certainly helps. Wish I could line up a couple of high quality observation optics and compare them side by side before I spent my money.
Our solution was to wait until the mirage died down in the evening and then we had a much clearer view of the target/berm. I have since upgraded my tripod to have a steadier mount for my spotting scope and a Swaro spotting scope is hopefully in my future. Equipment makes a difference but the environmentals sometimes make for a real challenge.
Our targets have the MS hit indicators but they won't tell you where on the target you impacted. That's the other challenge I'm still trying to overcome. Fresh paint certainly helps. Wish I could line up a couple of high quality observation optics and compare them side by side before I spent my money.
I've read that grayish colors can tend to be easier to spot hits on steel, especially in bright conditions.
I mentioned the shot marker because it would allow you to have a much larger targets than is feasible with steel making the spotting of misses easier as you would have more hits. But it only works as long as the bullets are supersonic as mentioned.
The hit indicators are awesome but only indicate a hit. Perfect for competition but not so useful for learning and training as you have no idea where on the target or where the misses went. The best feedback comes from the berm behind a steel target. Its a lot of work but is very reliable. Not gonna be easy in a swamp.
I mentioned the shot marker because it would allow you to have a much larger targets than is feasible with steel making the spotting of misses easier as you would have more hits. But it only works as long as the bullets are supersonic as mentioned.
The hit indicators are awesome but only indicate a hit. Perfect for competition but not so useful for learning and training as you have no idea where on the target or where the misses went. The best feedback comes from the berm behind a steel target. Its a lot of work but is very reliable. Not gonna be easy in a swamp.
If you look around locally you may be able to find a conveyor belt company that removes and installs belts. I had a good hook up for a while and can still get belting, but not the variety and amount I could before. Widest belting I ever got was 16’ wide. A good 60” belt can be hung behind the steel targets. If you paint it a light color that will contrast with the target, when you shoot the rubber it will make a paint “spall” like shooting steel because of the black rubber underneath. If you can see a hit on steel, you should be able to see it on the rubber. It will last forever and is great to hang cardboard targets from
You can usually get this stuff free. Also try your local lumber or chip mill. If you are in coal country it’ll be everywhere. A belting company will usually have the used belting on a reel from where they pull a new belt onto a line. Makes it a lot easier to transport.
Just a thought.
You can usually get this stuff free. Also try your local lumber or chip mill. If you are in coal country it’ll be everywhere. A belting company will usually have the used belting on a reel from where they pull a new belt onto a line. Makes it a lot easier to transport.
Just a thought.
Similar experiences. We’ve found it has to be a multi pronged approach. Spotting misses at long range is the number one problem. So many things working against you, wind, mirage, FOV of your optics, image quality.
IMO the best solution as follows:
1. Target Camera to see/record impacts
(LR3 allows me to send the image to an iPad). This image isn’t affected by mirage and is 4k quality.
2. Target indicator (Magnetospeed) allows the shooter to see an impact
3. 45-60x spotter with a reticle. Making guesses on shot impact distance from the target without a reticle is a quick way to burn money.
I plan to add a LongShot Hawk Eye to the spotter. Allows you to stream live image to an iPad, meaning you don’t have to spend time eyeing through a spotter. That truly sucks.
If mirage is really bad the a good pair of binos at 12x-15x is a must
I live in a similar climate to the OP. There are times where I cant shoot at 750 much less further due to mirage being so bad I couldn’t tell a hit from a miss on painted steel. The target moves so badly it looks like it is hit without shooting if it can even be seen. If the wind is good, you can hear the hit. If not then I don’t shoot. On those days, pretty much most of the summer, its early morning shooting.
750 on 20x
750 on 10x
500 on 20x
500 on 10x
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There's a 36" sq. white plate at 2 miles. See
it?
How bout now?
With 4 magnetospeed hit indicators on it, you can see impacts with your naked eye. It looks like someone hit a Vegas slot when they go off ?.
it?
How bout now?
With 4 magnetospeed hit indicators on it, you can see impacts with your naked eye. It looks like someone hit a Vegas slot when they go off ?.
I'm of the opinion that where you impact on a target is harder to control the farther out you shoot. Shooting 1700 yards + is a challenge unto itself. Unless you are loading ammunition with singe digit ES and SD of under 5 with bullets able to handle transonic/subsonic well, shooting in perfect conditions and are a very good shooter, where you hit on the target becomes less important than just getting a hit.
That is one idea I have been contemplating. Have you had some experience using drones for similar use or have seen someone else do it successfully ?
This is the truth. With mirage even 800m can be very impossible to see a hit or even follow the trace out to the mirage wall that commonly happens here in the south, but really applicable everywhere. I don’t care how much recoil management you have.
The magnetos are really the best way to do it that we’ve found.
We’ve tried it multiple times. Never worked well especially when it comes to battery life. A target camera system is much easier and you don’t have to worry about battery’s
I been using the cam - I created a DIY thread a bunch of years ago.
ELR Target Camera 2 Camera system with integrated DVR
Copy of my 2012 ELR build - rebuilt the best I could for the hide/Scout and nowhere again. Some of the images can't display due to the limitations on media - Build list at the bottom: (if you shop around, you'll find better deals than the example links in the build list) I've been asked a...
www.snipershide.com
BTW MULTIPLE SHOOTERS CAN VIEW THEIR OWN IMPACTS AND MISSES.. in realtime! You do not need a pilot.
We have multiple monitors and each monitor can easily support two shooters.. No mater how windy the cam and sending units do not tip over -
Notice the 24mph wind flag.. Shortly after the pole and camera light blew over - we used between 20 and 35 as our holds.
See the tumble weed run to the right, shortly after a 180° wind.. skip to about 28 second and see the wind really kick up.. Good stuff to be able to learn what is really happening. It is a great learning tool
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While drones are an expensive option it works when you can't readily drive out to the target. The first shooter on target 2 is using a .308 PGW Coyote and I am shooting a AXMC in 300wm. I shot the video with a Phantom 4 pro v2. the first target is at 1000m and the second one is at 1280. I have successfully used it out to 1600m. I have 30 mins from launch to return and can make several trips with the extra batteries I have. While the quality is not bad on this video I have down graded it for file size.
Tried this at 2k yds. There wasn’t good service between the DJI maverick and my phone. I tried hovering the drone at eye level.
I don’t know where your located but the more elevation you can get on your target and or the firing position the better. Here in eastern NC mirage boils really bad. We shoot 10ft off the ground on connex boxes and our targets are 6 ft off the ground. If we lay prone on the ground I can barely see hits at 700 from mirage.
Nikon Coolpix P900. You can see flies crapping at 1000, and they only cost around $380 bucks. Works great for vacation pics too!
I’ve got a Nikon as well. My experience has been the opposite. The video quality when sending the image to an iPad is horrendous
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Target vision cam for me at the mile or 2000 yards. Our drone experience took too much time switching batteries and piloting at long distances. I can see drones to be helpful if there isn't good accessibility to the target though.
Good paint on the target helps a ton.
Spotting misses? If the dirt is wet, or tons of brush, pretty impossible no matter the caliber.
Any experience with the LED system at a mile or farther? Is there enough movement to set it off?
Good paint on the target helps a ton.
Spotting misses? If the dirt is wet, or tons of brush, pretty impossible no matter the caliber.
Any experience with the LED system at a mile or farther? Is there enough movement to set it off?
Magnetospeed worked well at 1820 for 6.5cr and 308. Yep 308. Lol. He hit I’m a witness.
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