SR25 muzzle break removal
- Thread starter nexusfire
- Start date
The KAC Barrel Extension Action Wrench (AKA the "Knight Stick") is a KAC-specific tool similar to the Geissele Reaction Rod. This allows solid indexing which then enables you to apply the bonkers force needed to get it off.
I've done it, and it works. But honestly in hindsight I probably would have just left it alone if I had it to do over.
I've done it, and it works. But honestly in hindsight I probably would have just left it alone if I had it to do over.
They are tight. I have always used heat. I think the last one I smacked the end of the device hard and in line with the bore to get it to break free.
I have beat the fuck out the brake lol. It's one of the original EMC's so it's been on there for over 10 years.
I used a Midwest industries upper receiver rod in a vise, a long ass breaker bar w/ crows foot and a year off my life due to the anxiety about torquing the heck out of such an!expensive piece of kit. But it worked.
That's how I got mine off. "tap the end". Boil water and leave it sit over night submerged (the threaded area). Came off relatively easy with the KAC's reaction rod.
I tell ya, KAC does a damn fine job of putting together a rifle system they don't want anyone taking apart. The threads on my SR25 were slathered in Rockset.
The procedure I used was a couple minutes per side of muzzle device, rotating 180 degrees, then 90 degrees, then 180 degrees, then 90 degrees, etc. Using low heat on my heatgun took about 10 minutes. It still took more force than I was comfortable with, but was able to get the sucker uncorked.
Torque. Get the JP vise blocks, the right size crows foot, a long breaker bar and a cheater pipe if you need it.
Jack and others have repeatedly stated that water will not penetrate the threads of KAC barrel and muzzle device when mated.
Jack and others have repeatedly stated that water will not penetrate the threads of KAC barrel and muzzle device when mated.
What can I say? Maybe I'm just lucky or strong.
Jack also said he'd help me out with my broken mk18 sights to...or that shorter 6,5cm uppers were coming...
Mine came right off in the vise, no beating or water involved and my test fire target sheet is dated from 2015. Plenty of Rocksett all over the muzzle.
Jack helped out with my SR25 lower, but if your name is Don I can see why he might not help you out. The only commercial 16” I know of is in Chambers Custom possession so I don’t know what you expect Jack to help you out with there?
That was my point...the assistance was non existent...like those uppers(save for the one Joe had/has).
Also not named Don
Again, what help could be had with a non-existent product? You want a tip when they’re ready and shipping? What?
FWIW, a Rocksett rep told someone here (I think) that it's very brittle and that taps with a hammer go a long way towards breaking it up some. I've had mixed results with water. Usually I just torque it off.
If someone here is gonna loan you the proper reaction rod then you're good to go.
I have no problem loaning my tools out to guys on here provided they didn't join yesterday and I like a deposit --just in case it doesn't get returned or damaged from Fuddery. But that's one tool I do not have, couldn't justify the expense with only one rifle I don't plan on working on.
I never removed mine but I've heard they're legendary for being tight. On top of it they're 3/4" threads so they can take a lot. FN isn't much different really.
If you don't wind up getting the reaction rod, then another trick of mine is to drill out a 4x4 perpendicular to the grain. Drill the appropriate size hole such that it's a little smaller than the barrel (it doesn't have to be spot on, hell, it doesn't even have to be that close...). Cut it in half best you can and put that in the vise, these are your new barrel blocks and they'll hold a fuck ton more than the aluminum ones or the expensive poly ones I kept trashing. Worked for four or five SCAR barrels, still working.
If someone here is gonna loan you the proper reaction rod then you're good to go.
I have no problem loaning my tools out to guys on here provided they didn't join yesterday and I like a deposit --just in case it doesn't get returned or damaged from Fuddery. But that's one tool I do not have, couldn't justify the expense with only one rifle I don't plan on working on.
I never removed mine but I've heard they're legendary for being tight. On top of it they're 3/4" threads so they can take a lot. FN isn't much different really.
If you don't wind up getting the reaction rod, then another trick of mine is to drill out a 4x4 perpendicular to the grain. Drill the appropriate size hole such that it's a little smaller than the barrel (it doesn't have to be spot on, hell, it doesn't even have to be that close...). Cut it in half best you can and put that in the vise, these are your new barrel blocks and they'll hold a fuck ton more than the aluminum ones or the expensive poly ones I kept trashing. Worked for four or five SCAR barrels, still working.
Its an EMC so there is very little room between the gas block and the break but that is good information.
I love KAC products, I have 2 SR15's and only removed 1 device which was easy and no Rocksett. But I hear all the time about
this SR25 issue and it pisses me off they overdo the thread locker knowing most people don't use their enormously expensive
silencers. The big question is WHY??
this SR25 issue and it pisses me off they overdo the thread locker knowing most people don't use their enormously expensive
silencers. The big question is WHY??
Here is my new and improved equipment
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Yep. I had the same feeling. After flailing about I found some advice online, waited until I got the right tools (reaction rod/breaker bar) and off it came. Happy to have my new SAC barrel vise now too - same thing - was flailing around with this brake in the picture until I had the right tool.
So for sure the MI URR 308 works? I need one stat and it seems to be the only thing that I can find.
Standard Geissele AR10 reaction rod is good to go in an SR25? Finding the Knight stick is like finding a unicorn horn.
Recently removed the flash hider off of a new KAC SR-25 14.5" upper.
Used proper tools and it was easy; very little Rocksett on the threads, because a small amount is all that is necessary.
You cannot use a standard reaction rod for the SR-25, it literally is putting square lugs of the tool into radiused lugs of the
barrel extension, one or both will be ruined. Use proper tool to install the SF flash device.
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Used proper tools and it was easy; very little Rocksett on the threads, because a small amount is all that is necessary.
You cannot use a standard reaction rod for the SR-25, it literally is putting square lugs of the tool into radiused lugs of the
barrel extension, one or both will be ruined. Use proper tool to install the SF flash device.
@strikeeagle1 you took a picture of a geissele AR-10/ sr25 reaction rod. That's the one that I bought. So I guess it's good to go.
So no to the Midwest industry rod? I have that tool for the aac 3 prong, will that work?
Can you post a picture of the face of the spline on the MI rod? I’d like to see how they did it
Would you be down to loan the rod out for a couple days? I’m down to give a deposit.
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Tbh I had thought it was the same thing basically as the Geissele reaction rod. I have one of those in the AR15 size but for this one got the MI URR because it cost a little less. If it was the wrong tool like strikeeagle says I guess I was lucky. I don’t have the sr25 here to check the fit against.
For comparison sake. I would surely like some more confidence that the GEISSELE AR10 rod will keep the SR25 start chamber safe.
The disclaimer in the Knightstick copy about square lugs is for the SR/AR-15, not the SR-25. Lots of misinformation here.
Strike eagle is right, water.
I get rocksett muzzle devices off in about 30 to 45 minutes.
Boil water dump in large butter tub outdoors and put muzzle in. Repeat three times in 10-15 minutes.
Third time quickly pull it out and secure barrel. It will come off with about the same force as installed, work quickly because when it gets back to ambient it harden's back up.
No torches or special tools needed as long as it has flats for a wrench. I stopped doing the overnite soak.
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