I did a makeover of a friend's RAR. It had the same problem. I just got one myself and it also binds.
Get a Glade's Armory extended bolt handle to replace the OEM bolt handle.
This is the link to the one that you want. It comes with a cross hatched knob. Some people like the cross hatched pattern. If you don't like that, Glades sells other knobs with the standard thread.
Ruger American Rimfire Tactical bolt Handle with a 1.7” Cross Hatch aluminum tactical knob, black anodized
gladesarmory.com
Here's a video on removing and installing the bolt handle:
You probably know this but don't forget to put some LocTite, Vibra-Tite or plumber's tape on the threads to keep the bolt knob in place.
The new RAR comes with a really difficult to operate and stiff bolt. After installing the extended bolt handle, you will notice a really big difference. The potential for binding is still there. However, because of the extended swept-back handle you will find that there is less tendency to (subconsciously) push up on the bolt.
I don't want to insult your intelligence but remember that you want to keep the rifle shouldered after squeezing the trigger and cycle the bolt without dismounting it.
There is a tendency to exert upward pressure on the bolt when the rifle is lowered from the shoulder like you see a lot of novice shooters do. In other words people tend to pull up on the bolt now that the rifle is not against the shoulder while moving it forward. Please forgive me if I'm not very clear on that.
If I were in front of you, I could show you very easily where it is happening. So the question now remains, where is the binding occurring?
Look at the photo below. I've used a stainless RAR for clarity.
The two red arrows point to the angled upper portion of the raceway where the bolt handle contacts the inside of the receiver when pushing forward when upward pressure is applied.
Look at the single arrow on the right side of the photo. The upper forward corner of the bolt handle is "digging" into the upper inside of the raceway (two arrows) when the bolt is moved forward and upward pressure applied.
Trust me, the binding potential is still there but the ergonomics of the extended bolt handle really mitigates that to the point you will think it had never been a problem. Just remember to leave the rifle shouldered and move the bolt.
Now because of the muscle memory you may have developed over time, it may feel awkward to cycle the bolt with new handle really fast.
Just practice with the new handle in slow motion for a while. You will soon develop new muscle memory and the speed will come with practice.
Here's a couple of other things that you can do. I put a liberal amount of moly-lube on the bolt; especially around the shear points like I described above. Moly-lube is messy and stains the heck out of everything but it's my go-to miracle lube. You can also try the Mil-Com grease. Plain old RIG grease isn't bad either.
The last resort that I don't recommend and I have not attempted is reprofiling the inside of the raceway and/or the corner of the bolt handle. It can be done but I think you'll like using the extended bolt handle. Glades is really fast with their shipping. Remember to get the one in the link that I posted. I cannot remember the reason but the cheaper one is
not the one that you want.
If you follow my recommendations, let me know how it works for you.
