Gunsmithing Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

N

NRose8989

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Minuteman
Dec 21, 2009
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#1
I'm new here so please bear with me.

I recently made a very good trade deal and picked up a Savage 10FCP. The only problem is that the stock is a bit "rough" around the edges and I'd like to clean it up.

My stock (McMillan A3?) has a small ding at the base of the stock pictured below.

9704dd66.jpg


The dent appears to have made it down to the fiberglass. My question is what should I use to fill the gap specifically? I was thinking some type of epoxy would do the trick. Once done, I figured I could sand it smooth and at the same time re-finish my stock.

The paint of the rifle now is Krylon but I'm wanting to do this right and use Cerakote. My only concern is the buttpad and I can't figure out how to remove it or if it will be damaged during the curing process. Cerakote can be cured at 200 degree (I think?) for a longer period but I'm not sure if the buttpad will survive the heat.

Any Ideas?
 
#2
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

Since the stock is painted just about any good filler will work. Leave the butt pad on, I cure stocks at 200 or below for an hour or more with no issues in regards to the pad.
 
#4
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

You could use MarineTex or any epoxy for that matter, JB Weld would do the trick. As HateCA mentioned you could even use body filler whick is much easier to sand. You will need to play around with the texture if you want to make the area blend better.

Kirk R
 
#5
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

THIS is exactly why I paint every gun that leaves my shop when we put the stock on it.

One has to understand how stocks get made to realize what's going on.

You have a cavity mold. You release it, apply gel coat and lay in your wetted fabric. From here it gets shoved into a bag and a vacuum is pulled to allow atmospheric pressure to "squish" the fabric into the gel coat and follow the contours/features in the mold.

The issue is there's places where the fabric doesn't conform. It can be for any number of reasons, but it happens often. The problem is nobody knows it until this happens. A bubble of air is trapped between the gel coat and the fabric. The two harden and it's stuck there. Then you bang your stock into something and instead of scratching it, you get a big nasty canker sore.

Every gun I stock gets the hammer treatment first. I have a 4oz ballpeen hammer that goes to work looking for this stuff prior to doing anything else. From here its filled, sanded, and then the work starts.

To fix this:

Since its gotta be painted anyway, get out the hammer and find all of the others first. Better to just do it once.

Get yourself some 15 minute epoxy. Hobby shops that deal in RC planes is a great source for it. Get a box of Arm/Hammer baking soda. Mix the epoxy first and then add the baking soda to it till it stiffens up to about the consistency of peanut butter.

Stuff it into the voids and put some heat on it with a hair dryer. (hot air guns are too hot and will scorch the stock.) The warm air will help any little air bubbles to rise and pop like a pimple, leaving a dense mix of filler.

Sand it back to blend and repaint the stock.

Easy fix that'll last. Baking soda is awesome for a filler material in little stuff like this. Sands out really nice and is super cheap. lasts forever too.

Good luck

C.
 
#6
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

Does McMillan not warranty something like that? I know there is no way they could catch that in quality control, but it is clearly a manufacturing defect. Not a big deal at all and I wouldn't even ship one back if they did cover it. I just figured a company like that would have a pretty solid warranty.....
 
#8
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

That looks more cosmetic than structural. Some Devcon 10110 will do the trick. IMO every shooter should have a small tub of Devcon, its like the shooters duct tape. The 10110 has a consistency like frosting, so it sets up nicely.
 
#9
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

Yes, I'm sure McMillan will take care of it, but you still pay for shipping, and they will hold on to it for a bit, as you will not be there only work. I would do as Chad, or any of the others already said, and fix it your self. Any of the prescribed ways above will work fine. Kinda like Chads idea. I think I'll give it a try on the next repair, and see for my self.
 
#10
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sawman556</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm sure McM would take care of it but you might have to pay for the paint job. </div></div>

+1 = Send it back to McMillan to be repaired, they'll hook you up. Call and talk to Ryan Melecon at McMillan - he's a good guy and will get it handled for you.
 
#11
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: C. Dixon</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Baking soda is awesome for a filler material in little stuff like this. Sands out really nice and is super cheap. lasts forever too.
C. </div></div>

Great tip. I've used microballoons, carbon powder, and flock before but I never would have even thought of Baking Soda. Thank you.
 
#12
Re: Stock repair and refinishing considerations?

My local hardware store sells a putty epoxy stick that's labeled Wood Repair. Looks like almost a perfect match for that color, sets in 10 minutes, just cut off a slice, knead until the color is even, and stuff it in. Sand to contour, done. I've even used the stuff to do a really fast bedding job to an old Mossberg 22 target rifle. The stuff also can be stained to walnut with Brownells epoxy dye-- just need a matchhead sized dab of the dye to stain a tablespoon sized chunk of the epoxy stick.
 
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