So I just had jDucos install Terry Cross adjustable hardware in a McMillan HTG. Craftsmanship is great. This is the first adjustable stock Ive owned and when I raise the cheek piece to create what I think is proper cheek weld (Cheek bone resting firm on cheek piece) I noticed that I raised the cheek piece over an inch and a half. It looks ridiculous! Do I misunderstand cheek weld? Is this just because I have a small head/face? On my hunting rifle stocked in a McMillan Compact, I have more of a "molar weld" the top of the stock touches my lower jaw. Im 5'9 170 lbs, smallish head "dont look good in ball caps" If I have to create this much of a lift to create proper cheek weld, I'd rather not try to pursue it. Never had accuracy problems in hunting rifles. Thoughts?
Advanced Marksmanship Struggling with cheek weld
- Thread starter idiot face
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It'll be different for everyone. Get in position on the rifle and close your eyes. When you open them, are you looking through the center of the scope? If not, move it until you are. Wherever it ends up doing that will be the correct height, who cares what it looks like. No idea what sort of rifle you are using, but lower scope rings may also be an option.
With your previous rifles you've adjusted your position to fit the existing stock. There had to be a reason you had Joe do the work, so my guess (only a guess) is that at least for your HTG you weren't comfortable with the cheek weld and needed the adjustment. I wouldn't be as concerned with how it "looks" as opposed to how you feel behind the rifle. There is a reason why that KMW Loggerhead has a wide adjustment range, and actually an inch and a half isn't so severe.
OK cool Thanks for the advice guys. I've watched a few youtube videos of Frank Galli shooting. I've noticed that the cheek piece on the AIAX 338 lapua was set pretty high. I guess proper cheek-weld is a byproduct of your anatomy. It just thew me a little bit because I rarely see rifles with the cheek piece adjusted so high.
Most any stock will have some drop to it, at the comb, heel and toe. Some much more than others. The early Fajan straight thumb hole comes to mind vs the huge drops on the early Shutzen rifles. There are all sorts of combs as well. Think the M1A with its more or less straight stock in terms of the comb and the very popular European stocks with the molded, inset cheek pieces.
Now add in the differences in facial structure, neck length and thickness and the general flexibility of the shooters and it is a wonder any stock works.
The good news is that with the exception of left hand/right hand, most stocks can be made to work, more or less, and adjustable stocks make the task easier for all provided you have some idea what you are doing.
The secret is to get everything positioned so that when you mount your rifle, in you normal shooting position, everything lines up with no stress or strain anywhere in the position. The less stress, the more accurate your shooting will become. Positional shooting will compromise this somewhat as differences in butt stock to shoulder position can vary a little as can the angle of the neck between prone and standing. Some compromise should be acceptable. In the ideal, with your rifle mounted, you want minimum strain in the neck and shoulder area. You should be able to hold this position for a long time and not get tired. Your eye needs to be aligned directly behind the scope and centered vertically and horizontally within the eye box of the scope without having to force your cheek down into the stock or stretch your head out like an Emu to get there. The average person should have no problems with this. If you are outside average dimensions you may have to work a little harder. The same stock is not going to work for a guy with a 13x29 shirt size as a guy with 22x30 or 18x36 shirt.
Now add in the differences in facial structure, neck length and thickness and the general flexibility of the shooters and it is a wonder any stock works.
The good news is that with the exception of left hand/right hand, most stocks can be made to work, more or less, and adjustable stocks make the task easier for all provided you have some idea what you are doing.
The secret is to get everything positioned so that when you mount your rifle, in you normal shooting position, everything lines up with no stress or strain anywhere in the position. The less stress, the more accurate your shooting will become. Positional shooting will compromise this somewhat as differences in butt stock to shoulder position can vary a little as can the angle of the neck between prone and standing. Some compromise should be acceptable. In the ideal, with your rifle mounted, you want minimum strain in the neck and shoulder area. You should be able to hold this position for a long time and not get tired. Your eye needs to be aligned directly behind the scope and centered vertically and horizontally within the eye box of the scope without having to force your cheek down into the stock or stretch your head out like an Emu to get there. The average person should have no problems with this. If you are outside average dimensions you may have to work a little harder. The same stock is not going to work for a guy with a 13x29 shirt size as a guy with 22x30 or 18x36 shirt.
many people try to force the issue with mounting the rifle...should be a completely relaxed process. Basically, what I was taught was to fall asleep on the rifle...close your eyes, mount, completely relax...do this several times to verify consistency...open your eyes the last time. If you're having to fidget in order to get properly mounted...the fit is wrong.
no one can tell you what is right and more often than not what you think is right when you play with adjustment at the house will be wrong after some time actually shooting...don't be afraid to play with adjustment.
Hint...always do fit with your eyes closed. If you bring the rifle to you or you to the rifle with your eyes open, you'll tend to mount the rifle in a way that allows you to easily see through the scope "as is"...you DO NOT want this. You want to mount the rifle in such a manor that you naturally meld with it...you can only do this with your eyes shut. Also...having your eyes shut will allow you to feel the mount better than with your eyes open...senses are better with your eyes shut (kind of like why your hearing is better at night).
hope this helps...
no one can tell you what is right and more often than not what you think is right when you play with adjustment at the house will be wrong after some time actually shooting...don't be afraid to play with adjustment.
Hint...always do fit with your eyes closed. If you bring the rifle to you or you to the rifle with your eyes open, you'll tend to mount the rifle in a way that allows you to easily see through the scope "as is"...you DO NOT want this. You want to mount the rifle in such a manor that you naturally meld with it...you can only do this with your eyes shut. Also...having your eyes shut will allow you to feel the mount better than with your eyes open...senses are better with your eyes shut (kind of like why your hearing is better at night).
hope this helps...
Thank you very much to every one who has responded. This is very good to hear!! I am going to move forward with my build using this stock.
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