Sun Shade
- Thread starter Klemm
- Start date
It technically should because it will allow light from a wider angle to be gathered by the objective. The opposite will be that as the sun is lower in the sky you may experience more washout depending on the direction you are shooting. If you are shooting toward the setting sun, now you have more chance of seeing it.
Best thing to do is go out around sunset and see the difference for yourself. Decide if the difference is worth it.
Best thing to do is go out around sunset and see the difference for yourself. Decide if the difference is worth it.
One of my blinds face west and I leave it on until sun is down then take it off and sometimes it seems to brighten things up a bit but other times I can’t tell it made a difference.
It depends.
I have a 6-24x50 Crossfire 2 AO that has a front objective glass (measured) of 54.9mm. I guess inside it is limited to around 50mm.
The 50mm Sun Shade will thread into my 56mm Athlon side focus. The AO objective adds tube diameter.
The Vortex 100mm sun shield has an INTERNAL diameter at the mouth of 59mm.
The viewing angle with the sun shield is the arctan (of the true aperture minus the sun shield mouth )( divided by shield length).
Huh? What?
The mouth being 9mm larger than the advertised objective aperture gives a viewing angle of about 5.14 degrees.
The specs for the 6-24X50AO state field of view is 17.3 feet at 100 yards (at 6 power) and 4.4 feet at 100 yards (at 24 power).
The field of view is always less than the 5 degree limit of the sun shield. No light from within the scope's field of view will be cut off by the sun shield.
Extraneous light will be cut off making it LOOK like you lost some brightness, while gaining contrast.
What about Your scope?
EDIT: The front glass is recessed about 22mm from the front. With the 100mm Sun Shield the obstruction length is 122mm.
9mm diameter increase over 122mm.
The field of view calculation with the Sun Shield should be 4.2 degree.
I have a 6-24x50 Crossfire 2 AO that has a front objective glass (measured) of 54.9mm. I guess inside it is limited to around 50mm.
The 50mm Sun Shade will thread into my 56mm Athlon side focus. The AO objective adds tube diameter.
The Vortex 100mm sun shield has an INTERNAL diameter at the mouth of 59mm.
The viewing angle with the sun shield is the arctan (of the true aperture minus the sun shield mouth )( divided by shield length).
Huh? What?
The mouth being 9mm larger than the advertised objective aperture gives a viewing angle of about 5.14 degrees.
The specs for the 6-24X50AO state field of view is 17.3 feet at 100 yards (at 6 power) and 4.4 feet at 100 yards (at 24 power).
The field of view is always less than the 5 degree limit of the sun shield. No light from within the scope's field of view will be cut off by the sun shield.
Extraneous light will be cut off making it LOOK like you lost some brightness, while gaining contrast.
What about Your scope?
EDIT: The front glass is recessed about 22mm from the front. With the 100mm Sun Shield the obstruction length is 122mm.
9mm diameter increase over 122mm.
The field of view calculation with the Sun Shield should be 4.2 degree.
Last edited:
How much light does your ARD cost you?
One thing that tends to Fool us is the automatic exposure control behind your eye (the brain).
The total amount of light passing through your eye lens controls iris size.
Extra light can help sharpen an image by shrinking the aperture (iris), especially in dim light when the iris tries to open fully.
Sometimes the outer field of view is distracting. Especially when there is movement outside your field of interest.
Objective evaluation of scope brightness, vignetting, or edge sharpness is difficult without some measuring device that doesn't automatically compensate for changes.
A histogram of light intensity, and contrast sharpness across the field of view is less subjective.
As far as the original topic of this thread, Measure your clear objective, and see if mathematically your Sun Shield restricts your field of view, usually dimming the outer edges at lowest power first (wide angle).
Good thing no one commented about Small Eye Boxes of high magnification scopes
One thing that tends to Fool us is the automatic exposure control behind your eye (the brain).
The total amount of light passing through your eye lens controls iris size.
Extra light can help sharpen an image by shrinking the aperture (iris), especially in dim light when the iris tries to open fully.
Sometimes the outer field of view is distracting. Especially when there is movement outside your field of interest.
Objective evaluation of scope brightness, vignetting, or edge sharpness is difficult without some measuring device that doesn't automatically compensate for changes.
A histogram of light intensity, and contrast sharpness across the field of view is less subjective.
As far as the original topic of this thread, Measure your clear objective, and see if mathematically your Sun Shield restricts your field of view, usually dimming the outer edges at lowest power first (wide angle).
Good thing no one commented about Small Eye Boxes of high magnification scopes
Last edited:
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