Night Vision Super yoter r

[Mncoyotehnter]

I sight it in and am about 1 inch left of center, I zoom tje scope up to max magnification which should move my windage adjustment like .13 inches per click but after I do one click and reshoot I'm 1 inch right of target, then I move back to my original windage zero and I'm back to my 1 inch left, I'm shooting off rear bag and bipod on windless nights, I've tested this on multiple nights with the same results, anybody had a problem like this on their super yoter R I would think I should be able to dial my windage right in with the fine adjustment I'm suppose to have?

 

[dirtytough]

Yep mine wouldn’t adjust properly whether I was on 1x or 4x. And it would randomly lose zero. The control board was bad.

 

[kirsch]

I use the SY a lot. I don't trust the micro-adjustments on any thermal scope. I always adjust at 1x and sometimes 2x if I need a slightly smaller micro-adjustment. I have seen some odd changes when trying to make tiny adjustments. If using 2x max for adjustments, then you are at roughly .27 adjustments, so the most you would be off is .135". I can live with that. You are welcome to contact Bering support to see if they have found any issues why the scope isn't moving at the smaller increments. I can tell you after over 400 coyotes over the last year, I haven't found a better scope for the money.

 

[Mncoyotehnter]

I will give it another try, and I agree on the super yoter r being a good scope for the money

 

[Mncoyotehnter]

Missed a coyote at 227 yards off my tripod rock steady, no wind, went to range to check zero, zero was off 1.5 inches from where it was before, try to adjust at 1x but every adjustment on windage moves 1.5 inches not .54, anybody else on here have this?, I see some people have had same problem on predator masters.

 

[kirsch]

Mncoyotehnter, I monitor lots of forums including the Facebook Bering Optics Users Groups plus help with customer service for Night Goggles so it allows me to see the potential for issues. I also personally own a Super Yoter which has accounted for over 400 coyotes in the last year. I am not aware of any Super Yoter being returned or sent to Bering (purchased from Night Goggles) due to Point of Impact moving, and we sell a ton of them. The LaRue mount has been super dependable as has the Super Yoter. With that said, the number one reason I have seen POI shifts (especially vertical) is due to the thermal being mounted too far back. For this newly designed Larue mount, the front of the mount should be 6 slots in from the back as a minimum. If you cannot get it that far forward, you will need some type of riser or extension, or it will not hold zero. Other things to watch for are handle tension, so make sure the handle tension is set to keep it nice and snug.

Another common issue I see is people shooting off bags and then missing in the field. Bags are great to get it close but make sure to check POI off your tripod. Even free-floated guns often shoot different off tripods than bags. I know mine do.

For your target, try not to use items that bloom such as hot hands as it is harder to get a precise zero due to the image blooming due to the heat dispensation.

As the weather gets colder, you start to see topics like this pop on various sites on various thermals. There were known issues in the past (Pulsar Trail V1s) where POI was moving significantly in cold weather. Lots of issues with POI are gun/ammo related as velocities and other factors change as the weather changes.

If you have checked the same gun with same ammo with similar temp swings using a different scope, and it is not moving and your scope is at least 6 slots forward and your handle is tight, I would contact your dealer and/or contact Bering and send it in.

I already talked about the adjustments, as I don't have any further suggestions as long as you are zeroing at 100 since 1" at 100 is 2" at 200, etc.

 

[dirtytough]

Missed a coyote at 227 yards off my tripod rock steady, no wind, went to range to check zero, zero was off 1.5 inches from where it was before, try to adjust at 1x but every adjustment on windage moves 1.5 inches not .54, anybody else on here have this?, I see some people have had same problem on predator masters.

Mine lost zero multiple times and wouldn’t adjust properly. You need to send it in.

 

[Mncoyotehnter]

Dirty tough after you sent it in do the adjustments correspond with the magnification increase 1x=.54,4x=.13? And does it also hold zero now?

 

[Mncoyotehnter]

I just can't stand not having confidence in it after walking into the middle of sections and have them come in only to miss them and wonder what the hell, worst feeling ever, might just use my lwts as a clip on the rest of tje year, that thing seems to be very reliable, just not as much as field of view as a dedicated thermal sight, hence the reason I bought the super yoter.

 

[dirtytough]

Dirty tough after you sent it in do the adjustments correspond with the magnification increase 1x=.54,4x=.13? And does it also hold zero now?

When I first got it new it adjusted properly. Then the zero was off and it never adjusted correctly again. I had to re zero multiple times.

Now it adjusts properly after sending it in and them replacing the control board. I’ve only shot it once to zero since getting it back. It’ll be another week or so before I can test it since I’m in Colorado for 3rd season.

 

[Mncoyotehnter]

As for the adjustments not moving the correct amount when on a specific power bering said when in the zeroing menu if you hit all three buttons at the same time you can adjust how much each pixel moves the reticle, i have not tried it yet but if anybody else is having the same problem you may want to see if thats a option, i dont recall reading that in the manual, but i may have missed it.

 

[kirsch]

Pressing three buttons at one time should switch the scope from CM to Inches or from Inches to CM depending on which value is showing. The result of how far the reticle moves is the same, it is just the value shows in cm or inches.

Another thing I forgot to mention is you can try a factory reset. I have seen this fix some odd issues. Write down your X, Y coordinates, do a factory reset, and check your zero again. You most likely will not lose the values, but it is good to have it written down in case.

 

[dirtytough]

Another thing I forgot to mention is you can try a factory reset. I have seen this fix some odd issues. Write down your X, Y coordinates, do a factory reset, and check your zero again. You most likely will not lose the values, but it is good to have it written down in case.

I tried a factory reset and I do believe my coordinates stayed. Definitely should write them down just in case though it go’s back to zero/zero.

 

[secondofangle2]

I’ve been checking out the super yoters and noticed several spelling/grammatical errors on the Bering Optics website. Anybody know why they would be so sloppy? Are they legit? The whole webpage strikes of amateurism

I also can’t easily find a clear answer as to where they’re made. All around, I smell the C-word. China

 

[kirsch]

When I give my recommendations to people, one of the things I tell him is, Bering Optics spends very little on their marketing, which includes their website and also instruction manuals. If you want, beautiful fit, and finish, get Pulsar. However, it does not reflect on the quality of the product itself.

The sensor is from China as it is an i-Ray sensor in the Yoters. Bering Optics is an American company headquartered in Texas with an assembly and service facility in California. They bring in parts from all over the world and assemble them here in the US and service them in the US.

 

[secondofangle2]

Thanks for the reply. Are we talking about two or 3 things?

Website and instruction manual;

Fit and finish;

And product quality?

I’m confused

 

[kirsch]

As I stated, it does not impact product quality. As you said, the website looks amateurish, the instruction manuals can have misspelled words, and the packaging can leave something to be desired.

Bering is our #1 selling brand. I test all the brands we carry, and I personally own only Bering Optics products. If they were not good, I would not own them.

They typically sell organically due to word-of-mouth as satisfied customers recommend them to others

 

[shields shtr]

With that said, the number one reason I have seen POI shifts (especially vertical) is due to the thermal being mounted too far back. For this newly designed Larue mount, the front of the mount should be 6 slots in from the back as a minimum

Just to clarify, this means 6 forward of the very rear of a pic rail on an AR type rifle? My buddy has a Hogster I believe, and that thing will not hold zero at all. We spent a couple weeks down in TX last year and we had to re-zero his scope every time we went out. He sent it back to Bering and after some back and forth got his back. It seems better now, but something just isn't right with that thing. Still seems like the zero "wanders" for lack of a better term.

 

[kirsch]

Just to clarify, this means 6 forward of the very rear of a pic rail on an AR type rifle? My buddy has a Hogster I believe, and that thing will not hold zero at all. We spent a couple weeks down in TX last year and we had to re-zero his scope every time we went out. He sent it back to Bering and after some back and forth got his back. It seems better now, but something just isn't right with that thing. Still seems like the zero "wanders" for lack of a better term.

For the LaRue mount yes. 6 slot minimum but that is to the front of the mount as that is the rail post on this mount.

If the bering qd mount, the rail post should be at least 4 from the rear. For either, these numbers or more forward, should be fine.