Re: Suppressor cleaning !!!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Witch Doctor</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its pretty simple, how do you know what has been cleaned out. You can't disassemble the Evo, and soaking it in a hot soap bath will just turn the carbon build up to a sludge, given that the hot water has time to loosen the build up, and since you can't take a brush to the baffles or visually inspect them, how do you know what's left inside, or where its at inside the can. AAC has instructions for when (Sparingly) and how to clean their products, and they don't need to be cleaned like a rimfire can. Your can isn't building up lead inside it like a 22LR, and harsh chemicals will jujst deteriorate the can. The Evo's internals are aluminum, harsh chemicals + soft material = waste of money. Ever wonder why rimfire cans are able to be disassembled and centerfires cans usually aren't.
Lead Build Up, what lead build up are you going to get from a .45, are you shooting wad-cutters.
</div></div>
Never seen a can fired on a centerfire rifle with cast bullets have you? Shoot enough of them and you'll see the same effect.
The first time we tried full power loads with a 7.62x54R in a can that was setup to be taken apart the outter tube and aft cap were about the only things that could be salvaged, EVERYTHING else was bent/twisted/F'd up from the blast/pressure wave. That's the beauty of having a machine shop and a Form 1, it didn't cost much to fix and I learned a good lesson.
On using Diesel. How much pressure do you think is created by lighting diesel fumes in a space with limited airspace that still has exhaust ports on it? Liquids don't burn, vapors burn. Don't worry about the "BOOM" idea in a can, there isn't enough airspace and vaporspace to cause it to KB. It takes muzzle blasts that are in excess of 20 ATM, burning diesel or lighter fluid fumes won't create that. This isn't a contained, variable volume vessel like a diesel cylinder head.
If you boiled the can over a flame and the water is always in the pot, how is it possible to get the boiling water (and therefore the suppressor) over boiling water temp? Basic temperature balance guys, it doesn't work that way. As long as you don't boil it dry you don't have anything to worry about, even with AL 3003 annealed stuff that's as soft as chewing gum.
Carbon sludge is not going to clog things up to where the can is going to come apart, flush the thing out well with water (ever heard of a wet suppressor? Water is a classic filler for wet cans) and then shake it out to let it drain well. If you're really worried about it being dry inside let it sit in the same closet that the house's heating unit is housed in (not sitting anywhere on the unit though) and leave it for a few hours. It will dry out.
If you can't wait that long, pour some rubbing alcohol in there, shake it around and pour it all out. Then let it dry for 20 mins, maybe blow air through it if you need to feel better.
Check for an obstruction (again, this is to make you feel warm and fuzzy inside) and run the thing.
The warning about ultrasonics IS RIGHT! Ultrasonic cleaners will break welds, I've seen it happen in many little welded parts over years spent making stuff for firearms, race cars, motorcycles, and airplanes. Steer clear of them on welded cans.
James, here's the EASIEST thing to do if you really want to clean that can...
Use the Slip 2000, rinse it, shake it out, run it.
