I'd skip the go and no-go gauges. It's not like you're able to adjust anything once the shouldered barrel is screwed on. Trust that the gunsmith did it right and go shoot.
Other things to add to the list... Copper based anti-seize for the barrel threads, torque wrench for the action so you can hit a repeatable value. I use a thin piece of cardboard wrapped around the barrel to prevent the vise from marring the barrel. Torque wrench in inch/lbs for tightening action screws, if you don't already have one.
One other tip for maintaining a repeatable zero and offset would be to have a consistent procedure for putting the action back in the stock/chassis. A bedded action helps with this. My approach is to put rifle in stock with both screws barely tightened, position the action vertically so that the recoil lug is seated firmly, that the action is centered in the channel, etc. Then tighten front action screw to 20 in/lb, bounce the rifle on the buttpad a time or two, tighten rear action screw to 20lb, bounce again. Then tighten front action screw to 60 in/lb, bounce, rear screw to 45lb, bounce. Not sure if all that is needed, but doing it the same way each time to me seems to help ensure that the gun is settled and ready to shoot on the first shot on the new barrel.
