Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? I was thinking of cutting a channel in the forward area under the barrel and hollowing out the buttstock area and filling with melted lead. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. TIA
Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
- Thread starter BigtimeAub
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Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? </div></div>
You mean being a mere mortal you actually shoot a 22LR more than once in a row? I thought that was only done in movies as the recoil is so harsh as to break ones shoulder and all.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? </div></div>
You mean being a mere mortal you actually shoot a 22LR more than once in a row? I thought that was only done in movies as the recoil is so harsh as to break ones shoulder and all.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
You could add weight, lead shot may be a better option. If you remove the buttpad, take a Forstner bit and bore a hole or two and fill it full of shot, you would have plenty of weight.
I opted to make my 10/22 stocks out of fiberglass for this reason, hardwood can be strong, but it will never have the weight and feel of fiberglass.
Kirk R
You could add weight, lead shot may be a better option. If you remove the buttpad, take a Forstner bit and bore a hole or two and fill it full of shot, you would have plenty of weight.
I opted to make my 10/22 stocks out of fiberglass for this reason, hardwood can be strong, but it will never have the weight and feel of fiberglass.
Kirk R
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? I was thinking of cutting a channel in the forward area under the barrel and hollowing out the buttstock area and filling with melted lead. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. TIA </div></div>
If you are trying to minimize the recoil on a .22LR even further I suggest taking the stock apart like you suggested and dropping in an air rifle action. If the BBs are still hammering your shoulder see if you can get a good shoulder wedge with a pillow between the stock and your shoulder and a tampon in your pants
In all seriousness, you could use a big drill bit, say 1/2" and drill holes under the barrel in the foreward part of the stock. Fill it with BBs and Devcon to weigh the front end down. Or just buy a good rest that lets you lock the front end down on the bench.
Rich
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? I was thinking of cutting a channel in the forward area under the barrel and hollowing out the buttstock area and filling with melted lead. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. TIA </div></div>
If you are trying to minimize the recoil on a .22LR even further I suggest taking the stock apart like you suggested and dropping in an air rifle action. If the BBs are still hammering your shoulder see if you can get a good shoulder wedge with a pillow between the stock and your shoulder and a tampon in your pants
In all seriousness, you could use a big drill bit, say 1/2" and drill holes under the barrel in the foreward part of the stock. Fill it with BBs and Devcon to weigh the front end down. Or just buy a good rest that lets you lock the front end down on the bench.
Rich
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
don't forget to add a brake.
I thought my tacticool stock was heavy without any mods. I added an adjustable buttplate and its even heavier. I wish someone made a nice composite stock for the mk2.
don't forget to add a brake.
I thought my tacticool stock was heavy without any mods. I added an adjustable buttplate and its even heavier. I wish someone made a nice composite stock for the mk2.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
Adding weight to a stock is a fairly common practice, although it has nothing to do with reducing recoil. Adding weight to a stock has everything to do stabilizing a rifle from wandering too much while trying to hold sight picture on a target. This is especially useful for offhand shooting.
Adding weight to a stock is a fairly common practice, although it has nothing to do with reducing recoil. Adding weight to a stock has everything to do stabilizing a rifle from wandering too much while trying to hold sight picture on a target. This is especially useful for offhand shooting.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
Balance is everything for positional shooting. But recoil with a 22lr in any configuration is pretty much non-existent. Also, be careful of how much material you remove from the stock and from where. There not the strongest stocks in the first place
Balance is everything for positional shooting. But recoil with a 22lr in any configuration is pretty much non-existent. Also, be careful of how much material you remove from the stock and from where. There not the strongest stocks in the first place
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
Drill & fill works just fine, both in the buttstock and forearm areas. Lead shot works well, bedded in your favorite compound, and it won't burn or char your stock material like molten lead will.
Adding weight for stability or to duplicate the heft/feel of another rifle are both worthy reasons to do this. If your goal is to reduce recoil, then you will be better served by trying to figure out why the recoil is disturbing your sight picture, creating physical discomfort, etc.
The derisive comments posted above are primarily due to the liklihood that someone so sensitive to recoil is likely to be a troll, and I cannot rule out that possibility, my self.
Drill & fill works just fine, both in the buttstock and forearm areas. Lead shot works well, bedded in your favorite compound, and it won't burn or char your stock material like molten lead will.
Adding weight for stability or to duplicate the heft/feel of another rifle are both worthy reasons to do this. If your goal is to reduce recoil, then you will be better served by trying to figure out why the recoil is disturbing your sight picture, creating physical discomfort, etc.
The derisive comments posted above are primarily due to the liklihood that someone so sensitive to recoil is likely to be a troll, and I cannot rule out that possibility, my self.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
What are you trying to do with the rifle? Shoot off hand or just get it to plant better in a rest or bag?
Just based on my personal experience, if you are going to be shooting off hand, I'd suggest that you try adding a little weight to the front only. If shooting off of a rest or bag, try adding weight to the front and back equally. Having the front heavy and the back light made my rig act weird for me. Having the back heavy and the front light was a total no go; but that was just for me.
As mentioned above, be careful. The Boyd's stock is made of some light and flimsy wood. When I bedded my action, I actually relieved a lot of the wood so that I could fill it with JB Weld to get some of the flex out of it. It's better now, but still not ideal.
What are you trying to do with the rifle? Shoot off hand or just get it to plant better in a rest or bag?
Just based on my personal experience, if you are going to be shooting off hand, I'd suggest that you try adding a little weight to the front only. If shooting off of a rest or bag, try adding weight to the front and back equally. Having the front heavy and the back light made my rig act weird for me. Having the back heavy and the front light was a total no go; but that was just for me.
As mentioned above, be careful. The Boyd's stock is made of some light and flimsy wood. When I bedded my action, I actually relieved a lot of the wood so that I could fill it with JB Weld to get some of the flex out of it. It's better now, but still not ideal.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
I'm just trying to plant the rifle better on a bipod with rear bag for 150-200yds and effectively remove as much error from the rifle itself as possible. I was thinking of trying to add weight based on center of gravity and try to balance out the rifle. I'm definitely no expert in this field but based on my experience with rifles and 155mm Howitzers (completely different subject, I know), balancing out the rifle and adding additional weight while keeping it balanced (although not so much weight as to remove all recoil and cause the entire rifle w/barrel to become rigid) will help to fine tune the harmonics of the barrel thus increasing accuracy.
When I shoot prone with bipod and bag, I like to have the buttstock against my shoulder but I don't actually put any pressure forward onto the rifle itself. I also try to keep as little pressure on the rifle itself with my trigger hand as to not have any effect on the shot other than just trigger squeeze. I then just use my off-hand to control the rear bag to achieve proper sight picture.
It's always been my understanding that finding the perfect combination of posture/position with rifle harmonics and proper breathing/trigger control typically results in the most accurate shooting. Maybe I'm wrong. I don't know. Maybe I'm just not able to accurately convey my question in a way to get my thoughts across as well as I should. Just looking for a little bit of help.
But thanks for all the responses, even the smart@$$ comments. No, really. Thanks.
I'm just trying to plant the rifle better on a bipod with rear bag for 150-200yds and effectively remove as much error from the rifle itself as possible. I was thinking of trying to add weight based on center of gravity and try to balance out the rifle. I'm definitely no expert in this field but based on my experience with rifles and 155mm Howitzers (completely different subject, I know), balancing out the rifle and adding additional weight while keeping it balanced (although not so much weight as to remove all recoil and cause the entire rifle w/barrel to become rigid) will help to fine tune the harmonics of the barrel thus increasing accuracy.
When I shoot prone with bipod and bag, I like to have the buttstock against my shoulder but I don't actually put any pressure forward onto the rifle itself. I also try to keep as little pressure on the rifle itself with my trigger hand as to not have any effect on the shot other than just trigger squeeze. I then just use my off-hand to control the rear bag to achieve proper sight picture.
It's always been my understanding that finding the perfect combination of posture/position with rifle harmonics and proper breathing/trigger control typically results in the most accurate shooting. Maybe I'm wrong. I don't know. Maybe I'm just not able to accurately convey my question in a way to get my thoughts across as well as I should. Just looking for a little bit of help.
But thanks for all the responses, even the smart@$$ comments. No, really. Thanks.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
best way to stabilize the rifle is to balance the majority of your weight at the extreme ends of the rifle. It's harder to twist a 20lb dumbbell than it is to twist a 20lb ball...simple physics.
Luckily in a rifle, you have this massive weight hanging out on the front end anyway (the barrel) and you should be able to affect balance and "pointability" by adding weight to the extreme end of the butt. I did this with my Marlin 882SSV, it helped tremendously. the SSV has a heavy barrel and i added weight to give the rifle a better balance while still keeping the tupperware stock. as soon as the baggie filled with pea gravel, lead and epoxy set up, it slides right out of the butt when the plate is removed but it stays put just fine and does not rattle around at all. I have one small piece of foam in there to keep it pressed into place and keep any slop from allowing it to move. I thought long and hard about putting a mercury recoil dampener in the stock, mounted with sprayfoam (again, in a baggie to make it removable) but my cheap ass ended up with rocks from the driveway and the lead shot from some waterlogged shotgun shells. Total weight added was about 1.1 lbs and the first time i shot it, i wondered why it took me so long to do the modification.
My groups shrank by 25-40 percent. Using Hornady 30gr VMAX loads. I shot this target after a week of playing with the newly weighted rifle.
best way to stabilize the rifle is to balance the majority of your weight at the extreme ends of the rifle. It's harder to twist a 20lb dumbbell than it is to twist a 20lb ball...simple physics.
Luckily in a rifle, you have this massive weight hanging out on the front end anyway (the barrel) and you should be able to affect balance and "pointability" by adding weight to the extreme end of the butt. I did this with my Marlin 882SSV, it helped tremendously. the SSV has a heavy barrel and i added weight to give the rifle a better balance while still keeping the tupperware stock. as soon as the baggie filled with pea gravel, lead and epoxy set up, it slides right out of the butt when the plate is removed but it stays put just fine and does not rattle around at all. I have one small piece of foam in there to keep it pressed into place and keep any slop from allowing it to move. I thought long and hard about putting a mercury recoil dampener in the stock, mounted with sprayfoam (again, in a baggie to make it removable) but my cheap ass ended up with rocks from the driveway and the lead shot from some waterlogged shotgun shells. Total weight added was about 1.1 lbs and the first time i shot it, i wondered why it took me so long to do the modification.
My groups shrank by 25-40 percent. Using Hornady 30gr VMAX loads. I shot this target after a week of playing with the newly weighted rifle.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
I am in the same boat as you. My tacticool is far too light and moves around way to easy. I did some adjustments to the trigger to help, but more weight is definately needed.
DK
I am in the same boat as you. My tacticool is far too light and moves around way to easy. I did some adjustments to the trigger to help, but more weight is definately needed.
DK
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
Last time I pulled my Boyd's stock, I did notice there was already a nice .75" hole drilled just ahead of the action, and where the bolt rests another hole is present (although filled). I don't personally feel that the Boyd's is too light, in fact its quite a chore to shoot offhand, but I can understand why you want a more solid platform to shoot from. If I wanted to add weight to the stock, I think removing the recoil pad and drilling some channels in the buttsock to add lead to would be a good start.
Last time I pulled my Boyd's stock, I did notice there was already a nice .75" hole drilled just ahead of the action, and where the bolt rests another hole is present (although filled). I don't personally feel that the Boyd's is too light, in fact its quite a chore to shoot offhand, but I can understand why you want a more solid platform to shoot from. If I wanted to add weight to the stock, I think removing the recoil pad and drilling some channels in the buttsock to add lead to would be a good start.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
I epoxied some long bolts into the forend and butt of my tupperware FV-SR stock and it helped with the weight and rigidity of the stock.
I epoxied some long bolts into the forend and butt of my tupperware FV-SR stock and it helped with the weight and rigidity of the stock.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? I was thinking of cutting a channel in the forward area under the barrel and hollowing out the buttstock area and filling with melted lead. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. TIA </div></div>
Identify your goals then identify what will assist them.
If your goal is to have the most accurate .22LR possible, then you need to look at what the .22 benchrest guys do. They are as heavy as possible to still meet weight requirements. The rifles can practically shoot themselves. So if that's what you want, get a good rest and load on the weight.
If your goal is to use your .22LR to enhance your skill with a tactical rifle, then that route is not going to help you. There is little if anything similar between the acts of shooting a benchrest rifle and shooting a tactical rifle.
I shoot a 40XB with a 28" heavy barrel. I do so from a bipod and rear bag because that is how I shoot my tactical rifles. The 28" barrel with match sub-sonic ammo means that the rifle is hyper sensitive to my follow through. If I was just out to punch the smallest groups possible, then I would strap it into my Rock BR, throw a protector rear bag on it and stick some wind flags out every ten yards.
I also shoot a MkII BTVS when I need a rimfire repeater. I do not feel that adding weight to that rifle would in any way contribute to it's role as a tactical rifle trainer.
Now if i was shooting it in some type of discipline that required offhand shooting, then it could use a little extra weight on the nose.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigtimeAub</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone ever tried adding lead weight to a tacticool stock or any other kind of stock for a .22LR in order to minimize recoil as much as possible? I was thinking of cutting a channel in the forward area under the barrel and hollowing out the buttstock area and filling with melted lead. Just wondering if anyone had any thoughts on this. TIA </div></div>
Identify your goals then identify what will assist them.
If your goal is to have the most accurate .22LR possible, then you need to look at what the .22 benchrest guys do. They are as heavy as possible to still meet weight requirements. The rifles can practically shoot themselves. So if that's what you want, get a good rest and load on the weight.
If your goal is to use your .22LR to enhance your skill with a tactical rifle, then that route is not going to help you. There is little if anything similar between the acts of shooting a benchrest rifle and shooting a tactical rifle.
I shoot a 40XB with a 28" heavy barrel. I do so from a bipod and rear bag because that is how I shoot my tactical rifles. The 28" barrel with match sub-sonic ammo means that the rifle is hyper sensitive to my follow through. If I was just out to punch the smallest groups possible, then I would strap it into my Rock BR, throw a protector rear bag on it and stick some wind flags out every ten yards.
I also shoot a MkII BTVS when I need a rimfire repeater. I do not feel that adding weight to that rifle would in any way contribute to it's role as a tactical rifle trainer.
Now if i was shooting it in some type of discipline that required offhand shooting, then it could use a little extra weight on the nose.
Re: Tacticool stock modification...... lead weights...
Since you're shooting off of a bipod, you really can't shoot the rifle as you would from a bag or rest. When I first read your post, I was thinking that you just needed more weight to plant the rifle. A follow up post of yours mentions the use of a bipod.
You also mentioned that you put no forward pressure on the rifle. You really can't shoot off of a bipod like this. You have to load the bipod up if you're going to get any sort of consistency out of the rig.
Maybe what you should do is do some research on the proper technique to employ when shooting off of a bipod. It isn't the same as shooting off of a rest or bag. If you don't load the bipod, you're going to get bounce.
Since you're shooting off of a bipod, you really can't shoot the rifle as you would from a bag or rest. When I first read your post, I was thinking that you just needed more weight to plant the rifle. A follow up post of yours mentions the use of a bipod.
You also mentioned that you put no forward pressure on the rifle. You really can't shoot off of a bipod like this. You have to load the bipod up if you're going to get any sort of consistency out of the rig.
Maybe what you should do is do some research on the proper technique to employ when shooting off of a bipod. It isn't the same as shooting off of a rest or bag. If you don't load the bipod, you're going to get bounce.
