Take off Barrel or New One

[Toftwo]

Alright Cloneheads, (myself included) got a question. Would you rather run a take off barrel or a new one? I'm not talking about a rifle that your only option is to find a NOS or a take off because the barrel isn't manufactured anymore, but something like a M40A1/3/5, MK13, Model 70 or an FBI clone. If you can buy the same barrel i.e. Schneider, Hart, Lilja, or Douglas (and able to have it properly stamped), would you opt for new, or a take off if available? How important is a matching paint scheme to you? Just curious, Thanks!

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

If you can get a USGI takeoff, I’d definitely go for that if it’s in good shape. That’d be awesome to have a tube that’s been used abroad..

 

[Toftwo]

If you can get a USGI takeoff, I’d definitely go for that if it’s in good shape. That’d be awesome to have a tube that’s been used abroad..

Thanks for your input! I’m always on the fence about taking the time and resources it takes to have a clone done and then worry about how it shoots. I’d hate to source a take off barrel and it shoots like a turd, a bad ass turd, but still a turd. I guess that’s the good part about 308’s it takes a while to shoot one out to the point I’d notice, lol

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

@USMCSGT0331 what say you? USGI takeoff barrel vs new?

Also.. curious where do yall get these USGI surplus parts?

 

[Toftwo]

Hunting the parts is the fun part! The post about the M40 barrel on GB got me thinking about the topic. Sometimes you need to set the barrel back to use the take off and time up the markings. Now it’s a bit short, lol no one would notice but I’d know, lol

 

[Forgetful Coyote]

Hunting the parts is the fun part! The post about the M40 barrel on GB got me thinking about the topic. Sometimes you need to set the barrel back to use the take off and time up the markings. Now it’s a bit short, lol no one would notice but I’d know, lol

Whatever you decide to build Id have to imagine @USMCSGT0331 can point you in the right direction. I'd reckon he has the most USGI surplus stuff of anyone on this site honestly..

 

[USMCSGT0331]

Alright Cloneheads, (myself included) got a question. Would you rather run a take off barrel or a new one? I'm not talking about a rifle that your only option is to find a NOS or a take off because the barrel isn't manufactured anymore, but something like a M40A1/3/5, MK13, Model 70 or an FBI clone. If you can buy the same barrel i.e. Schneider, Hart, Lilja, or Douglas (and able to have it properly stamped), would you opt for new, or a take off if available? How important is a matching paint scheme to you? Just curious, Thanks!

Depends on what you want to do with your clone. Typically, if you want a shooter, get a new barrel, and if you want a museum quality clone with as many original parts as you can find, get a take-off barrel. If you find an original NOS barrel, then you get the best of both worlds, like the Mk14 Mod 0/1 barrels that sometimes pop up for sale.

Most of the original M40 barrels I have gauge pretty high, I think one over them was over 7 at the muzzle! You might get lucky and find a take-off barrel that isn't shot out, I have a few original M14 SSR barrels that gauge about 1.5 at the chamber and zero at the muzzle. Some take-off barrels are just pure unobtainium, like the M40A1, Mk13 Mod 3 and Mod 5 barrels, so the only route to go is using a newly produced barrel.

Matching paint always matters to clone collectors, all painted rifles are unique and the paint adds character. I sold over 100 original Mk13 Mod 0 stocks and the painted ones were the most desired by collectors, those kits sold out almost instantly. I still get people asking about painted Mod 0 kits even though those were gone years ago! There's a few M40A5 take-off parts kits floating around, the paint is what makes those kits interesting. All A5's pretty much look the same, green stock and black metal parts. The unique paint makes each one stand out and tells the story of that rifle.

You have to decide what you want out of your clone, how much you want to spend and how long you want to search for parts. Original, rare parts can get very expensive and some stuff can take years to track down. Unless you somehow have an original receiver, the build will always be a clone, no matter how many original parts you have on it. Additionally, your choice in a gunsmith is extremely important. There's no point in having rare, expensive original parts if they're sent to a gunsmith that doesn't have enough knowledge to build your rifle to original specs. Guys like Chris Higgins and Mark Williams have a ton of experience building various clones and they'll make your build perfect!

Just my 2 cents and what I've personally seen in the collector community, I hope some of this info helps you out

 

[Stevo86]

Take off...

 

[Toftwo]

Depends on what you want to do with your clone. Typically, if you want a shooter, get a new barrel, and if you want a museum quality clone with as many original parts as you can find, get a take-off barrel. If you find an original NOS barrel, then you get the best of both worlds, like the Mk14 Mod 0/1 barrels that sometimes pop up for sale.

Most of the original M40 barrels I have gauge pretty high, I think one over them was over 7 at the muzzle! You might get lucky and find a take-off barrel that isn't shot out, I have a few original M14 SSR barrels that gauge about 1.5 at the chamber and zero at the muzzle. Some take-off barrels are just pure unobtainium, like the M40A1, Mk13 Mod 3 and Mod 5 barrels, so the only route to go is using a newly produced barrel.

Matching paint always matters to clone collectors, all painted rifles are unique and the paint adds character. I sold over 100 original Mk13 Mod 0 stocks and the painted ones were the most desired by collectors, those kits sold out almost instantly. I still get people asking about painted Mod 0 kits even though those were gone years ago! There's a few M40A5 take-off parts kits floating around, the paint is what makes those kits interesting. All A5's pretty much look the same, green stock and black metal parts. The unique paint makes each one stand out and tells the story of that rifle.

You have to decide what you want out of your clone, how much you want to spend and how long you want to search for parts. Original, rare parts can get very expensive and some stuff can take years to track down. Unless you somehow have an original receiver, the build will always be a clone, no matter how many original parts you have on it. Additionally, your choice in a gunsmith is extremely important. There's no point in having rare, expensive original parts if they're sent to a gunsmith that doesn't have enough knowledge to build your rifle to original specs. Guys like Chris Higgins and Mark Williams have a ton of experience building various clones and they'll make your build perfect!

Just my 2 cents and what I've personally seen in the collector community, I hope some of this info helps you out

I appreciate the input! I've been playing the game on and off for years and am also of the opinion, it's a clone or tribute. The sum of original take off parts will not change the fact that it was never an issued weapon. With that being said, I enjoy the hunt and if someone is having fun trying to collect as many take off parts as they can, right on! I'm at the opposite end of the spectrum, I like my clones to look un-issued, lol. I'm not a fan of painted up weapons, but that's me. I also like the idea of them being able to shoot as if they were brand new. There are some awesome smiths out there, but they aren't miracle workers, it would kill me if my M40 had a 23" barrel because the builder had to cut that that much off to rechamber, crown and time up the original markings of a wore out barrel I just paid a grand for! At least 308's take a while to shoot out, but I think the round count for an M40A3-5 was 10,000 for a rebuild. I'd imagine schoolhouse guns saw more than that per tube. I think I'd get on Gary's waiting list.

 

[ODCMP]

Both. Build one to shoot and one to display...