Tall target test results and zero issues

pitdog85

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Minuteman
Apr 10, 2017
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Ok so the gun is a 6.5x47l shooting 139 scenars the scope is a swfa 12x.

Let's start with the positive from this test the distance this was shot at was exactly 100metres. The distance between my 2 shots at the bottom and the 2 shots at the top after dialling 10mil is exactly 100cm so the scope tracks spot on.

First negative is the scope is slightly canted as the groups at the bottom are just too the right and at the top they are just too the left. I levelled the scope with the flashlight against the wall method it is fitted with a low profile vortex bubble level thar was leveleled as best I could whilst keeping reticle level against wall. I'm not real keen on adjusting the bubble level as it may make the cant worse as it was very finicky to adjust. Would you adjust the cant based on what you can see here??

The main negative is the fact that I cant zero this god damn thing. I would have put at least 50 rounds down range trying to zero this thing!!!! And I'm getting sick of wasting ammo. I think I have it zero'd and then I go back out a few weeks later and shoot at 100 and the zero is way off. As you can see on the left of target I took 6 shots trying to zero it again and still didn't get it zero'd the windage always seems to be different. I want my zero to be right inside that black dot I'm aiming at. It's a mil mil scope does anyone have this issue or are your rifles zero'd to take out the centre of that dot every time??

The rifle is accurate during a seating depth test at 10 thou off the lands it shot a .14 inch 3 shot group I know 3 shot groups are not the real deal but it at least shows it's a accurate rifle. I just can't get the group exactly over the dot I'm aiming at anyone can help me please so over wasting expensive time consuming reloads.
 

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First thing is first, get a 4 foot level, draw a big level plumb line on a piece of paper or wall or something and level your reticle the correct way. Next, it sounds like your rings are not torqued properly. Make sure everything is torqued properly according to manufacturers specs.
 
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First thing is first, get a 4 foot level, draw a big level plumb line on a piece of paper or wall or something and level your reticle the correct way. Next, it sounds like your rings are not torqued properly. Make sure everything is torqued properly according to manufacturers specs.

Do you mean with the flashlight? Cos I did use a 4 ft level to mark a line on the wall? I did torque rings recently they are nightforce rings torqued to 25inch/lbs but I will recheck that again
 
Do you mean with the flashlight? Cos I did use a 4 ft level to mark a line on the wall? I did torque rings recently they are nightforce rings torqued to 25inch/lbs but I will recheck that again

I have no clue what this flashlight method is. If you draw a plumb line or use a plumb bob, while looking through the scope you line the vertical stadia up directly with your level line and then torque the rings. Be sure to check level with each bolt to be sure it hasn’t slipped. In addition be sure you have the rings mounted correctly to the rifle using forward pressure while tightening the bolts to 65 INCH pounds. That’s where I would start.
 
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I should add that you need to be sure the rifle is level as well while doing this, unless you are purposely adding rifle cant. But no matter what the reticle needs to be level. The plumb line is the easiest method. You can use that tall target. Just put a level on the line and make sure it’s exactly vertical.
 
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Ok thanks I will try recant the scope using a level line on a wall what distance do you reccomend is 50m to close to do this or should it be 100m?

I did the crossbolts to nightforce reccomended 65inch lbs but the actual screws that go into the top of the scope rings were 25inch lbs.
 
Ok thanks I will try recant the scope using a level line on a wall what distance do you reccomend is 50m to close to do this or should it be 100m?

I did the crossbolts to nightforce reccomended 65inch lbs but the actual screws that go into the top of the scope rings were 25inch lbs.

It doesn’t matter really what distance as long as you can get the reticle in focus over the line (which needs to be focused as well). You can do it at 100 meters same as zero that way you won’t have to move it. Then while doing the tall target test you can be sure your reticle is level by lining up the line and then hopefully diagnose shooter induced issues. Hopefully retightening everything fixes your zero problem but if not guess you can tackle that once you are absolutely positive the cant issue is solved.
 
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I have no clue what this flashlight method is. If you draw a plumb line or use a plumb bob, while looking through the scope you line the vertical stadia up directly with your level line and then torque the rings. Be sure to check level with each bolt to be sure it hasn’t slipped. In addition be sure you have the rings mounted correctly to the rifle using forward pressure while tightening the bolts to 65 INCH pounds. That’s where I would start.

Someone posted it here a bit back. It is interesting and it does work.

Square your scope
 
Ok thanks I will try recant the scope using a level line on a wall what distance do you reccomend is 50m to close to do this or should it be 100m?

I did the crossbolts to nightforce reccomended 65inch lbs but the actual screws that go into the top of the scope rings were 25inch lbs.

You are using the NF rings that have 4 bolts on the rings right?
 
I've had pic rings on a Farrel base before with no problems but I don't really want to take that gamble again. I just had a set of NF rings come in the mail today and they were going on a Farrel base but i think I'll do some more research before I do. Farrel is the only place I know of that has a steel 30 moa Savage long action flat back base.
 
what the hell are you guys telling me that the rings and base I have are a mismatch?? Only I could be stupid enough to stuff something up like that if that's the case...... They seem to fit in ok when I put the rings on
 
Picatinny and Weaver are really close to each other and sometimes there are no issues mixing the two , just something to add to the diag process .

The other thing to consider is 1/10 of a mil is approx 1/3 of an inch at 100 yards and without an external adjustment for elevation and windage it may not be possible to get a dead nuts centered in the spot zero because your up against the adjustment range .