Tell me about shot shell reloading.

[neeltburn]

Just looking at shot shell reloaders. Does the cost of the components make it worth while to reload or is it still about the same cost to buy factory loaded shell?

What press would you suggest? I think if I did jump in I would want a progressive press.

So far I have looked at some Aliant load data watched some youtube videos and looked at some of the MEC Loaders such as the 9000G. In all reality I do not shoot much shotgun.

 

[kurt]

dad used to shoot trap we reloaded all trap loads on a mec jr and from memory it was with red dot and aa hulls were the only ones he would use. It is alot easier than rifle reloading i think as for cost savings back then there was now i dont know

 

[Cmbt Engr]

Check this reloading site out:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHOm6ccJsOQ

 

[ZiaHunter]

Used to shoot quite a bit of skeet years ago and reloaded on a Ponsness-Warren progressive machine. Great piece of equipment and still have it setup in my shop as well as boxes of components but haven't used it in years. Just shoot shotguns for bird hunting now and cheaper to buy factory loaded ammo.

 

[CMH]

Cheaper to buy 100 packs at Walmart than reload now - in large part due to price of lead shot these days.

 

[No1]

I use a MEC 600 Jr. and a 650. The 650 is a dedicated machine and the 600 is for loading everything else like steel, buck, and slug.

 

[former naval person]

For medium volume the MEC is fine. For years I used the NRA load in my 12ga 2 3/4 shells. "Little powder, much lead, shoots far kills dead. 28 grains Unique, 1 1/2 Oz shot. Did exactly what it claimed. Good patterns, no "hole in the middle" like some hi velocity loads.

 

[29aholic]

I have shot literally 1000's of rounds in competition but shooting Olympic skeet I always shot factory shells in matches, reloads were for practice.
700X is my powder of choice which I also load in handgun ammo.

 

[Gunfighter14e2]

Cheaper to buy 100 packs at Walmart than reload now - in large part due to price of lead shot these days.

Not if you make your own shot,...Store bought shot makers abound, Littleton being a fair one. Making your own dripp'ers is easy with a lathe or quality drill press. 1/2-5/8" grade 3-5 bolts work real good. Some guys even make their own valves for control, as well as cleaning should the dripper/s get plugged up with Babbitt. Brake fluid is the best coolant media to drip into, then toss in some graphite and mix your GTG. Don't forget a little tin or Linotype in the batch to harden the mix to your liking.

 

[Kirkd]

Tell me about shot shell reloading.

Can you save money? Well the answer is it depends. I reload 12, 20, and 410. If you are reloading for 28 or 410, then the answer is definitely yes. Now, I get pretty good prices on components at my local club and I can reload 7/8 12 ga for $4.28/box or $42.79 a flat. For 3/4 ounce 12 ga, it comes to $3.92/box or $39.21/flat. Still about a dollar cheaper than the cheap stuff at Walmart. A couple of dollar cheaper than the gun clubs and even more than the STS shells. Honestly, I reload 12 and 20 gauge so I can reload lighter weight shot. I'm recoil sensitive . You don't need 1 1/8 ounce shot for skeet/trap. I reload 7/8 ounce or 24 gram loads for 12 gauge and 3/4 ounce for 20 gauge.

Find out what your components will cost you locally and run them through a reloading calculator. I use an app on my iPhone by RCBS and its called reloading calculator. Not sure if it is on android as well. It does metallic and shotshell.

I was in the same boat as you. I had been reloading metallic for 2 years and in December, thought I would try shot shell. I ended up getting all the presses off of Craig's list used (at different times). All are single stage. The 12 and 410 are Mec Sizemasters and I gave $100/each for them. And the 20 ga is a Mec. Jr and it was $50 used. I figured I could get that back If I didn't take to it. If it makes sense, but used. You say you dont shoot shotgun much. If thats the case, I would skip the progressive. Of my presses, I like the sizemaster better as I like the collet resizer better. But both are good presses.


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[Pinecone]

We used to shoot a LOT of shotshells.

I could never make the numbers work to reload. The difference in price of the same shells I was shooting was to small to cover the cost of equipment and my time. I shot a lot of 1 ounce 12 ga loads in practice, and 1 1/8 in competition.

I found bulk buying or watching sales was cheaper. I was shooting Fiocchi for less than 25 cents per box (1 cent per shell) than the cost of components.

One thing to consider, if you shoot factory shells, some (especially WW AA), the hulls are worth a good bit. In the 90s, I could get 4 cents each from a local gun shop in store credit. So that knocked $1 a box off WW AA.

Agreed though, the sub gauges, especially 28 and .410 can be a HUGE savings. 12 guage not so much.

 

[flashhole]

I'm just starting to load shotshell. My interest is 410 ga reloading for the farm guns and I clearly see a path to saving money over factory ammo purchased at a retail outlet. I picked up a shot maker and I seem to get a lot of free lead. I also picked up a roll crimper with wads and cards from Ballistic Products. No plans to buy a shotshell press, I will just use hand tools. Moneywise, if I load and shoot 100 shells I'm ahead of the game but that's not why I'm doing it. I just want to be self-reliant. Same reason I cast bullets and load for all the other guns. If the 410 works out I may venture into 12 and 20 ga too but already have a good stock of ammo for those.

 

[vh20]

One thing to remember with shotshell reloading that is different than metallic: DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THE PUBLISHED LOADS IN ANY WAY. Shotshells do not behave in a predictable manner when changing around components, charges etc., like rifles cartridges do. Shotguns operate (and are proofed) at pressures that are only a fraction of what most rifles run, so there is little margin for error. Stick to published loads and you'll have no problem. Deviate from them in any way, and you are now running your own proof house. I've developed a few loads of my own, and would send them out for pressure testing. I was shocked at what would happen with the most minor changes sometimes, and how totally unpredictable it was.

 

[FLIGHT762]

We used to shoot a LOT of shotshells.

I could never make the numbers work to reload. The difference in price of the same shells I was shooting was to small to cover the cost of equipment and my time. I shot a lot of 1 ounce 12 ga loads in practice, and 1 1/8 in competition.

I found bulk buying or watching sales was cheaper. I was shooting Fiocchi for less than 25 cents per box (1 cent per shell) than the cost of components.

One thing to consider, if you shoot factory shells, some (especially WW AA), the hulls are worth a good bit. In the 90s, I could get 4 cents each from a local gun shop in store credit. So that knocked $1 a box off WW AA.

Agreed though, the sub gauges, especially 28 and .410 can be a HUGE savings. 12 guage not so much.

This is exactly what I found. I reloaded 12Ga. from the 1970's to the late 1990's. I loaded all of my lead Waterfowl loads and target loads. When we were forced to switch to steel shot for Waterfowl, I found the switchover was not worth it for me. I reloaded up all of my components and then sold the press. I've never regretted it.

I only shoot 12 and 20 ga. You will fine substantial cost savings reloading for .410 and 28 ga.

If you are heavily dedicated to competition shooting where you shoot thousands of shells per year, then reloading will save you money.

 

[sakobob]

One thing to remember with shotshell reloading that is different than metallic: DO NOT DEVIATE FROM THE PUBLISHED LOADS IN ANY WAY. Shotshells do not behave in a predictable manner when changing around components, charges etc., like rifles cartridges do. Shotguns operate (and are proofed) at pressures that are only a fraction of what most rifles run, so there is little margin for error. Stick to published loads and you'll have no problem. Deviate from them in any way, and you are now running your own proof house. I've developed a few loads of my own, and would send them out for pressure testing. I was shocked at what would happen with the most minor changes sometimes, and how totally unpredictable it was.

where can i send a shotshell in for psi testing? that would be very handy. as i have deviated a lot from published data, hell from old reloading books to new ones I've
seen some pretty drastic charge swings.

 

[Kirkd]

where can i send a shotshell in for psi testing? that would be very handy. as i have deviated a lot from published data, hell from old reloading books to new ones I've
seen some pretty drastic charge swings.

This is a copied post from shotgun world:


Tom Armbrust
Ballistic Research
1108 W. May Ave
McHenry, IL 60050-8918.
815.385.0037
E-mail - [email protected]

_______________________________________________________________________

Precision Reloading, LLC
1700 W. Cedar Ave. Suite B
Mitchell, SD 57301
Technical Support: 605-996-9984


_______________________________________________________________________

H.P. White Laboratory
3114 Scarboro Road
Street, Maryland 21154
Phone (410) 838-6550


______________________________________________________________________


There are others, but these are the ones I have worked with and can vouch for their accuracy.


Tom Armbrust, is the most experienced of all with shotshells. So if the loads you send in for testing aren't working out, Tom will be able to give you the proper advice.

Some tips for getting good data.

Crimps MUST be well formed, between 3/64" and 1/16" deep and consistent for each load. Half a$$ crimps will have the technician doubting the loads before the breech is closed on the first round.

Hand weigh all powder and shot payloads.

Send clearly written component information about the loads you are sending. If you can find the Lot Numbers for the primers and powder, include them with the load information.

Send at least 5 rounds of each load that you want tested. Sending an extra round so that the technician can verify the components, if there is a question isn't a bad idea.

The load must fit properly in the hull, if it doesn't, you need to rethink the load.

Testing isn't inexpensive, so use common sense when developing new loads. Choose wads(correct diameters and length) that are made for the hulls you have chosen. Choose powders that are correct for the shot payload. Choose components, that you can get on a consistent basis.

Talk to the company before sending any loads to them, they might be able to steer you away from sending a load that has no chance of working.


I hope this helps.

_________________
Mark

"Political correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and promoted by mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a piece of dung by the clean end."




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[neeltburn]

Im going to hold out on shot shell loading for a bit longer, going to shoot a trap league and see how it goes. If I fall in love with it the first purchase will be a new higher quality O/U.


Sent from my IPhone 5S.

 

[vh20]

where can i send a shotshell in for psi testing? that would be very handy. as i have deviated a lot from published data, hell from old reloading books to new ones I've
seen some pretty drastic charge swings.

Tom Armbrust is who I've used on several occasions. See contact info posted by Kirkd.

 

[Jungle George]

In this day and time you will have to load a lot of ammo to pay for the press. I use a Dillon 900, but I load about 500 rounds a week. You do have the advantage of being able to work up your own loads. And for me, I just enjoy spending an evening at the loading bench no matter what I'm loading.

Cheers,

George

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