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I don’t know but I’m gonna find outFrom your experience, how well does this work for sex... with other dudes?
Asking for a very, very close friend.
From your experience, how well does this work for sex... with other dudes?
Asking for a very, very close friend.
Is this like the imperial wax that you can just wipe off with a towel after sizing? I use graphite for the mandrel sizing and don't bother cleaning my brass after all that.
I use the same lanolin/alcohol solution for case lube. To remove it I drop the resized case in a tub of alcohol. Washes it right off and dries fast. Can use the 70% alcohol for the rinse if alcohol is difficult to source but I collect the rinse alcohol and reuse it about half a dozen times.It's a lot like Imperial, in fact, I think Imperial is essentially the same thing but emulsified with beeswax but I can't be sure.
I've got a can of it and it behaves much the same way. Imperial was the only thing that'd work on stubborn BMG brass but I wanted something I could spray in bulk --when you're sitting on 10,000 cases of that stuff you gotta think outside the box. Dillon worked but it was too weak and expensive for the amount I needed.
So wiping it off... I've tried a few things. Wiping works great and I resort to that with BMG brass a lot simply because that's when I do the inspection and I gotta make sure no pins are left in the brass (I initially wet tumble with SS pins in a concrete mixer). For 5.56 where it really doesn't take much at all I've both done nothing at all (left it --it dries/wears off/isn't an issue) and I've also dry tumbled it. I've got a sonic cleaner too and that'll work. What won't work is cold water/wet tumbling --lanolin is a solid, not an oil, so it tends to stay on the brass AND suck up dirt in a wet tumble. I haven't figured out a method for large bulk wet tumbling that doesn't require chemicals --but that's what I keep the dry tumbler for, everyone has one I think, and for BMG, a rag (or steel wool --I use that sometimes with BMG brass because it also polishes it shiny in the process too).
The key though is to use "just enough". I recommend "learning" it. Start out spraying the brass sparingly. Take a piece out, blow on it until the alcohol evaporates (always make sure to evaporate the alcohol so you don't get hydraulic dents in the shoulder! --this goes for any lube). If it goes through effortlessly, it's good to go. If not, try a little more until it's slick like you want.
You're welcome brother! Use it sparingly! Little goes a long way and it lasts forever...Used mine for the first time
Tonight. Holy shit this is way better than one shot. Much faster too. Thanks a bunch!
Yep, PM me.So what is used most 8:1 or 16:1? I want to order some...
You ever try adding benzotriazole or tolytiazole to it to add a copper passivator function? Should help in brass preservation (storage). Those materials are very soluble in lower chain alcohols.
No, I don't add anything to it, it's an anhydrous mixture of USP lanolin and isopropanol. You can't drink it but if it gets on your skin you're just left with an amazing moisturizer...
I'd like to look into hydrous lanolin but I don't think it's what I'm looking for. Water soluble would be awesome but not if it gives up the properties of solid lanolin.
I'd also like to toy with a wax emulsion some day.
What if you ran that mixture through a turbo encabulator?Based on the number of esters in lanolin I would expect it to have hygroscopic properties as well as the IPA that is already used.
An emulsion would be interesting but emulsifiers in general change the toxic profile of the product. Succinates, succinamides, fatty amines and amine carboxylates are typical emulsifiers I have used running a typical HLB matrix. They are usually aquatically hazardous and skin sensitive. A fair amount of emulsions also carry a high pH (usually due to an amine salt) so looking at the pourbaix diagram of copper you might have the possibility of forming cupric oxide (red) complex on the surface.
Some of that can be mitigated by usage of a passivating material like azole chemistry, however those have very low water solubility.
Another option is to try the sorbitan type emulsifiers with mixtures to obtain the necessary hlb value. Those have a lower toxicity profile.
I had to look this up and it was worth a good laugh. Thank you for that.What if you ran that mixture through a turbo encabulator?
What if you ran that mixture through a turbo encabulator?
Ha!I had to look this up and it was worth a good laugh. Thank you for that.
I will take two bottles. send PP info.*********************************************************************************************************************************************************
READ FIRST: Changes: FINALLY found a new supplier (so far so good) so I'm making it again. However it now comes in quarts instead of pints. 8:1 or 16:1, your choice on strength (or custom strengths available, no extra charge). As usual you're welcome to get it full strength and cut it to 16:1 yourself, it's just a 50/50, one for one mix.
If alcohol goes astronomical again I might have to pull the plug again, covid has killed more businesses and hobbies than people and since I don't make much off of this and it isn't a real business, just a service to 'Hide members, I can't offer it when prices for alcohol go higher than the complete product goes for. *$3 per price increase from $35 to $38 due to higher and fluctuating alcohol prices, differences in actual cost go towards GGWG charities here on the 'Hide.*
$38 per quart, $66 for two. Shipping is included. Paypal is fine, add 3% if not F&F. PM to order.
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Only available here to Sniper's Hide Members! I don't make much off it so it's more a service to provide members here with the best lanolin case lube available. I use pure anhydrous materials (no water present) and emulsify them carefully over heat. It's the strongest and purest lanolin case lube available at an 8:1 ratio of alcohol to lanolin. It's stronger than Dillon's and I've been told it's better than Hornady One Shot and RCBS's lube (and there's no pad to deal with either if you currently use that). Imperial wax is close but it's not sprayable. I do plan on making a wax similar one day using Lanolin and beeswax. Lanolin is just an awesome case lube, period.
I used to have another sale page up here with a long list of satisfied members and I don't know what happened to it! It just disappeared. I didn't receive any notice about it and I'm against people taking advantage of the site to run a business out of with out paying the dues. This isn't a business though and if I paid the seller dues it would make it not worth it for me to continue doing. If it does expand, and I'd like that, SH will be the first to be paid. It's my home.
I do, however, have another page in reloading here where it's being discussed, questions asked and answered:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/pure-lanolin-case-lube-for-sale.6920148/#post-7562682
The lube comes in 16oz. bottles and they go for $12 per bottle plus $10 shipping; 2 bottles is $34, shipping for two is a little more than the $10 I charge but I cover any differences. Most folks get 2 bottles, it's a better deal with the shipping, lasts even longer and gives you one bottle to keep concentrated for hard to size brass and one you can cut to stretch and make spray and spread better. At full strength it's sufficient for sizing BMG brass and other hard to size cases. That was it's genesis, sizing BMG cases. It can be cut up to 16:1 or more for easier to size cases like .308, etc.
Lanolin is one of, if not the best lubes to use for sizing brass. It's the main ingredient in Imperial wax and Dillon case lube. What I offer is much stronger than Dillon's at a fraction of the price, and you get more. I only use the purest ingredients to make it with and get 'em in bulk to keep prices down and make it worth it.
To cut or to use, heat up a bowl of hot water. Soak the bottle in the hot water until it becomes a urine like color without any white solids. Do not subject the bottle or the contents to direct heat or in a microwave! Vapors are explosive. When warmed, this is when it sprays, spreads and mixes the easiest. Spray brass in a plastic bag and work around to fully coat, or spray in a plastic bin, shaking can line up most of the case mouths so the can be hit too. Avoid paper bags or cardboard boxes, they absorb the alcohol and lube and the cases on the sides and bottoms can be left dry. To remove, dry tumbling works best or they can be wiped clean, depending on your loading habits. Wet tumbling will require a solution capable of dissolving the lanolin and I haven't found one yet. Small amounts can even be left and pose no problem.
I've got several pounds of lanolin and a case of alcohol waiting. I answer any questions or concerns, just PM me. I will sell it diluted to any ratio you prefer, otherwise it comes 8:1. Diluting it yourself pays off better as you end up with more using your own bottle of alcohol vs. me doing it. It's easy enough to do and the 99% alcohol can be had from a pharmacy, Iso Heet car starter or Amazon.
Please PM me for sales, cost is $22 for one bottle, $34 for two, shipped Priority Mail as soon as possible. I take paypal (add 3% unless F&F) Postal MO or a cashier's check. Paypal is the fastest of course but it's up to you.
Thank you!
I’m willing to bet he’ll probably want to keep his pp info fairly private.. lolI will take two bottles. send PP info.