Gunsmithing The zero problem from hell continues...

BigBrother

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 27, 2007
687
5
New England
(Warning- this is lengthy. I'm putting in a lot of detail to help solve this problem)

Well, at this point, I don't think there's a single 'hide member on here who hasn't already read through one of my f*&^% threads on this
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, but *just* in case, here are the previous ones before I delve in with the latest:

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...9848#Post959848

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...1759#Post761759

http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthre...7441#Post587441

To summarize- for a nearly a year now I've had a zeroing problem with my 700P. The component list is as follows:

700P .308
Leupold Mk4 3.5-10X FFP Mil Dot
Badger 20 MOA base
Badger rings
HS Precision DBM
HS Precision stock it came with
Harris 6-9 swivel, podloc
Pelican case, 3 br home, driven in a Toyota 4R, etc. etc. etc.
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The problem is this- no matter what I do and how carefully I set up the base and rings, my scope is always zeroed at 100y with more downward adjustment than upward remaining and way more right adjustment than left. Put another way, 100y zero is far off from what I understand it should be given my 20 MOA base. Just to be clear, this is my expectation- a windage zero about around mechanical zero, and an elevation zero with more up remaining than down, on account of the canted base.

Rather than chronologically go trough the painful and frustrating history of what I've tried
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, I'm going to go component by component. I'm going to bold anything particularly noteworthy as well.

Scope
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Two different scopes of the same model tried. First one, at 100y zero, had 40 MOA up and 45 down remaining, and, worse, 15 left and 45 right.

<span style="font-weight: bold">I took this first scope and stuck it on a flat top AR to test. Windage was now perfectly in the middle, but elevation was even worse- I had only about 20-25 MOA up, on a scope with an 85 MOA range! This leads me to suspicious point #1, at least for elevation- perhaps Leupolds, at a 100y zero, hover around the top of their range for elevation (?)</span>

Anyway, after switching out a bunch of other components, I just got back from the range with the second Leupold. Guess what?
39 MOA remaining up, 46 down, 23 right, 52 left. Practically the same shit. My left/right now does appear switched, but I think that was just me writing down something wrong- see next item for why I think it's the same.

Action/Barrel
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Three different assemblies. On the first, when the Badger base was on, you could visibly see it wasn't pointing in the muzzle's direction- if the muzzle is at center of clockface, it was located at around 11:00 and pointing out to about 9:00. Even after GAP opened up the holes, it was the same. Sent it back, got another- same problem. Sent it back. Just got one that appeared *close* to good. Radially it was still off (i.e. if stock screws are at 6:00, muzzle is at center, the base is at about 11:00-11:30 instead of 12:00). But linearly it looks good, i.e. the base and rings are at least pointing in the same direction as the bore axis, which wasn't the case before. Anyway, took it all out today, and, as mentioned above in scope, same zero problem.

Base
-----
Base is only one of two components I have not switched, because virtually *everyone* has told me it can't be the Badger base. <span style="font-weight: bold">So I'm assuming here it's got its proper 20 MOA cant and is straight.</span>

Rings
------
Switched from TPS TSR Lows to slightly lower Badger Standards. Obviously, hasn't fixed it.

Stock
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Same HS P one I got with it. I don't imagine this could be the culprit, but hell, I don't know anymore.

Bottom Metal
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Has always been my HS DBM. Also, don't imagine this could cause it, but who knows..


<span style="font-weight: bold">What sucks here is I feel like I'm dealing with at least two independent problems. Windage has to be something other than the scope, because, as mentioned, the scope suddenly was at windage zero when I put it on an AR. I'd suspect the position of the base holes with respect to the position of the action and stock screws, because I can visually see it's off, but Remington seems to keep sending me ones drilled nearly the same- so are *all* 700 actions' base holes drilled off at around 11:00 from the bore like this?

But then there's elevation- perhaps that component *is* caused by the scope, also because of the AR example, where the Leupold lost even more MOA when it was sitting flat and not on my Badger. I don't get it- shouldn't a scope, sitting fairly close to the barrel, be at nearly its mechanical center at 100y even *before* introducing cant?</span>

You're probably wondering why I care about this if it just shoots. Well, for windage, I don't really right now since I have 25 MOA remaining in the shorter direction, and unless I'm shooting at 1000y with a 20mph wind coming at 3:00 or 9:00, I don't think I'll ever be using that much. But for elevation, I *do* want to shoot at 1000 and having a little under 40 sucks- sure I can use hold over, but why should I have to? A scope with 85 total and a 20 MOA base should not have me needing to hold over at 1000- right?

So I've weighed all my options. I can't keep sending the action and barrel back to Remington because I honestly think they have no idea what I want at this point- I'm sure they've gotten it as close to mass production standards as they can. I can send the action to GAP for truing and a new barrel, but yikes, that's another grand to spend for something that should be centered, and I'm still not 100% certain that's the culprit. Lastly, I can sell or trade the Leupold (this new one is practically NIB) for something with more travel- perhaps a USO 10x.

But ultimately, this just sucks ass. I would have thought that spending not at the top, but still a good amount on good reputation products, should have put me at equal windage in each direction and at least 50-60 MOA up. What. The. Fuck.

Oh yeah, one last thing- if anyone has similar components out there and is willing to tell me how much they have remaining in all four directions, I'd appreciate it- it would at least help me determine my expectations and might help me narrow the component.

Thanks a lot guys,
BB

 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I may be in total left field here, and I really don't understand he science behind it BUT. Take a look at US Optics web site and they show you on a video on how to center the erector tube. I truly believe this is your problem. Even though we are talking about a Leupold here, if you give Arnold a call at USO he wll more than likely be glad to help you. ThEN JUST RETURN THE FAVOR DOWN THE ROAD AND BUY A USO!! They have the absolut best customer service I have ever experienced.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MAGUA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have way more patience than i do ...If it was mine it would have been bent around a tree some time ago. Good luck </div></div>

You, sir, have no idea how gnashed my teeth have been at times
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Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: .257</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I may be in total left field here, and I really don't understand he science behind it BUT. Take a look at US Optics web site and they show you on a video on how to center the erector tube. I truly believe this is your problem. Even though we are talking about a Leupold here, if you give Arnold a call at USO he wll more than likely be glad to help you. ThEN JUST RETURN THE FAVOR DOWN THE ROAD AND BUY A USO!! They have the absolut best customer service I have ever experienced. </div></div>

That looks interesting and I have considered giving them a call, but from what I see in that vid, that shouldn't really change where my 100y zero is. I start from mechanical center when I get my 100y zero, so I cant imagine this method would produce different results. Maybe I'm wrong, and yes, mechanical zero probably doesn't equal optical zero, but again, the destination is probably the same.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Loosing windage in your scope can be caused by barrel bore run-out and where it ends up when it's tongued to your action. It's not always the scope base holes, in fact most of the time it's not. The bore run-out can affect both windage and elevation at the same time.

If you have ever seen a factory barrel, and some customs for that matter, spin in a lathe and have the bore indicated true you would see what I'm talking about.

It appears you are having issues with what is going on with your set-up. I would suggest you send the entire package to someone who can take a look at the entire thing and give another opinion.

Wanting or having your scope to be set at or near mechanical zero after being mounted to a rifle, and a factory rifle at that, is an unrealistic goal.

This is not to sound like a dick but if it's been back and forth to Remington there just may be something your are not seeing or are understanding.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Bro,
I think i'd contact GAP and see if they can drill and tap the mounting holes correctly. Centered and go to a 8/40 screw. I think that may solve at least some of the problem.

SOTA
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is not to sound like a dick but if it's been back and forth to Remington there just may be something your are not seeing or are understanding.</div></div>

Not dick at all. Quite the opposite- I'm *sure* there's something I'm not seeing or understanding
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. You think I enjoy padding the pockets of UPS and Fedex so much?
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I may just have to send it all in as you mentioned to someone, we'll see. Curious to see what this thread turns up.

Like I said about windage, I'm beginning to wane in my desire to have it be centered, but elevation just makes no fucking sense, and is a practical concern.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bro,
I think i'd contact GAP and see if they can drill and tap the mounting holes correctly. Centered and go to a 8/40 screw. I think that may solve at least some of the problem.

SOTA </div></div>

SOTA, it's been done. See above
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Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Here are some ideas.

#1 Try another scope base.
I owned a Badger base that had slots which weren't true. They were out significantly on one side. Best scope base I've seen/measured is from Near Mfg.

#2 Are you using alignment rods to center your rings before mounting the scope?

#3 Only Leupold scope I've seen that could be zeroed somewhat for lateral reticle movement is a Mk4 M3 ULTRA.

#4 Do you have a boresighting grid collimator, like bushnell 74-3333? These tools are well worth the money for diagnosing problems.

#5 Do you have a 30moa base? Your reticle is likely far away from dead center. With a 30moa base just getting your reticle anywhere near a 100yd zero means the reticle is at the top of its movement range. Try mounting the scope on a -0-moa base, with a collimator grid to see if your lateral movements open-up when the elevation is centered.

#6 Maybe your receiver shoulder and recoil lug aren't ground/trued? Even if your barrel shoulder is within .0001" true, if the recoil lug and receiver shoulder aren't also similarly true, you can have alignment issues.

#7 Scope is probably well within factory specs. Maybe you have 5moa more lateral on one side than the other? Just have to shoot your rig on a large target and see what you are working with. Scope is probably not perfect, few are. Knowing yours and how much windage you are likely to dial on a 3.5-10x is important. Seems like the Leupold 3.5-10x mk4 has about 70moa total lateral movement. Maybe you get 30L and 40R? That is not a problem until you are shooting in some tropical storm situation. How likely is that?
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

BB,

I really think at this point you should send the rifle to someone and have them mount a scope and shoot it. Just to see what they come up with. It seems to me suspicious that Remington sends you two different barreled actions (different serial numbers to prove it) and you see the same problem. You send to GAP and they send it back with the problem? Not saying you aren't correct, just saying it is probably about time for a second opinion. Also, as to windage center, I have shot a bit, and change equipment frequently, and I can not tell you on a single scope if I had the actual same moa from left to right. If there is enough room I would never check it. If there isn't enough room, it was because I was using windage adjustable rings and didn't have them centered.

Do you have a shooting buddy that you can give the rifle to and have them mount a scope and base and the like on and see if they can duplicate the problem? I am not sure if Randy was implying he would be willing to look at it or not, but someone like him would be a great asset. Did you ever send it back to GAP and have them look at it while aware of what your problem is? It seems like you are causing yourself a tremendous amount of stress over this, maybe it is time to let a fresh set of eyes look at it.

Have you posted pictures of the rifle and the scope and how you have it all set up?

Dave
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

You may not like this option because it doesn't use the rings you like, but I had a similar problem with a 700.

I ended up using Burris posi-align rings and also bought the offset insert kit. I used the inserts vertically and used a -.005 on one side and a +.005 on the other to move the scope to the side within the rings. If I did the math right, that would move you 18" to the side at 100 yards. This actually worked well for me, but not something that I felt that i should have had to do...
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Sorry, just looked through the pics, so you can disregard the picture question.

Are your rings lapped? Have you tried reversing the rings at all, putting the nut on the opposite side? I have seen where sometimes the slot in the base isn't perfectly compatible with the tab on the underside of the rings. Though if you are using Badger/Badger this should be moot. The pictures are tough to tell anything by. I still think you ought to send the rifle to someone to look at. Try a new base maybe...

Dave
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I forgot to say that I only did this at the rear ring. I used the offset rings in the normal horizontal direction in the front rings to adjust the vertical component of the problem.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Dave, I think the order here may actually be new base, then send it in to someone. I've asked George to take a look at this thread as well- to be fair, GAP really only opened the holes for me- I was pressed for time and that's all I had requested, as I was certain that was it. So sending to GAP could still be an option.

Needless to say, keep the suggestions coming- interesting stuff.

And re: inserts or windage adjustable rings, I know this sounds petty, but I am set on actually fixing this problem, not using a fix on top of a bad component. From what I'm reading here, windage varies widely, so I'm not *that* concerned with being in the middle anymore. But it's that damn elevation that doesn't make sense. The trouble is out here where I'm at I don't know many tactical shooters with decent scopes from whom I could borrow stuff.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I wasn't saying that you should try windage rings. I was saying that was the only time I have encountered a problem with scope windage.

Have you made sure the tabs on the bottom of your rings seat properly in the base? If say your front ring wasn't seated completely down, it could offset the cant in the base. I would guess since this is the second action that the base has been on, that the area under the base is clear from any burs or anything.

I have had a set of rings, I thought they were set down on the base properly, and they could even be torqued, but then after close inspection it was clear they weren't all the way seated. I would give that a look. Try another base, that would be an easy thing to look at. An EGW can be had for around $50 I think, and that would be less than two mailings with insurance to check it out. After that, just a fresh set of eyes is the best course sometimes.

DD
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Yeah, good advice- and apologies on the windage rings- I was referring to remaction's post, not yours
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Also, I've spent a lot of breath (as have others) trying to solve this. But one of the reasons I mentioned "others with similar equipment" above was that I want to gut check my assumptions here.

You go out and buy a good quality 308 rifle, 20 MOA base, relatively low rings and a scope with 80 MOA internal elevation. What *should* you be expecting here for your 100y zero? Am I crazy?
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

BigBrother,

No offense taken on my part, and I hope you don't take offense, but I saw that you have tried different rings already, that is why I mentioned the offset ring inserts as a possible option.

Unless I'm mistaken, a 700P is just a production run 700 in a different stock and maybe a shorter barrel. I was just trying to save you some money and heartache so that you can save up for that next gun.

 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I think Randy is on the right track , even some custom barrel need to be "timed" so that the curve is in the upward position. its hard to drill a hole perfectly strait but for the most part custom barrel makers can get the barrel pretty freekin strait , factroy tubes on the otherhand can be so far off you can look through the action and see the curve.

I spoken with several builders about indexing the curve in the barrel so that its at TDC pointng up
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I just got my 308 SPS Varmint back from Rem because the scope base holes did not line up, the new one seems close enough. I would look at barrel timing, but since you have sent it back so many times, I would think you would have gotten one that was closer to what you wanted by now. I understand your pissed, because I was, good luck.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Spin your scope in per USO's instructions. Mech center may be way off (shit happens, even in the revered MK4's).
Spin scope in to optical center and see where that compares to mechanical center.

 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I think I would try a different base, its the only thing you have not ruled out. I know its a Badger, but have it checked or try another, hell an EGW would run you about 50 bucks, and would be way cheaper than all the other stuff you have done. Do you have acces to a caliper, or micrometer? You could measure the base yourself for parallelism, and know if it's close to true.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I've measured with my calipers- appears true. I am, though, going to send it back for a replacement. And I'm about to do the USO spin test.

At this point, I'm actually curious- for anyone out there willing to check for me who owns a Leupold, can you tell me from a 100y zero what your ranges are in each of the 4 directions? Then tell me your setup- rifle, base (canted or not- and by how much), rings, and of course model of scope. That would rock.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Leupold only lists that scope as having 65 MOA travel. Did you actually measure the 85 MOA, or just use the limits of the knob travel? Using Leupold's figures, and figuring about 4 MOA lost getting to 100 yards, you should have about 48 MOA left over, or roughly 10 more than you're getting right now. That's not all that excessive really.

As for the left/right, HateCA is probably right about the barrel run out. If you don't want to rebarrel, then the easiest solution would be to shim and bed the base and get a set of windage adjustable rings.

You can use basic trigonometry to solve for the shim height: A SA rem base is about 5" from the front of the receiver ring to the middle of the rear bridge, so you can use the formula 5*tan(angle desired)=shim thickness. An additional 15 MOA could be had with a shim of about .022".
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<span style="font-weight: bold">SON OF A BITCH, I THINK WE'VE GOT IT
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</span>

Okay, so I just did the spin test using a home made set up- basically laid my rifle out at the end of the hallway, then focused the scope at the corner of a picture frame about 30 ft. away.

I spun and adjusted until the scope crosshair touched the corner of the frame and the image stayed stable and perfectly centered as showed in the USO video. Guess what my values remaining were?

34 up, 51 down
28 right, 45 left

Remember what my 100y zero was? Let me refresh you:

39 up, 46 down
23 right, 52 left

I was about to jump for joy and declare this bitch DEAD but then remembered one last thing. I remembered hearing from Leupold and reading somewhere that another test for centricity is to stick the objective bell against a mirror and see if the two crosshairs line up. I did the test this way and came up with these values:

38.5 up, 46 down
30.5 right, 45 left

Almost identical to my 100y zero, and just for giggles, I re-tried the spin test with these values and it was even more locked in than before. So, I'm about 2 mins from calling this one big F U to Leupold.

My only remaining question is, if optical zero and 100y zero are nearly identical, why did my 20 MOA base not do anything? I can't imagine height of rings took up all the advantage gained (?)
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

So from what i gather basically your to far into elevation turret @ 100yds leaving you with more below zero than above?

I always try to set my scopes up so they are only a couple of turns from bottom @ 200

Zero @ 25 yds for starting point, pull bolt eyeball thru bore to center on target etc etc

So you can do one of two things
adjust scope to correct to aimpoint
or
adjust scope to correct to impact point

bottom line is you want dial down period
so if shot hits high correct to aim point

shot hits low, measure and dial down
correcting to impact point, after adjustment you will now have to shift entire rifle up to acquire bull

Hoping that made sense?
PM if you more info, thinking its just how you dialed your zero in.
good luck
I dont sweat windage so long as its a couple of turns from center, never had issue of not having enuff windage left @1k
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Sounds like it means if you had a 0 moa base, your Leupold would have left you with 18.5 "up" from a 100yd zero.

Good luck getting Leupy to understand your problem. I'd demand to talk to Garth when you call Leupy. I think he's the one person there that has his shit squared away.

I sent an M3 to them to have M1 turrets installed once because everyone (2 phone calls and 2 emails) said they could do it. Once they got the scope they contacted me to let me know they couldn't. Big waste of time.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

What sucks is the multi-variable issue rears its ugly head again.

Wanna get nice and confused?
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Allow me...

My first Leupold had the exact same elevation amounts remaining up and down as my new one (a little under 40 up, and 45 down). This would indicate it's NOT the scope. BUT, that first Leupold, when mounted on a flat top, dropped from 40 up to only 30 up. This *would* indicate it's the scope - why should a Leupold with 85 internal adjustment be so damn high on a 100y zero on an AR? (And remember that I've already swapped the rings- TPS Lows to Badger Medium or whatever their lowest ones are called - no difference.)

It gets more fun. I asked over on arfcom what other people are getting on their similar rigs:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=5&t=271933

This was very telling. For one, it's definitely good advice to not care about windage, as some have said- these numbers all over the place for everyone, even on really high end rigs. But look at those elevations- practically everyone has a *LARGE SWATH* of their elevation remaining up, not nearly split like I do. Especially vexing are the 1-2 guys posting on there with 700 actions, 20 MOA bases, and similar Leupolds - check their numbers.

Point being, with the optical zero on this being as I listed above, I'd expect at least 50 up after the base does its thing.

My next move is to swap out the base. After that, I think this muzzle may go in my mouth
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Oh, and to all the people advising windage adjustable rings or 30 or 40 MOA bases, yep, I agree it would solve it. But I got a bug - well aware it's one - where I want this shit working like it's supposed to and am willing to trade peace of mind for finally finding the culprit. Crazy? Yeah, I know. Whatchya gonna do?
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Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Crazy, no. That's part of the fun (I use that term very loosely) of it. Trying to figure out the issue and then deciding how you (personally) want to correct it. Everybody has a different threshhold that suits them individually. That's also a strong point of these forums, getting varying opinions and sorting through them to gather information.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Yeah, definitely. And as I was joking with my friend, as frustrating as some of the gun issues I've had are, they are always a mixed blessing as I invariably learn a shit ton in the process
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Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I would send the scope out to Leupold and have them check the scope out. There maybe a problem with the scope or send the rifle, scope, rings, base to a custom rifle shop. Have them put it together for you and see what they come up with. The problems you are having a rather different. My first thought is there is a problem with the scope. But if it worked on the AR there must be a problem with the base of the rifles scope mount. Whether the base is not alined or something along those lines.

Sounds like you have been more than patient. I would have returned the scope and the rifle by now! If you can return the scope I would consider doing that. But since you have fired the rifle its yours. Don't feel like your the only one with problems, almost every rifle I get has a issue or something I have to adjust.

Good Luck with your problems.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Doug Kelley, not to be snippy or anything, but did you read my OP? You're describing steps I took waaay back at the beginning
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. The rifle has been replaced twice and the scope once already, with no change. This is why I think the base is up next.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Yeah this is going to be like the end of some Disney movie where everyone is cheering on the hometown hero
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Do I get a parade when my fucking rifle works ?
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Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BigBrother</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

Do I get a parade when my fucking rifle works ?
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</div></div>

Nope, you just get a rifle that works and some experience......
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Actually, interesting update.

There was a guy off my thread on arfcom:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=5&t=271933

whose VXIII 3.5-10x was sitting atop his AR, no cant. See the thread for pics or if at all interested. His 100y zero was as follows:

46 MOA UP / 46 clicks UP
42 MOA DOWN / 42 clicks DOWN
33 MOA LEFT / 66 clicks LEFT
45 MOA RIGHT / 90 clicks RIGHT

I asked him very gratefully if he would do either the spin test or mirror test to gauge the optical center by comparison, since his scope is fundamentally the same as mine. Results just got back today:

44 MOA up and Down (Equal adjustment up and down)
44 MOA left
35 MOA Right

Which means, with the same scope as me, he has virtually an equal optical center and 100y zero, with no cant- which makes plenty of sense. Bear in mind, I have virtually an equal optical center and 100y zero, WITH my 20 MOA base. Ladies and gentlemen, I think I may have it down to either the base or the rings. Rings is unlikely since I swapped them out, but at this point, I'm not ruling anything out. And just to refresh since some on here have been asking about components I describe in the OP- second scope, third action and barrel.

God bless the scientific method. It's arduous, but at least it's thorough.

Next step is the new base which I'll get soon. Will keep you updated.
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Be interesting to hear what Marty says when he gets your base in hand.
If it did the same with a scope of known function, I'd still bet money on the barrel bore runout that Randy suggested. I think Remington can screw a barrel up faster than Marty can screw a base up.......
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

I've never had a 20 MOA scope base. I assume visual,one would be able to tell by sight the cant of the scope. In other words one end will be thinner and the othe thicker. A mike will help determine this too.This stuff is way out of my league but we are learning. Learned a lot already. I checked out the ar15 thread.pretty good. scope ring aren't cocking-twisting the scope when tighten? align and center to center of the rings good? signing off!
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sobrbiker883</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Be interesting to hear what Marty says when he gets your base in hand.
If it did the same with a scope of known function, I'd still bet money on the barrel bore runout that Randy suggested. I think Remington can screw a barrel up faster than Marty can screw a base up....... </div></div>

Two things- 1) This is the second barrel and action and the zero is nearly identical for elevation. I'd have a hard time believing Rem fucked up two in the exact same way, even given their talent
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. And every piece of anecdotal evidence I can find with canted bases and rem actions places elevation at WAAAY more up than down. (see arfcom thread for an example) Either it's something else or Remington particularly loves me. Again, I'm not ruling ANYTHING out until this is solved at this point, but barrel/action have fallen far on my list.

2) I examined the base today before sending it off- I have no idea if this could be the culprit, but there was a nice size metal chunk taken out of one of the bottom edges- maybe a half mm deep. Is it that? Who knows- but I'm telling you my sacred Badger base was not so pure. But I must say- I spoke with Marty yesterday- guy fuckin rocks. Not only as nice and accommodating as can be, but knew his stuff inside and out - he explained to me more about the Leupold product line and the operation of my scope than anyone at Leupold or anywhere else ever has. Good to find the good
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Anyway, more on this later, hide-kateers...
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Question
when you zero'd rifle did you correct to point of aim, or point of impact? big difference in end result of usable correction left.

Might be a easier fix than you think... or not
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Hmm, wow I hope that's not the problem
smile.gif
Not sure- here's what I did-

Bore sight it by removing the bolt, staring down the bore, aiming at paper (a shoot-n-see, for example). Adjust turrets until crosshair is basically pointing at same. Replace bolt. Aim at center of bullseye. Fire a round. Note that impact was about 3 inches down, 4 inches right. Click adjustment into scope. Fire again, once more aiming at bullseye. Now much closer. Rinse and repeat until spot on. Loosen caps. Tighten at 0.

?
 
Re: The zero problem from hell continues...

Hmmm
Me thinks you corrected by dialing up and left if so....thats your problem

Assuming you started with dials set mid range roughly? as i stated in order max out remaining adjustment...you needed to dial down

So your correction should of been 3MOA down and 4 MOA right, you corrected to POA instead of POI

Most just turn knobs and call it good, works for hunters not worried about turns left in scope.

Seems this may in fact be your issue, rezero start @ 50 or 25yds and regardless of where bullet hits Dial down

Remember you want to correct to Point of impact not POA, shoot me a pm if you need further clarification

Done correctly you can max out adjustment left, all my scopes are only a couple of turns from bottom @zero