I am looking for a thicker bottom metal plate for my Savage TR .22 that allows for bolting to the 3rd boss on the receiver. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
- Thread starter jeffersonv
- Start date
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
The only bottom metal for the Savage Mk II that I know of is the DIP bottom metal. I have it and works very well.
http://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3602
The only bottom metal for the Savage Mk II that I know of is the DIP bottom metal. I have it and works very well.
http://www.diproductsinc.com/Products.aspx?CAT=3602
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
You'd have to make something yourself to get lined up with the 3rd boss, but honestly I think it's pointless. If you're looking for a more solid fit, try the DIP bottom metal or skip that step and pillar bed the stock. The Boyd's stocks are pretty soft so even with thicker bottom metal you'll just end up compressing the stock.
You'd have to make something yourself to get lined up with the 3rd boss, but honestly I think it's pointless. If you're looking for a more solid fit, try the DIP bottom metal or skip that step and pillar bed the stock. The Boyd's stocks are pretty soft so even with thicker bottom metal you'll just end up compressing the stock.
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
Thanks guys.
Are all the tacticool stocks soft? My TR definitely has some heft and I haven't noticed any softness in it and I've been looking. Maybe I got a good piece of wood?
As for using the 3rd boss being pointless, I'm sure that is a valid point. Perhaps another could be made that having it there in position and rather screwing into the wood could be pointless? I know what you mean that 2 bolts should be plenty though.
Thanks again.
Jeff
Thanks guys.
Are all the tacticool stocks soft? My TR definitely has some heft and I haven't noticed any softness in it and I've been looking. Maybe I got a good piece of wood?
As for using the 3rd boss being pointless, I'm sure that is a valid point. Perhaps another could be made that having it there in position and rather screwing into the wood could be pointless? I know what you mean that 2 bolts should be plenty though.
Thanks again.
Jeff
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
Yes, unfortunately, all of the Tacticool/TR stocks are made of a soft wood. It'd be nice if they started using better wood on the Tacticools, but I've had 3 and they're all the same. They have good weight to them but try making an indentation on the bare wood with your thumb nail, it's not too difficult. You can't quite do that with a hardwood.
Yes, unfortunately, all of the Tacticool/TR stocks are made of a soft wood. It'd be nice if they started using better wood on the Tacticools, but I've had 3 and they're all the same. They have good weight to them but try making an indentation on the bare wood with your thumb nail, it's not too difficult. You can't quite do that with a hardwood.
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
Sounds like you've been there, done that, and got the t-shirt J_S.
How hard would it be for Boyd's to use the same tools to make a stock with better materials? Are they afraid we wouldn't pay the price?
Or, how big of an issue is it? How much torque will these stocks handle? How much is usually needed to improve accuracy?
Sounds like you've been there, done that, and got the t-shirt J_S.
How hard would it be for Boyd's to use the same tools to make a stock with better materials? Are they afraid we wouldn't pay the price?
Or, how big of an issue is it? How much torque will these stocks handle? How much is usually needed to improve accuracy?
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
I am getting ready to do a pillar job on my after market Boyd's TR stock. It really has big gaps under the trunions and at 25 inch lb on the front action screw and 15 on the rear it feels like it about at the safe limit.
Have seen one pillar job where the guy replaced the front trunion with a shortened Remmy action screw.
OFG
I am getting ready to do a pillar job on my after market Boyd's TR stock. It really has big gaps under the trunions and at 25 inch lb on the front action screw and 15 on the rear it feels like it about at the safe limit.
Have seen one pillar job where the guy replaced the front trunion with a shortened Remmy action screw.
OFG
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
FWIW I just put some work into my savage mkII. I got the DIP bottom metal and some extra screws. I just carefully measured the difference and drilled a new hole in the metal.
Its worth noting that this rifle was shooting 4-6" groups at 50 yards.
Before I put everything back together I noticed that my stock had two distinct gouges in it. I looked at the corresponding spot on my rifle, and what do ya know, the pins for the barrel were way off center.
I centered the pins, sanded the stock where it contacts the receiver, and installed the bottom metal using the third mount you were talking about.
The rifle went from shooting 4-6" groups at 50 yards to shooting just under 1" at 100 yards (using federal auto match bulk pack). I'm sure the pins played a big part in that, but the extra work to put the hole in the bottom metal was 100% worth it in my opinion.
I'm very excited to see what I can get out of this rifle with a little more work! I would say try drilling the hole, I would be shocked if it resulted in a decrease in accuracy.
FWIW I just put some work into my savage mkII. I got the DIP bottom metal and some extra screws. I just carefully measured the difference and drilled a new hole in the metal.
Its worth noting that this rifle was shooting 4-6" groups at 50 yards.
Before I put everything back together I noticed that my stock had two distinct gouges in it. I looked at the corresponding spot on my rifle, and what do ya know, the pins for the barrel were way off center.
I centered the pins, sanded the stock where it contacts the receiver, and installed the bottom metal using the third mount you were talking about.
The rifle went from shooting 4-6" groups at 50 yards to shooting just under 1" at 100 yards (using federal auto match bulk pack). I'm sure the pins played a big part in that, but the extra work to put the hole in the bottom metal was 100% worth it in my opinion.
I'm very excited to see what I can get out of this rifle with a little more work! I would say try drilling the hole, I would be shocked if it resulted in a decrease in accuracy.
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
Wow check that out.
With Fed Auto Match as well.
Nice work and example.
I've been reloading and shooting some CF lately. My 22 just has that look that it wants to play. I'll check my rifle out for those pins and take it out.
Thanks.
Wow check that out.
With Fed Auto Match as well.
Nice work and example.
I've been reloading and shooting some CF lately. My 22 just has that look that it wants to play. I'll check my rifle out for those pins and take it out.
Thanks.
Re: Thicker bottom metal for Savage Mk II?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jeffersonv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like you've been there, done that, and got the t-shirt J_S.
</div></div>
Haha, I wouldn't quite say that. But when I get a new toy, I get hooked and research the heck out of it. I ended up ordering the stocks from different places due to backorders and got them all about the same time. And I analyzed this thing to no end while bedding it, there are a couple areas with room for improvement.
I doubt it'd be difficult for Boyds to use better wood. It must be a matter of cost.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jeffersonv</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like you've been there, done that, and got the t-shirt J_S.
</div></div>
Haha, I wouldn't quite say that. But when I get a new toy, I get hooked and research the heck out of it. I ended up ordering the stocks from different places due to backorders and got them all about the same time. And I analyzed this thing to no end while bedding it, there are a couple areas with room for improvement.
I doubt it'd be difficult for Boyds to use better wood. It must be a matter of cost.
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