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Thompson Center Long Range Rifle

Hurty

Private
Minuteman
Feb 21, 2019
15
7
Central Florida
I've been shooting this rifle. Has anyone else shot it? I find it accurate to below 1/2 MOA. If you are shooting it, what are you loading? I shoot the 6.5 Creedmoor round. Attaching some target photos. All shot at 100 yards, 5 shot groups one inch target. The steel was at 625 yards. I am using a Vortex Viper HS-T 6-24x50 with Vortex PMR. Hornady brass, F210 primer, 123g Hornady ELD-M, 37.3 g IMR 4895 @ 2750 fps, for me this powder works better than H4053. 0target 4.jpgtarget 3.jpgtarget pix.jpg0430190827.jpg
 

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That's one of the rifles I'm looking at buying... there are so many dang choices.. Really appealing price point, and a guy who shoots one at our local gun club is getting the same 1/2MOA as you.
 
I also have a Ruger PR in 308. It's a great rifle and in some ways easier to use. The TC you have to pull the rear stock to get the bolt out and clean. Outside of that I find it a great shooter. The biggest thing for accuracy was finding the right reload and tuning the scope to the rifle. There are so many high dollar rifles in this thread I thought I would put in a rifle complete with scope under $2000.
 
How does the butt stock compare to the RPR? I thought I'd like the RPR stock, but it is sharp in all the wrong places and I replaced it with a magpul PRS.

The folding stock is a cool feature of the RPR, and means your stock settings stay the same every time you pull the bolt. What stock manipulation is required to remove the bolt on the TC?

Can't really argue with the precision.
 
The TC stock is removed by loosening a through bolt and sliding the rear stock off. The bolt pinches the stock to a machined post. It lines up every time The bolt is located about 2 inches the hand grip. The bolt can not be removed without taking the stock off. You could remove the adjustable comb. I did this and it take forever. Google the TC manual. It has pictures.
 

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Bolt on the LRR can be removed without pulling the stock or removing the cheek riser (which sucks to reassemble). Lower the cheek riser completely and rotate the bolt 180 degrees as it reached the bolt catch. The angle on the back of the now inverted bolt will clear the lowered cheek riser and allow removal. Realized I didn't have a tool with me to remove the stock at the range, but needed to pull the bolt - not sure if it was designed this way (isn't mentioned in the manual) but it'll work in a pinch. Still have to pull the stock to get a rod through the barrel though.

Frustrating design, TBH. Wondering how long before the stock mounting post starts to loosen up. Bought this for the wife and friends to shoot when we're out together so I can avoid sharing my primary. Seems to be holding up pretty well so far.
 
I just ordered one in 6.5 as my first PLR rifle. After my research, it was between it or a couple of the Savage chassis models. I'm new to the 6.5 world, so also curious what factory loads might work best. I know each rifle is different, but if possible would like to accelerate through the trial process. I'm sure FGMM will be GTG and will be ordering some of that to start since I don't reload. I'll be watching this thread, and adding to it once the rifle comes in and I get to the range.

eta: By the way what height PMR rings do you have? I just ordered the Seekins low .92" and will be mounting a Steiner with a 50mm objective. From what I've read, that should work.
 
I posted some targets at 100 and 625 yards in first post. It shoots sub MOA all day long . I also have a RPR that I just rebarrelled with a Krieger...still working up a load for it. Hope to do even better with it. The little red targets are 1" circles at 100 yards.
 
My LRR was my choice in stepping up from my Ruger American Ranch in 5.56. Don't get me wrong, shooting further than 100 yards around here is tough, but I can dream and working on my rounds for larger caliber. I also got it in 6.5 CM. It's so much fun. That was 40.3gr of H4350, Starline Small Primer brass, CCI small rifle primer. Scope is a Hawke Vantage 6-24×50 AO MIL DOT IR. I was indoors so I couldn't chrono it. Yes, those are my best three shot groups that day. My worst were at MOST 1 MOA (100 yards). Not bad for less than a year of rifle precision shooting. Also got the rifle for $930 brand new so can't beat that.

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What weight bullets are y'all shooting? I saw at least one 125g shooter here. I was finding much better accuracy at 140g rounds, but I'm still learning, and know I'm way more likely to be the problem.
 
Grip is standard ar hogue grip and forearm is mlok, scope rail is 20 moa picatiny, what AR stuff are you refering to?
being able to replace the stock and different options for the fore end. I'm not saying there is a functional problem with the chassis, I just don't like how it looks and you couldn't make enough changes to make it appealing to my eye. In referencing the chassis again I don't like the lines coming off the action in front or back. I know, first world problems....
 
Ok well for $950 not having all the bells and whistles is to be expected but as for performance i'm getting 1" groups at 300 yards with factory ammo haven't gotten further yet.and in my opinion its sweet looking
Just saying
 
Ok well for $950 not having all the bells and whistles is to be expected but as for performance i'm getting 1" groups at 300 yards with factory ammo haven't gotten further yet.and in my opinion its sweet looking
Just saying
No problem man just rock what you got. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder