As more and more shooters are turning to the rimfire - be it .17 or .22 cal - as an economical platform for training for centerfire, for serious recreational shooting, or as a valid entry for competition, more and more rimfire shooters are turning to the "tactical / precision" style of rimfire shooting. Hopefully the below will help cover some of the basic equipment to consider when going this route.
As far as picking a rifle, there are many on the market that will "fit the bill" and depending on your budget and preferences, you can browse several manufacturer's (Savage, Marlin, CZ, Anshutz, Sako, Ruger, Cooper, Kimber, Remington, etc.) and could range in price from under $200.00 to $2,000.00. I do prefer a heavy or "bull" barrel as they tend to reduce barrel harmonics / whip and print better hits / groups on paper. If it is already equipped, and adjustable trigger is nice. If the rifle you are looking at doesn't have one, see if a replacement adjustable trigger is available for it. It's nice to eliminate a flinch or pulled shot due to trigger poundange / creep / and break, and concentrate on other fundamentals.
If using the rimfire specifically as a trainer for a centerfire setup (either bolt or semi), I'd suggest getting a rimfire that is of similiar operation, dimensions, and weight. Find by looking at a ballistic calculator and actual field results the drop of your rimfire ammo, then compare it to the centerfire you are trying to emulate. For example:
I prefer a .22lr for those purposes as the arch of bullet (as compared to the flatter trajectory of .22 mag or .17 hmr) means you have to adjust more for diffent distances - which is the point of learning or practicing - plus there are many, many dirrent bullet styles and velocities for any particular application (from super quick hyper velocities to sub sonic and primer only quiet loads). Standard, Match, or sub sonic velocity ammo is probably your best best as they stay most consistant at further distances (transonic destabilization with High velocity ammo as it slows down). Plus the lower velocity ammo is generally quieter, allowing you to practice / shoot closer to an urban area without the residents getting all upset. Another reason I prefer .22lr for target shooting / training / practice is that there are more competitions out there to participate in that are .22lr only - Smallbore and cowboy silhouette, CMP national rimfire sporter, NRA 4 position, NRA prone, ARA benchrest, Ruger steel challenge, and a few others.
Some .22lr ammos are expensive, but you get some <span style="font-style: italic">quality</span> trigger time using better ammo, and by matching what ammo works the best through your particular rifle. There are times when a less expensive ammo works really well in a rifle, but even the pricier stuff is more economical than other rimfire calibers, which is also a big plus.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Scopes</span></span> - there are many out there that will work out, again depends on your budget and application. You should be able to find something here: 22 scope+ mounts+rings threads to lead you in the right direction, along with some optic FAQs Thoughts on picking a scope for a rimfire.. I would definately put a MOA sloped base on the rifle before mounting an optic, as its nice to already have it in place if you choose to shoot at longer distances (it tips the optic forward to allow for more elevation adjustment to compensate for the extreme bullet drop associated with most rimfire ammo). As reticles go, Mildots are practically the standard, this will help out what it all means http://www.mil-dot.com/ and http://www.chuckhawks.com/mil-dot_scopes.htm
The easiest way I've found to range or use the dots as holdovers is to actually go out and do it in reality. Many of the mid to lower end scopes use several different sized dots, they stick 'em in their reticles and presto - a mildot scope.
Many of the mildot info out there is based on 10x power on the optic. So you know beyond a doubt of what you have, get a sheet of paper, draw lines across for the average size (usually top of back to bottom of chest) for game in your area, or even the size of targets you are using if your not hunting game.
This is what i use on my .22 mag:
My general ranging / sizes out to 200 yards (more options):
On 10x ranging:
So if a I'm ranging a turkey, using the top of the back to where the legs meet the bottom of the body of the bird being the ares to be bracketed, and it takes the span of three dots to bracket it, I look at my magnification, see that it's on 9x for example, I know it's out 125 yards.
I don't use the dots for holdover, just dial 3.2 on my elevation to match the 40 gr. ammo I'm using for turkey, then think of what color ink to use on my tag.
If you prefer the holdover method, almost the same thing can be done, just zero in @ 25, 50, or where ever (whether you choose to use the center of the cross hair or one of the dots is up to you), then shoot at the different distances you go back, noting what dot you are using for that given distance, and what power your scope is set at.
Unless it's a front focal plane optic, the amount of holdover will change when you adjust the magnification. you may actually end up with several options of what dot to use by making the power adjustment, note the different dots at different magnification levels.
Mildot holdover chart rem. SS and sk match rifle:
Avg. high velocity mildot holdover chart:
Using the avg. hv chart, using high velocity ammo, to hit my target at 100 yards with my rifle zeroed at 50, and the optic set on 12x, I have to use a 2 dot holdover. on 10x 1.75 dot holdover, and so on.
This wasn't figured out using a slide rule, protractor, or using standard mathematical equations, but what the results where using actual equipment, and the results are derived from that particular equipment. By actually going out and doing it takes out the factor of the dots being the correct size and spacing apart from each other, depending on how the manufacturer of the optic sized their dots properly or not.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Ammo threads</span></span> - several threads with ammo information, trajectories, drop, etc. 22 ammo threads and som FAQs Thoughts on Rimfire ammo - Q & A part 1
Again, it depends on what you are trying to achieve, but a solid rest is absolutely important. You could use a pack to support the front and rear, but a bipod surely is handy...HARRIS / HARRIS STYLED BIPODS
Then there are the other trinkets that are not neccessary, but helpful, when taking it to the next level bubble levels, ACD, cosine indicator links If you are doing uphill / downhill shooting, a cosine or angle indicator is very helpful as the POI can change several inches up or down depending on distance, angle, and the FPS (foot per second) of your ammo. A rifle level is nice to have too as it reduces the chance of you canting your rifle which can through your shot off at longer distances.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Oversized bolt knob?</span></span> - yeah why not, it looks cool and also serves a function - easier to "find" to cycle the bolt, the heavier weight helps to cycle the bolt, more to grab a hold of for quicker follow up shots with gloves on, wet weather, etc.
A nice one piece cleaning rod with tips, some toothbrushes for cleaning, and a make shift tool kit with everything that fits every nut and bolt on the rifle and accessories, staple gun and staples for posting targets. Hearing and eye protection. A range bag or box or both to keep it all together. For example, I like these for entry level as they are economical and holds everthing in place:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/plano-shooters-case.aspx?a=148225
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/plano-magnum-field-box-lift-out-tray-combo-camo.aspx?a=351101
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/winchester-tactical-rifle-case.aspx?a=606349
I'd start off simple though, and add to your "tool box" as needed or as your budget allows.
If shooting off the ground in the prone position, a shooting mat is a comfortable thing to have. a cheap but nice entry level: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/roll-up-shooters-mat.aspx?a=389653
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Wind meter</span></span> - when you want to predict drift, these are essential. If longer ranges is your goal a wind gauge is almost essential to have, entry level:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/caldwell-wind-wizard-.aspx?a=261448
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">A dope / data book</span></span> - keeping a record of your ammo drop, wind drift, ranging information, scope adjustments, temperature and weather conditions, etc. a data book is a must, there's a thread here:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1658087#Post1658087 could be made up of simple index cards in a holder, just to start out. An example of one of my cards:
Then the cosine chart if shooting at an odd angle:
and a corresponding how to thread: COSINE ANGLE CHARTS AND ANGLE SHOOTING
Wind drift chart:
Before you know it your data book will be filled with formulas for leading a target, mil to moa and vica versa, adjustments for cold bore shots, where to adjust your zero if you change an ammo, ranging data, etc. so try to set yourself up with something that you can add or subtract laminated or plastic sleeved cards in a small binder.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">A spotting scope</span></span> - is nice to see your hits, but you should be able to make do with seeing them with a higher magnification scope if you go that route.
Check out the learnings threads for the rimfire competitions:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1328297#Post1328297 lots of tips, tricks, facts, and suggestions based on actual shooters experience.
I'd also lurk around the site a bit as there are tons of information that'll do you good. The google search function is a great source of finding it. http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=010955838166721108978:qcbx5qqy10o&hl=en
I put this together as a low cost trainer, you may be able to get something out of it: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - start to "finish"
I would say start off at 50 yards or less. when that becomes no challenge or boring, move out to 100 yards and so on. start out easy, identifing and correcting your mistakes at shorter ranges hones the skill quicker and is less frustrating.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Targets</span></span>- I've always felt that a smaller target increases your focus and increases groups, so i like to preach using smaller spots or even staples to shoot at is better.
Do some reading on breathing, trigger squeeze, cheekweld / eye alignment, as these are factors for consistant shooting. try dry firing to get the "feel" of things and to get down your squeeze. use spent casings or snap caps / dummie rounds to protect the firing pin. It's a good exercize for breathing, trigger squeeze, alignments, etc.
Another good read: Fundamentals of Marksmanship
When at the range, don't be afraid to ask a question or two. Just be an honest guy that knows what his objective is, ask a modest question, you'll get more help that way.
Also if you are a new shooter, get familiar with the rifle and safely handling it as much as you can and perhaps you should take a safety course, or read up on some firearm saftey tips and why they are there. Sounds corny, but if / when a new shooter does something pretty hazardous on the ranges I've been on......well, it's not a pretty sight. Situational awareness rule #1.
I've found that when I took the rimfire as a serious training / practice device that my long range centerfire shooting improved, my understanding of the mechanical and ballistic ends of rifles and shooting improved and became more fluent and easier to apply. Don't get caught up in the "it's only a .22" bull, you'll probably end up having more fun and trigger time with your rimfire.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 14pt">The biggest "tactical" tool of all</span></span> - the grey matter between your ears. Other than a rifle, an optic, and well shooting ammo through your set up, do you NEED all that other stuff? Not really, but it does make life and your quality trigger time alot easier, more consistant, or at the very least more enjoyable. Some of it is for looks, some of it is for function, and some of it is just because you can.
After all, "a craftsman can't realize his full potential, without finding the potential of the tools he uses...."
As far as picking a rifle, there are many on the market that will "fit the bill" and depending on your budget and preferences, you can browse several manufacturer's (Savage, Marlin, CZ, Anshutz, Sako, Ruger, Cooper, Kimber, Remington, etc.) and could range in price from under $200.00 to $2,000.00. I do prefer a heavy or "bull" barrel as they tend to reduce barrel harmonics / whip and print better hits / groups on paper. If it is already equipped, and adjustable trigger is nice. If the rifle you are looking at doesn't have one, see if a replacement adjustable trigger is available for it. It's nice to eliminate a flinch or pulled shot due to trigger poundange / creep / and break, and concentrate on other fundamentals.
If using the rimfire specifically as a trainer for a centerfire setup (either bolt or semi), I'd suggest getting a rimfire that is of similiar operation, dimensions, and weight. Find by looking at a ballistic calculator and actual field results the drop of your rimfire ammo, then compare it to the centerfire you are trying to emulate. For example:
I prefer a .22lr for those purposes as the arch of bullet (as compared to the flatter trajectory of .22 mag or .17 hmr) means you have to adjust more for diffent distances - which is the point of learning or practicing - plus there are many, many dirrent bullet styles and velocities for any particular application (from super quick hyper velocities to sub sonic and primer only quiet loads). Standard, Match, or sub sonic velocity ammo is probably your best best as they stay most consistant at further distances (transonic destabilization with High velocity ammo as it slows down). Plus the lower velocity ammo is generally quieter, allowing you to practice / shoot closer to an urban area without the residents getting all upset. Another reason I prefer .22lr for target shooting / training / practice is that there are more competitions out there to participate in that are .22lr only - Smallbore and cowboy silhouette, CMP national rimfire sporter, NRA 4 position, NRA prone, ARA benchrest, Ruger steel challenge, and a few others.
Some .22lr ammos are expensive, but you get some <span style="font-style: italic">quality</span> trigger time using better ammo, and by matching what ammo works the best through your particular rifle. There are times when a less expensive ammo works really well in a rifle, but even the pricier stuff is more economical than other rimfire calibers, which is also a big plus.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">Scopes</span></span> - there are many out there that will work out, again depends on your budget and application. You should be able to find something here: 22 scope+ mounts+rings threads to lead you in the right direction, along with some optic FAQs Thoughts on picking a scope for a rimfire.. I would definately put a MOA sloped base on the rifle before mounting an optic, as its nice to already have it in place if you choose to shoot at longer distances (it tips the optic forward to allow for more elevation adjustment to compensate for the extreme bullet drop associated with most rimfire ammo). As reticles go, Mildots are practically the standard, this will help out what it all means http://www.mil-dot.com/ and http://www.chuckhawks.com/mil-dot_scopes.htm
The easiest way I've found to range or use the dots as holdovers is to actually go out and do it in reality. Many of the mid to lower end scopes use several different sized dots, they stick 'em in their reticles and presto - a mildot scope.
Many of the mildot info out there is based on 10x power on the optic. So you know beyond a doubt of what you have, get a sheet of paper, draw lines across for the average size (usually top of back to bottom of chest) for game in your area, or even the size of targets you are using if your not hunting game.
This is what i use on my .22 mag:
My general ranging / sizes out to 200 yards (more options):
On 10x ranging:
So if a I'm ranging a turkey, using the top of the back to where the legs meet the bottom of the body of the bird being the ares to be bracketed, and it takes the span of three dots to bracket it, I look at my magnification, see that it's on 9x for example, I know it's out 125 yards.
I don't use the dots for holdover, just dial 3.2 on my elevation to match the 40 gr. ammo I'm using for turkey, then think of what color ink to use on my tag.
If you prefer the holdover method, almost the same thing can be done, just zero in @ 25, 50, or where ever (whether you choose to use the center of the cross hair or one of the dots is up to you), then shoot at the different distances you go back, noting what dot you are using for that given distance, and what power your scope is set at.
Unless it's a front focal plane optic, the amount of holdover will change when you adjust the magnification. you may actually end up with several options of what dot to use by making the power adjustment, note the different dots at different magnification levels.
Mildot holdover chart rem. SS and sk match rifle:
Avg. high velocity mildot holdover chart:
Using the avg. hv chart, using high velocity ammo, to hit my target at 100 yards with my rifle zeroed at 50, and the optic set on 12x, I have to use a 2 dot holdover. on 10x 1.75 dot holdover, and so on.
This wasn't figured out using a slide rule, protractor, or using standard mathematical equations, but what the results where using actual equipment, and the results are derived from that particular equipment. By actually going out and doing it takes out the factor of the dots being the correct size and spacing apart from each other, depending on how the manufacturer of the optic sized their dots properly or not.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Ammo threads</span></span> - several threads with ammo information, trajectories, drop, etc. 22 ammo threads and som FAQs Thoughts on Rimfire ammo - Q & A part 1
Again, it depends on what you are trying to achieve, but a solid rest is absolutely important. You could use a pack to support the front and rear, but a bipod surely is handy...HARRIS / HARRIS STYLED BIPODS
Then there are the other trinkets that are not neccessary, but helpful, when taking it to the next level bubble levels, ACD, cosine indicator links If you are doing uphill / downhill shooting, a cosine or angle indicator is very helpful as the POI can change several inches up or down depending on distance, angle, and the FPS (foot per second) of your ammo. A rifle level is nice to have too as it reduces the chance of you canting your rifle which can through your shot off at longer distances.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Oversized bolt knob?</span></span> - yeah why not, it looks cool and also serves a function - easier to "find" to cycle the bolt, the heavier weight helps to cycle the bolt, more to grab a hold of for quicker follow up shots with gloves on, wet weather, etc.
A nice one piece cleaning rod with tips, some toothbrushes for cleaning, and a make shift tool kit with everything that fits every nut and bolt on the rifle and accessories, staple gun and staples for posting targets. Hearing and eye protection. A range bag or box or both to keep it all together. For example, I like these for entry level as they are economical and holds everthing in place:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/plano-shooters-case.aspx?a=148225
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/plano-magnum-field-box-lift-out-tray-combo-camo.aspx?a=351101
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/winchester-tactical-rifle-case.aspx?a=606349
I'd start off simple though, and add to your "tool box" as needed or as your budget allows.
If shooting off the ground in the prone position, a shooting mat is a comfortable thing to have. a cheap but nice entry level: http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/roll-up-shooters-mat.aspx?a=389653
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Wind meter</span></span> - when you want to predict drift, these are essential. If longer ranges is your goal a wind gauge is almost essential to have, entry level:
http://www.sportsmansguide.com/net/cb/caldwell-wind-wizard-.aspx?a=261448
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">A dope / data book</span></span> - keeping a record of your ammo drop, wind drift, ranging information, scope adjustments, temperature and weather conditions, etc. a data book is a must, there's a thread here:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1658087#Post1658087 could be made up of simple index cards in a holder, just to start out. An example of one of my cards:
Then the cosine chart if shooting at an odd angle:
and a corresponding how to thread: COSINE ANGLE CHARTS AND ANGLE SHOOTING
Wind drift chart:
Before you know it your data book will be filled with formulas for leading a target, mil to moa and vica versa, adjustments for cold bore shots, where to adjust your zero if you change an ammo, ranging data, etc. so try to set yourself up with something that you can add or subtract laminated or plastic sleeved cards in a small binder.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">A spotting scope</span></span> - is nice to see your hits, but you should be able to make do with seeing them with a higher magnification scope if you go that route.
Check out the learnings threads for the rimfire competitions:
http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1328297#Post1328297 lots of tips, tricks, facts, and suggestions based on actual shooters experience.
I'd also lurk around the site a bit as there are tons of information that'll do you good. The google search function is a great source of finding it. http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=010955838166721108978:qcbx5qqy10o&hl=en
I put this together as a low cost trainer, you may be able to get something out of it: LOW BUDGET .22 TRAINER - start to "finish"
I would say start off at 50 yards or less. when that becomes no challenge or boring, move out to 100 yards and so on. start out easy, identifing and correcting your mistakes at shorter ranges hones the skill quicker and is less frustrating.
<span style="text-decoration: underline"><span style="font-weight: bold">Targets</span></span>- I've always felt that a smaller target increases your focus and increases groups, so i like to preach using smaller spots or even staples to shoot at is better.
Do some reading on breathing, trigger squeeze, cheekweld / eye alignment, as these are factors for consistant shooting. try dry firing to get the "feel" of things and to get down your squeeze. use spent casings or snap caps / dummie rounds to protect the firing pin. It's a good exercize for breathing, trigger squeeze, alignments, etc.
Another good read: Fundamentals of Marksmanship
When at the range, don't be afraid to ask a question or two. Just be an honest guy that knows what his objective is, ask a modest question, you'll get more help that way.
Also if you are a new shooter, get familiar with the rifle and safely handling it as much as you can and perhaps you should take a safety course, or read up on some firearm saftey tips and why they are there. Sounds corny, but if / when a new shooter does something pretty hazardous on the ranges I've been on......well, it's not a pretty sight. Situational awareness rule #1.
I've found that when I took the rimfire as a serious training / practice device that my long range centerfire shooting improved, my understanding of the mechanical and ballistic ends of rifles and shooting improved and became more fluent and easier to apply. Don't get caught up in the "it's only a .22" bull, you'll probably end up having more fun and trigger time with your rimfire.
<span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="font-size: 14pt">The biggest "tactical" tool of all</span></span> - the grey matter between your ears. Other than a rifle, an optic, and well shooting ammo through your set up, do you NEED all that other stuff? Not really, but it does make life and your quality trigger time alot easier, more consistant, or at the very least more enjoyable. Some of it is for looks, some of it is for function, and some of it is just because you can.
After all, "a craftsman can't realize his full potential, without finding the potential of the tools he uses...."
