Thumler's tumbler mods post your pics

1J04

1J04

Lost Squirrel
Full Member
Minuteman
    • Aug 7, 2011
    15,285
    33,538
    PNW WA
    #1
    I've got a few ideas on what I'm gonna do or wanna do to my Thumler's Tumbler when it shows up this week. I would like to see your Mods in Pics if you'd be so kind. Let's get pic heavy !!!!

    Thinking about either placing plywood under base with rubber feet, or plywood with same size piece of inner tube just to firm up the base and keep it from walking all over, then another rubber foot/peg for the motor and what ever else it appears it needs to do it's job better. Like to see your ideas at work and hear how they're doing. Ass you can see <<<<<<<<<<<< crap can be cool LOL :)

    And as an after thought, how ya do your clean out would be cool too. Hater's take a brake and move on to the next post. I'm aware there are plenty posts regarding this but at the same time it's a work in progress............ Post up !
     
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    #2
    To keep it from walking I put mine on an old bath towel. I like the idea of stabilizing the motor via a third leg, I may do that. My best mod was putting grip tape on the drive roller. This prevented it from wobbling and slipping, it runs much smoother with the tape. I also expanded the holes where the motor bolts up and made them into slots so that I could adjust the tension on the drive belt.
     
    #3
    Outstanding. This thing is gonna be here Thursday and before I even fire it off I wanna get it modified. Do you see any downside to bracing the base with a piece of plywood to fit inside and then put some feet to it? I guess I could be putting the cart before the horse but I'm chomping at the bit to get all the goods ready to do what's gotta be done. I'm 50 miles away from "anything" and gotta get my list together. Thanks for your time.

    High Binder said:
    To keep it from walking I put mine on an old bath towel. I like the idea of stabilizing the motor via a third leg, I may do that. My best mod was putting grip tape on the drive roller. This prevented it from wobbling and slipping, it runs much smoother with the tape. I also expanded the holes where the motor bolts up and made them into slots so that I could adjust the tension on the drive belt.
    Click to expand...
     
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    #9
    Images%5CJKA-2500.jpg

    6 of these

    1/4-20 Female, Free Spinning Fluted Knob, 1-3/8" diameter, 9/16" high
    McFeely's Square Drive Screws - Screws, Fasteners, Festool Power Tools and more
     
    #10
    #12
    Wish I had read about walking issues last year when I got mine. First time of use, it walked right off the workbench--bent the bottom just enough it had had an awesome wobble ever since. Still works fine, but can tell it's chewing up the rubber more than it otherwise would. Cleans great and figure I will simply see how long it takes to fail with the wobble-wobble-wobble.

    So certainly keep an eye on the walking. My best solution--sorry no pic--is just to run the damn thing sitting directly on garage floor--preferably one with textured or flecked painted concrete. Won't walk much, and even if it does, won't fall far.
     
    #13
    1J04 said:
    What is the thought on the polycarbonate please.
    Click to expand...

    A polycarbonate lid is transparent, so you can see how everything is going. It is also very rigid, and does not require the rubber gasket that is needed when you use the metal lid. To me, it is less parts and less rusty mess.
     
    #14
    I get it. Thanks for the reply.

    mijp5 said:
    A polycarbonate lid is transparent, so you can see how everything is going. It is also very rigid, and does not require the rubber gasket that is needed when you use the metal lid. To me, it is less parts and less rusty mess.
    Click to expand...
     
    #18
    I dont have one, but thought of making a lid that had stell mesh, so, i could clean ane rinse without loosing the stell media. The guy at the reloading shop used to use this unit and lost the steel media over time and he said it clogged up his pipes or something and had to get a plumber to fish it all out.
     
    #19
    My list of mods:

    I put an old pair of socks under it to reduce noise.
    Also, I use one of those timers people normally use on holiday lighting to shut it off after 4 hours.
     
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    #20
    Now that's nice. So what do ya think about maybe spraying the inner portion and/or the outer bearing surface portion with maybe the spray liner type material like rhino lining type stuff? Just a thought also. Lot' s of great ideas and I'm certain many of us appreciate the input. I'd think if ya sprayed the whole thing with the rhino type spray it would dampen the noise wouldn't ya think?

    Skyking said:
    He is one with all the mods you need.



    Extreme Tumblers Rebel 17 - YouTube
    Click to expand...
     
    #24
    Monmouth said:
    Get a rcbs media separator to spin out the stainless media for a tumbler of that size, get a very large magnet (250 lbs from harbor freight works).

    I've cleaned a few cases....
    Click to expand...
    What do you do with the magnet? I just rinse the stainless media then dump it back into the tumbler.
    Asperly Aimless said:
    Why buy something that needs that many mods?
    Click to expand...
    It doesn't need any mods to work great. I have no mods to mine and tumbled tens of thousands of rounds. I do plan to get rid of the wingnuts and get some of those knob nuts posted above. I may do the lexan lid to get rid of the rubber lid gasket but its not necessary. It works just fine out of the box.

    I run mine on a gun cleaning mat that has a rubber bottom and felt top. Keeps it stationary and quiet.
     
    #25
    Asperly Aimless said:
    Innovation? I guess. Sounds like free R&D conducted by the customer base.
    Click to expand...

    It's obviously that too. I'll give ya that. I've given that thought and that's probably why you now see the "New" updated version. But isn't that also the way we make things better by listening to our customer base? I dunno maybe nuff said. Just wanna get all "I" can outta this thing for "my" needs. If it helps "me" and "others", so be it . Thanks for the input.
     
    #27
    1slow01z71 said:
    What do you do with the magnet? I just rinse the stainless media then dump it back into the tumbler.

    It doesn't need any mods to work great. I have no mods to mine and tumbled tens of thousands of rounds. I do plan to get rid of the wingnuts and get some of those knob nuts posted above. I may do the lexan lid to get rid of the rubber lid gasket but its not necessary. It works just fine out of the box.

    I run mine on a gun cleaning mat that has a rubber bottom and felt top. Keeps it stationary and quiet.
    Click to expand...

    Great input. Like I stated earlier, maybe I'm putting the cart before the horse since I have no experience with this tumbler but from what I've seen on boobtube and read these are some of the things a guy might wanna do

    . If I find it works out stock for what I expect great. Otherwise it's gonna get dinked with. Lot's of good ideas and they're appreciated. Wish I had a dog in the fight to make a $ off this but just want to simplify this process as much as possible, and why not.
     
    #31
    Tumbler Update: Well, it arrived. That's the good news. The bad news is that a corner of the Tumbler box had gouged a nickel sized hole into the stainless media bag and now there are approximately 3 1/2 pounds of pins sprinkled around from Missouri to Washington and from one end of my home to the other. Great start. Called Midway and they are sending another bag for free. It appears I may only paint the inside of drum, make a footing, and dampen the motor. Should be good to go. And oh ya, the knobs, definately the knobs.
     
    #32
    I recently sold my Thumlers and bought a "Bigdawg". It served me well for many years, but I wanted to handle a higher volume.

    I painted the inside of the metal drum to offset any rust that may have started. The plastic knobs would be nice, but I never did do those. Likewise the clear plastic lid. Slotting one of the motor mounting holes to allow you to tighten the belt a little more is worthwhile. Mounting a switch or timer is nice. I run mine on an old bath mat like you have near the shower in the bathroom. Better and cheaper belts can be bought at a store that sells rubber products to industry. Think "O" rings for hydraulic cylinder. I used one that was slightly thicker that the original. Some type of grit tape around the drum stops a lot of the slippage. Just a few ideas for you.

    I don't see that modding a tumbler is any different than modding a Jeep, Truck, or Rifle. Its just the way we are! Lightman
     
    #34
    I wrongly figured that Rebel 17 would be extremely expensive, I really like the design much better with the ball bearing rollers. That's the only thing I don't like about mine since I tend to load it pretty heavy I always have to put gun oil on the Teflon inserts to keep it from squeaking. That thing looks really tough so I went ahead and ordered one.
     
    #35
    1slow01z71 said:
    I wrongly figured that Rebel 17 would be extremely expensive, I really like the design much better with the ball bearing rollers. That's the only thing I don't like about mine since I tend to load it pretty heavy I always have to put gun oil on the Teflon inserts to keep it from squeaking. That thing looks really tough so I went ahead and ordered one.
    Click to expand...

    Succumed to the pressure, and why the hell not !!! That is one hell stout rig. Maybe my buddy that bought my Hornady Sonic Cleaner my also want my yet to be used Tumbler? Nah, that'd be wrong. You know if $220.00 is about as good as it gets at this point?
     
    #36
    Guy's, I think that an acrylic lid is a great idea. Wouldn't have to hassle with the gasket! Someone said Lexan or polycarbonate, but it is twice the price for the same thickness as acrylic. I am going to take my red steel lid to the shop tomorrow and make an acrylic one. If it works out like it should, I'll offer them up to people. I'll order up the knobs from a bulk supplier, and see if I could make up a package deal for those with the Thumblers. Wish me luck, J
     
    #37
    I got the new wireless remote switch for the tumbler... works great! A+ purchase! what I really like about it is I can turn the power off to my whole workstation by hitting the power button on the surge protector turning off all power and the unit keeps the "sync" settings even with the power turned off. timed the first 1hour run with the cell phone and it was right on the nuts turned off. just need to read the directions when you first get the unit as you need to sync the remote to the switch. once it is set up the unit is good to go. the manual on / off button works with a nice "click sound". 1hour for the first cleaning for sizing & 3hour for the 2nd and final cleaning (just long enough to get the primer pockets 100% clean)... It is also hard to plug your chord into the unit but i think they do this on purpose so the plug doesnt pull back out.... so far, so good with the product!

    IMG_8131_zps9fd6ab9d.jpg


    IMG_8135_zpsbeb75725.jpg


    IMG_8142_zps2e460b56.jpg



    elfster1234 said:
    I just purchased one of these for my stainless steel thumler's thumbler for $15 with free shipping (was actually free once I used my discover card amazon points)... I'll let you all know how it all goes. Is it over the top for my reloading room? HELL YES IT IS :) !!! What I like about the unit is its perfect for 1hour for the first cleaning just enough to clean the brass for sizing, and then 3hours for the second cleaning to get the primer pockets clean. Should be at my house later this week and I'll keep you all updated with how it performs. If everything goes to plan, no more dealing with the crappy power chord switch & can hide under desk, mount the RF remote to the wall with the supplied remote cradle, hit the 1hour for the first cleaning for sizing or 3hour button for the 2nd cleaning for final cleaning / clean primer pockets, and go do some other stuff around the house.

    21HfRAytFCL_zps7b7bff0e.jpg


    Amazon.com: REMOTE Wireless Remote Control Wall Outlet.100ft Range(open space), Indoor use. Controls 120V/60Hz -: Everything Else

    Amazon.com: NuGiant 34000 Wireless Remote Control Wall Outlet: Electronics

    Wall Outlet, NuGiant 34000 Wall Outlet | Meritline.com
    Click to expand...
     
    #38
    I have a Thumbler coming in the mail in the next few days. I would have liked to have ordered the Rebel first, but sending the Thumbler back would cost like 30 bucks shipping. On top of that, the Rebel costs like 40 bucks more, which I can spend on some mods mentioned here. I bought some anti rust spray paint for like 15 bucks, a remote timer 25 bucks, and some of those free spinning knobs for 6 bucks. Other than that stuff I will have to put the thumbler on something to prevent It from walking, like a towel or shower mat.

    Simple Touch C30001 Auto Shut-Off Safety Outlet, Multi Setting

    I went with this timer because I like the hour settings better than the remote switch.
     
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    #39
    Silverbullet2 said:
    Guy's, I think that an acrylic lid is a great idea. Wouldn't have to hassle with the gasket! Someone said Lexan or polycarbonate, but it is twice the price for the same thickness as acrylic. I am going to take my red steel lid to the shop tomorrow and make an acrylic one. If it works out like it should, I'll offer them up to people. I'll order up the knobs from a bulk supplier, and see if I could make up a package deal for those with the Thumblers. Wish me luck, J
    Click to expand...

    A ⅜" square of polycarbonate is not expensive at all. Check ebay. I think I got some for about 5 bucks about 5 years ago.
     
    #40
    Actually, I think I am mistaken about the thickness. It seems to come in ⅛, ¼, and ½". Just make sure you get thicker than ⅛" or it won't seal.
     
    #42
    mijp5 said:
    A ⅜" square of polycarbonate is not expensive at all. Check ebay. I think I got some for about 5 bucks about 5 years ago.
    Click to expand...

    Mijp5, At the end of the day, it is not expensive. I have a ton of acrylic short pieces that would be great for the task. I pay 5.34 per sq ft for 3/8" acrylic and use it a bunch, and I'd pay 10.05 a sq ft for Lexan and use it never. I use 3/16" polycarb and it is a little more that double the price of acrylic. Just saying. No disrespect, and if you bought a short piece from Ebay, good on you. I own a plastic fabrication shop, and was going to see if there was any interest in providing this service to this great forum. J
     
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    #44
    I did'nt. Its just another barrier against any possible rust, nothing to do with looks. Rust-oleum in some primer flavor seems to be a favorite. A can is about 10x what you will need! Lightman
     
    #45
    lightman said:
    I did'nt. Its just another barrier against any possible rust, nothing to do with looks. Rust-oleum in some primer flavor seems to be a favorite. A can is about 10x what you will need! Lightman
    Click to expand...

    I painted the tumbler yesterday, I think I should have atleast cleaned the inside first. After painting 2 coats, there were several patches of dots that were not taking the paint. After applying a different type of paint, the dots were painted over, and lastly painted over with the original. At first I thought those dots could have been tarnish causing the anti rust paint to be phobic, but I looked at the interior rubber and it appeared to have been lubed. The areas where the dots were seemed to match up where the lube was on the rubber cover. I have never degreased metal yet, do you just wash it with dish soap then rinse and let dry?

    Edit: You can just spray down the metal with a degreaser spray, and wipe it off.
     
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    #46
    goodgorilla said:
    I painted the tumbler yesterday, I think I should have atleast cleaned the inside first. After painting 2 coats, there were several patches of dots that were not taking the paint. After applying a different type of paint, the dots were painted over, and lastly painted over with the original. At first I thought those dots could have been tarnish causing the anti rust paint to be phobic, but I looked at the interior rubber and it appeared to have been lubed. The areas where the dots were seemed to match up where the lube was on the rubber cover. I have never degreased metal yet, do you just wash it with dish soap then rinse and let dry?

    Edit: You can just spray down the metal with a degreaser spray, and wipe it off.
    Click to expand...

    Wholly Crap ! This thread is going "Ape Shit", no dis to your peeps GoodGorilla :) I did the hot soapy water deal to the inside of mine and shot it with Rust Oleum and got the desired protective finish. This is just another one of those things you look at and say "why the hell didn't I get one of these A LONG TIME AGO".
     
    #47
    Big magnet reason,

    Dump media in a cheap 5 gallon bucket, fill with a little water, put big magnet in a strong plastic bag, put bag in bucket to grab media, now put bag in tumbler barrel, pull magnet out of bag, media falls into tumbler, and now you have clean media.

    Easy to get sand/dirt in the media from picking up range brass.
     
    #48
    Monmouth said:
    Big magnet reason,

    Dump media in a cheap 5 gallon bucket, fill with a little water, put big magnet in a strong plastic bag, put bag in bucket to grab media, now put bag in tumbler barrel, pull magnet out of bag, media falls into tumbler, and now you have clean media.

    Easy to get sand/dirt in the media from picking up range brass.
    Click to expand...

    I did this on a smaller scale with a heavy sandwich ziploc baggie and a few magnets inside it. Works great, but did you notice that when ya remove the magnets and the pins release from the bag that they are magnetized for a while and stick together.
     
    #49
    Monmouth said:
    Big magnet reason,

    Dump media in a cheap 5 gallon bucket, fill with a little water, put big magnet in a strong plastic bag, put bag in bucket to grab media, now put bag in tumbler barrel, pull magnet out of bag, media falls into tumbler, and now you have clean media.

    Easy to get sand/dirt in the media from picking up range brass.
    Click to expand...

    What kind of a big magnet? Is one of those refrigerator floppy magnets strong enough to pick up pins?
     
    #50
    goodgorilla said:
    What kind of a big magnet? Is one of those refrigerator floppy magnets strong enough to pick up pins?
    Click to expand...

    A simple 1"x2" two per pack home depot magnets work, but the 250lbs harbor freight (it's cheap) magnet really sucks up pins. Granted, my tumbler barrels have 17-20 lbs of stainless media in them and my humble reloading setup cleans 5 gallons of brass at a time :)
     
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