Suppressors Thunderbeast QD vs Direct Thread

[m1a convert]

I was listening to an episode of "The Everyday Sniper" podcast with Frank and he was talking about cans. He said for the ultimate in accuracy use direct thread. He also stated TBA cans are the platinum standard for cans.

I am about to order a can from TBA. I don't know if Frank was talking about all direct threads including TBA or not.

So, direct thread on TBA Yes or No? If i do direct thread I am going to have to unscrew the can and then attach a muzzle break on my .338 to shoot it.

So is TBA the exception to the rule about using direct thread?

 

[346ci]

TBAC has a nice QD setup that would not be offered if it were not accurate, one of the few brands I would choose for that type of can(all of mine are direct thread). If you shoot a break on that .338 now, go with the Ultra QD. That way you have a break without the can.

 

[Strykervet]

One of the owners of TBAC will probably be here shortly. They're on here often helping and answering questions. Yes, there is no better in the business and CS is stellar. Their work is too, I have 3 of their cans.

So with some QD cans there's movement. It's been getting better. But a thread on is still better than some QD's.

Now the brakes that TBAC and Elite Iron use are thread over brakes. I've heard 'em say the mounts are superior to direct thread because the mating surface to the can and rifle are made by the same place and the mating surface is beveled and larger than the barrel usually. The mount can also takeup for some slop in the threading job. Since it still threads on tight just like a direct thread can, it makes more sense to use the mounts.

If you got a direct thread can, I'd be sure to make certain the threads cut are square and little to no runout.

My only direct thread can is an Elite .50 Alpha. That one's cut TDC so POI shift is always vertical. The brake is cut TDC to be used without shims, so I still have to use a wrench to swap, but I don't have to fart around with shims and other shit to line up the brake. This will be your problem if you wanna swap between brake and can with a direct thread setup. You'll want 'em custom cut to be TDC otherwise you'll be fucking with shims on the range or in the field. OR just get a thread over brake.

I have an Elite Iron .338 can. It's heavier than the TBAC, it's SS, but it's still a great can and a great company too. They're a lot like TBAC in a lot of ways, only they use SS instead of Ti so it costs less. The .338 brake is the same brake he cuts for McMillan's rifles. The .338 also goes over the barrel a couple inches to reduce length because it is a long can.

But yeah, if you're gonna get a thread over brake, it's TBAC or Elite Iron.

 

[Zak Smith]

The CB/BA mounts are better than direct thread in that: there is a conical instead of straight locking shoulder (more friction and transverse stiffness), there is actually more thread surface area, and "we" control both sides of the interface to ensure good lockup. The new SR mount has proven over the last 2 years to be just as repeatable and accurate as the CB/BA.

 

[kombayotch]

TBAC QD with Area419 Hellfire mount is pretty awesome. Have them on my 6.5 Ultra 7 and 338 Ultra.

 

[cruze5]

i use my ultra 7 on 223, 260, 308 and 300WM. i see no accuracy decrease using CB mounts. in fact they are more accurate IF anything

 

[thuls7]

I just recently got a ultra 7 cb gen2 with muzzle brake. havent taken it out of the box yet. my armor recommended me to get it direct threaded. im dedicating this suppressor to only one gun (bolt). only time i plan to take the suppressor off is when im traveling with the gun. so should I just get it direct threaded or just leave it CB? would taking it on and off for traveling effect the POI too?
My barrel is - 6.5 mm Kreiger Barrel 1-8 Twist
Stainless Steel in medium Contour
Finishing at .910 at the muzzle
Muzzle threaded 5/8x24 with thread protecter
Finished at 22".

thank you

 

[Zak Smith]

CB.
See post #4 above.

 

[thuls7]

CB.
See post #4 above.

thanks