Tikka Action bluing wearing off

[kravi]

So I have a blued Tikka action which was previously spray painted. I'm not saying I'm the one who spray painted it, nor am I saying that I am not the one who spray painted it. In my infinite wisdom I removed the spray pain with mineral spirits and a soft buffing bit for a dremel. Worked like a treat, except that some of the bluing is wearing off and I can see streaks. Over the next x months / years, I'm going to be building a new precision rifle for PRS off of this action, but would like to avoid rust (and ugliness, for that matter).

What would be the recommended way forward? There is (as of now) no rust of corrosion, the action is great. I'm hesitant to have it cerakoted due to concerns about QC and having a truly flat surface at the top for a rail. I could also just get one of those bluing kits, I suppose - haven't done that before, but I'm guessing it would take it back up to factory standards?

Thoughts are appreciated!

P.S. I've heard Tikka say that all of their actions are SS and I've also heard otherwise. Would this have an effect on the bluing process? If there are a couple of materials possible in my action, how can I tell which I have?

 

[oldrifleman]

I would be really, really surprised if the action was not Stainless steel. And if it is that is not blueing but rather a cerro-coat or other coating. Blueing is a controlled corrosion finish that is very difficult to accomplish with Stainless steel, It fundamentally changes the surface finish and makes it more Rust resistant

 

[KnowNothing256]

I’d expect you could have the action nitrided or DLC’d. Nitriding is a high-temp process, and some makers advise against it because with certain heat treats or other metallurgical situations it can weaken the steel; unless Tikka told me I could nitride it, I’d get a DLC coating inside and out (me personally).

But I hate rust on my guns with a fiery passion, a true visceral hate. My Bergara would have cosmetic rust dusting after an evening hunting deer in California, and I was pretty over it. Stainless (preferably with a hard, slick, corrosion-resistant coating) for me now, bluing is gorgeous but pretty hard to maintain.

 

[kravi]

Yeah, I think Nitriding is out for me. I am an amateur knife maker and am very aware of what over tempering or even ruining the temper can do to steel. I don't want to mess with the action on that level. That is kinda why I was leaning towards bluing it, but not sure if it would actually help the action resist corrosion. DLC is an option, but it sounds like it is cheaper to buy a new action than pay for it to be DLCed....

 

[HMRamateur]

I don't think it's stainless steel, otherwise I couldn't see the point of Tikka having a stainless version of their rifles either, which is more expensive.

You could cerakote it with the rail on it? Then nothing gets sprayed on the mating surfaces. I have a nitrided origin that also got cerakoted with the rail on it. No worries about QC in that regard.

 

[kravi]

I'm not sure. Tikka said all their actions are SS according to a youtube video I saw from Mountain Tactical (I think). The Tikka SS generally refers to the barrels (vs their coated barrels that some people think shoot slower than the SS barrels, but whatever). I could be wrong. Hence my confusion.

 

[Wannashootit]

BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE® | Brownells

Check out BROWNELLS OXPHO-BLUE® | Brownells available Online at Brownells Today and many more Metal Bluing products are available in our Tools & Cleaning Department.

www.brownells.com

 

[Baron23]

If it’s SS, then as said it’s highly doubtful it’s actually “blued” as that really an oxidation (read as rust) process.

And that cold bluing is, IMO, for touching up little mars or very small bits.

I’d have that sucker bead blasted and DLC’d, personally.

And I do have a Defiance action that Altus sent out for nitriding after it was manf and there is no negative impact at all. Prob depends on who you send it to for nitriding.

 

[kravi]

If it’s SS, then as said it’s highly doubtful it’s actually “blued” as that really an oxidation (read as rust) process.

And that cold bluing is, IMO, for touching up little mars or very small bits.

I’d have that sucker bead blasted and DLC’d, personally.

And I do have a Defiance action that Altus sent out for nitriding after it was manf and there is no negative impact at all. Prob depends on who you send it to for nitriding.

The challenge is that nitriding requires 600 degrees Fahrenheit, unless I'm mistaken. That will absolutely mess up tempering and change the steel. If you are extending the tempering too long (say 300 - 400 depending on the steel) it gets softer (lower Rockwell hardness) but more flexible. If you go above the proper tempering temp, it just ruins tempering. But the steel "looks" the same afterwards, but it is more brittle. Not something I'm going to mess with.

EDIT: granted, DLC looks more achievable, but is pretty expensive. Almost cheaper to get a new action...

 

[oldrifleman]

Honestly I would just sand blast or whatever and shoot it with cerrokote

 

[kravi]

Honestly I would just sand blast or whatever and shoot it with cerrokote

I thought about that, but I'm nervous about cerakote. Too easy to mess up the shape of the top of hte action giving me issues with mounting the rail (or maybe issues with a properly centered scope attached to the rail that is off kilter).

I might leave it as is and make sure to coat the outside with CLP whenever I take it out, but... I'd rather have a good finish that doesn't mess with geometry.

 

[oldrifleman]

I thought about that, but I'm nervous about cerakote. Too easy to mess up the shape of the top of hte action giving me issues with mounting the rail (or maybe issues with a properly centered scope attached to the rail that is off kilter).

I might leave it as is and make sure to coat the outside with CLP whenever I take it out, but... I'd rather have a good finish that doesn't mess with geometry.

Put the rail on it and then shoot it

 

[Sum Ting Wong]

Have a professional cerakote it, it’s normally around .001” thick.

 

[oldrifleman]

Yesh there are a ton of coated actions out there. It pays to have a pro shoot it

 

[Hunt]

Birdsong

 

[Terry Cross]

I thought about that, but I'm nervous about cerakote. Too easy to mess up the shape of the top of hte action giving me issues with mounting the rail (or maybe issues with a properly centered scope attached to the rail that is off kilter).

I might leave it as is and make sure to coat the outside with CLP whenever I take it out, but... I'd rather have a good finish that doesn't mess with geometry.

If anyone is causing a dimensional or shape change by coating, they must be blasting half inch steel ball bearings at 500 psi. Unless somebody is using some type of abrasive wheel or belt against the part surface, you should not have an issue.

Typical coating thickness for my H-series is around 0.001" and for the E-series about 0.0008". Some of the lighter colors seem to be slightly thicker but I don't use those anyway.

You should have a wide selection of commercial applicators that can properly handle CeraKote should you ever need that service.

 

[Caba]

I think all of the tikka ceracoated action are stainless steel, the blue actions are carbon steel.

 

[Wannashootit]

And that cold bluing is, IMO, for touching up little mars or very small bits.

In addition to small parts, I once did an entire barreled action for an Israeli Mauser that had a fair amount of surface rust. Blasted it and applied multiple coats of Oxpho. It takes some work and there's technique to the application to achieve an even finish of the desired depth of color, but when I was done it could've almost passed for hot blue. Nothing close to the durability of hot- but it's perfectly suited for the OP's application.

 

[kravi]

Thanks folks for the 411, I appreciate it! I'm kinda unsure of what to do now, but I've got plenty of info to make my decision by!

 

[KnowNothing256]

Thanks folks for the 411, I appreciate it! I'm kinda unsure of what to do now, but I've got plenty of info to make my decision by!

If you ask for advice on the Hide, and it leaves you more uncertain, that just means you were listening

 

[beetroot]

I’ve just come across a similar issue.
My T1x has the bluing coming off both internally and externally due to wear/use.
I need to get it re-finished as it somewhat frequently gets small bits of surface rust forming, and just removed the barrel (for reasons) and found a bit of rust starting to form.

I have a place close to me that has done Nitirding for me before and it looks nice.
I might message Tikka (or Beretta) and see what their thoughts are.

 

[mark5pt56]

If you can find out what temp SAKO/Tikka tempered the receivers at, then you could look at the nitride treatment if the initial temper is higher, your are good.

 

[ma smith]

Non-stainless Tikka/Sako actions are chromoly.

Chromoly finishes can either be blued or parkerized. Sako TRG used both, but primarily the parkerized, matte finish which is generally considered superior. I've seen a couple Tikka actions came in parkerized finish like the TRG.

Both original finishes can be restored by a competent gunsmith. This is not a DIY process, however.

FYI these finished are a version of oxidation...and will come off if you apply chemicals that are known to remove oxidation layers. Rust is a form of oxidation, so rust removers are one category of such chemicals. Another is any acidic (low Ph) solutions or cleaners, such as vinegar or whatever.

hope this is helpful.

 

[beetroot]

Just spoke to a place about getting an action Nitrided.
They said the process will get the action up to 570°C, which depending on the steel grade likely wont effect the heat treatment but is hot enough to start stress relief.

The blued coating will also have to be completely removed, which I'm not sure how well that would go. If you could do it chemically it'd be easy enough but you wouldn't want to go sand blasting the action, and I'm not sure how well bead blasting would work.

 

[mark5pt56]

1058F, That's on the bubble I think, I recall 1100 being a general number when I had mine done years ago. Again-the big factor is what the action was treated at initially, you may want to check.
Try Short Action Customs as he was who did or arranged mine, barrel also-which was an absolute hammer.

 

[.50 Cal Cow]

Another option is the Brownell’s aluma hyde. I used it on my Tikka and when taking the time to prep it well it has been a pretty durable finish. Key is also to give it a good couple days of undisturbed cure time.

And as for the action material if it was blued it is not ss and will rust. I’ve had my non-ss tikka actions experience rust in the past. Not bad enough i wasn’t able to remove it with kroil.

Brownells - Serious about firearms

Developed by Brownells, Aluma-Hyde II is a unique finish offering increased resistance to cleaners, solvents, and other chemicals. Aluma-Hyde is the perfect choice for gun enthusiasts who want to protect and keep their firearms looking great for years to come.

www.brownells.com

 

[tansinator]

Birdsong T for the win!!!