Tikka Barrel nut system question
- Thread starter cubswin
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I believe Hardy Engineering also does Tikka prefits? Actually i think thiers doesnt even need to use a nut. Dont quote me on this but i thiiink they offer shouldered prefit tikka barrels as they believe tikkas are true enough from the factory to do it.
Again im not 100% but its worth researching
Again im not 100% but its worth researching
Thank you so much! I'll look into them as well.
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Thank you all for the help. As a side note, I have done many Remage style prefits. I have never had a company say not coving all the threads with the barrel nut is normal. This is headspaced correctly. Is this ok or would y'all expect different for a $550 prefit?
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I have seen comments of 1" 16 tpi and 25mm 1.5 pitch. Which the two are very very dang close, but not the same. I'll pull that barrel when I thread it and find out for myself.
As for the above prefit with the threads showing on it, I can't say if it's head spaced correctly. I wouldn't want any threads showing, just a fit and finish issue to me. Was it that far out with the go gauge? How far out of the barrel is gauge sticking out?
Gents,
This is the normal barrel nut for the Tikka because of the constraint to fit into a normal, factory inletted stock because the inlets are pretty small. THe constraints for the barrel nut were as follows:
Must have enough thread to provide a stable, reliable joint.
Must fit into a standard factory inlet.
Must fit any Tikka action variation and tolerance variability out there.
Now, based on those criteria the barrel nuts fit each piece and also maintain extremely good, accurate performance. The cosmetics have typically been less important than making sure that everything fits and shoots accurately.
After speaking with the OP the last 2 days via email I will offer a second barrel nut that will encapsulate the threads but its' going to strike the 2nd criteria above. It will not fit every single Tikka stock inlet, namely the super light ones for the ultralight hunting rifles. There just isn't enough thread joint outside the receiver to fit in the inlet.
I"ll have samples to do accuracy testing on in a week or two and then I'll offer them to change out for folks who aren't happy with the existing cosmetics.
This is the normal barrel nut for the Tikka because of the constraint to fit into a normal, factory inletted stock because the inlets are pretty small. THe constraints for the barrel nut were as follows:
Must have enough thread to provide a stable, reliable joint.
Must fit into a standard factory inlet.
Must fit any Tikka action variation and tolerance variability out there.
Now, based on those criteria the barrel nuts fit each piece and also maintain extremely good, accurate performance. The cosmetics have typically been less important than making sure that everything fits and shoots accurately.
After speaking with the OP the last 2 days via email I will offer a second barrel nut that will encapsulate the threads but its' going to strike the 2nd criteria above. It will not fit every single Tikka stock inlet, namely the super light ones for the ultralight hunting rifles. There just isn't enough thread joint outside the receiver to fit in the inlet.
I"ll have samples to do accuracy testing on in a week or two and then I'll offer them to change out for folks who aren't happy with the existing cosmetics.
Makes sense now, are you going to have the longer nut as an option? I don't mind having to do some inletting work, as a light Palma will not fit in the barrel channel of the Boyd's AT1 anyway. How long is the extended length nut? So I can finish the inletting program for a bigger barrel. I'll see how the factory barrel shoots with a can on it before I swap it out.
The current nut is 0.64" long, the updated one is 0.75" long to get everything else done. Not a big change but enough that it doesn't fit in some of the hunting rifles without inletting work.
Thats some outstanding service right there. I have never met Josh, havent used his services yet... but I have shot next to two PVA built rifles in matches. They are hammers and look amazing.
I have a 6.5 CM Tikka Prefit Barrel Nut that Josh made me around 10 months ago. This rifle is awesome, It's a tack driver, right now it has 1500 rounds on it and still doing this everytime I do my part:
This is a three shots group at 100 yards.
This is a three shots group at 100 yards.
Josh did a great job above of explaining what's going on... the long and short of it is that the Savage barrel nut (and those that are similarly styled) essentially has a "skirt" that covers up unused barrel threads, whereas the Tikka nut that PVA currently offers is completely threaded, thus leaving unused threads exposed. In trying to find a solution that ticks all the boxes, certain compromises must be made.
I can see both sides of this coin; on one hand, performance and function of the existing barrel nut design leave nothing on the table. It works, and works well. On the other hand, I can see how the aesthetics could bother some folks. I think that Josh's solution as outlined above (offering a second, presumably larger barrel nut) is a great way to handle it; it should be noted, however, that even at that, there is a compromise (in regard to fitting existing inlets)...
I can see both sides of this coin; on one hand, performance and function of the existing barrel nut design leave nothing on the table. It works, and works well. On the other hand, I can see how the aesthetics could bother some folks. I think that Josh's solution as outlined above (offering a second, presumably larger barrel nut) is a great way to handle it; it should be noted, however, that even at that, there is a compromise (in regard to fitting existing inlets)...
I originally posted to see what options I had for tikka prefit going forward. No bashing intended. Thru talking to Josh via email he took my opinion to heart and beyond. Before he posted here he asked my opinion of how I thought the nut should be and started making a change already, on Sunday! That is some SERIOUS listening to feedback! I'm kinda beyond words. Shops don't do that. I'm talking to him about another barrel now that I will be ordering this month. He even called me yesterday (Sunday) to communicate more. He has all my business going forward. Thank you Josh and PVA!!!
West Texas Ordnance also does them. They do a U-Shaped lug with a Allen screw torqued to 30 in-lbs. Untorque the screw, remove barrel with hands, install new barrel hand tight, tighten Allen screw. No need to remove barrelled action from stock/chassis.
I am still trying to decide if this is more of a need or want for me. In 4 months I have already put 1,000rds through the Tikka and I suspect the rounds/month with only increase as I have better access now to longer distances.
I was considering doing .223, 6.5CM, and 7mm Rem Mag. I am sure it would be worth it, but it is a lot of money to get three new barrels chambered. I might just get the 6.5CM and the system installed and add on from there.
I am still trying to decide if this is more of a need or want for me. In 4 months I have already put 1,000rds through the Tikka and I suspect the rounds/month with only increase as I have better access now to longer distances.
I was considering doing .223, 6.5CM, and 7mm Rem Mag. I am sure it would be worth it, but it is a lot of money to get three new barrels chambered. I might just get the 6.5CM and the system installed and add on from there.
I don't see why not, if you look on Instagram they have pictures where they do not include the "lug" in the Switch Lug system so it is just a threaded collar with the Allen screw
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This is what their website says:
"Lugless Switchlug made to interface with actions that have a recoil lug integrated into them. For integraded actions, the face of the action will be machined for two pins, concentric to the bore line, and then the lug simply slides right on! The Switchlug IL also retains the 30 in/lb torque setting.
These actions include:
Surgeon 591 & 1086
Defiance Deviant
Big Horn TL3
The Up Coming Curtis Vector"
I don't now if Tikka action has enough space for drilling the holes you will need to fix the nut. I will try to ask them and post.
I took my .260 barrel off of my CTR and spun on a new take off 6.5 Creedmoor CTR barrel. It headspaced perfect without and work. I torqued it to 100 ft lbs and it was good to go. The markings on the barrel were even in the right place.
Wouldn't you have to get another bolt to go to .223 from 6.5? I have headr Tikka bolts are hard to get from Beretta.
The bolts can be purchased directly on Brownells' website but they're not cheap...
Also, on the WTO. All of the listed actions there have 1-1/16" nominal thread majors, the tikka is much smaller than that (1" nominal) and you won't get enough closure on the lug to make it work. They would need to make one for the smaller tenon size.
American Rifle Company is working on their version and Ted has already told me he would do the major sizes 1", 1-1/16" and even 1-1/8 if there was a call for it.
Hi all, this is a slightly related question, but what action wrench are you guys using for the Tikka T3?
I know that Nathan from straightshotgunsmithing was doing some nuts for the tikka the last time I was in his shop. They looked really nice.
deano
deano
I tweaked my PVA wrench trying to get my factory barrel off. I ended up having a friend make a relief cut in my old barrel just in front of the action. I can swap barrels pretty easy now.
I am still waiting on an email from WTO but found an older thread stating they did them for Tikka’s
Hence the idea from getting a bolt from a used donor rifle or from a EuroOptic closeout T3
I was wrong dannySH I just received an email back from West Texas Ordnance:
Branson,
The SwitchLug is not compatible with the Tikka action. Designing one specifically for Tikka's is a future possibility, subject to the amount of marketplace demand. Thanks!
Clayton
The updated barrel nut that is mentioned above is now on hand. For existing customers that want to change it out I will swap it at no additional cost past returning the old one.
Here's a picture showing the 2 next to each other. Note also that the crowfoot wrench is modified to make it more resilient to crooked installation forces. Previously it worked exactly as designed so long as it was held in plane. It was not possible to over-torque the barrel nut. Now it will be so a torque wrench is HIGHLY recommended but there should be less tendency for crooked torque application to "potato chip" the crowfoot.
Anyone that is looking to swap out their existing nut simply shoot me an email and I'll get you setup.
The website has also been updated to show the difference in a photo and to have a call-out box that stipulates which barrel nut length is to accompany the barrel at the time of delivery.
Here's a picture showing the 2 next to each other. Note also that the crowfoot wrench is modified to make it more resilient to crooked installation forces. Previously it worked exactly as designed so long as it was held in plane. It was not possible to over-torque the barrel nut. Now it will be so a torque wrench is HIGHLY recommended but there should be less tendency for crooked torque application to "potato chip" the crowfoot.
Anyone that is looking to swap out their existing nut simply shoot me an email and I'll get you setup.
The website has also been updated to show the difference in a photo and to have a call-out box that stipulates which barrel nut length is to accompany the barrel at the time of delivery.
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You know, I had already gathered that PVA was a top notch outfit, but the above post coupled with listening to Josh’s podcasts removes all doubt. I’ve got a Tikka with a custom barrel. When I burn that sucker out, I will be switching to a PVA barrel/nut system.
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