Tikka CTR price

Gobears16

Sergeant of the Hide
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Jun 13, 2018
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Blackhawk, Ca
Have an opportunity to pick up a 20 or 24in 6.5 CTR FOR $800. This is a blues version. Is this a good deal or should I look for a used ctr?

I’m thinking of putting the ctr into a XLR Element or bravo. This will be a steel/range gun. Any advice to modifying the CTR?
 
Compare to prices on Gunbroker. That is pretty good from what I've seen.

On upgrading check out the tikka thread. Yes it is over 111 pages. Worth it to work through from the beginning. Lots of good stuff there.

Krg does good stuff. Might be good to look through the Bravo threads. Krg is going to come out with a ctr mag Bravo sometime. @Massoud for details especially in its thread.

Sterk (@cannoncrossfire here) makes good pretty stuff.
 
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Yeah, that’s a decent price for new. As to putting a CTR in a Bravo; just did that exact thing for my brother.

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KRG Bravo, enclosed fore end with ARCA/RRS rail, APA LB brake, adjustable buttplate, USO B-17, Atlas Gen 2 CAL bipod and ARC M-10 rings.

ETA: And MDT Mags
 
$800 is a good price. Definitely get the 24 inch barrel. Speaking from experience, the 20" is very slow. Very accurate, but a lot slower than other factory options. Drop it into a KRG bravo, swap out the rail for a 20moa and you're ready.
 
$800 is a good price. Definitely get the 24 inch barrel. Speaking from experience, the 20" is very slow. Very accurate, but a lot slower than other factory options. Drop it into a KRG bravo, swap out the rail for a 20moa and you're ready.

Good to know. I was thinking of going 20 for a truck gun. Our range goes out to a mile but if the barrels are that slow I’d rather have the extra speed... would I need a 20 moa rail to get past 1000k+
 
$800 is a good price. Definitely get the 24 inch barrel. Speaking from experience, the 20" is very slow. Very accurate, but a lot slower than other factory options. Drop it into a KRG bravo, swap out the rail for a 20moa and you're ready.
Tikkas are a little slower but it makes no difference unless you are looking for the last few yards of the cartridge. Other than that it amounts to a few extra clicks on the elevation turret. Windage really isn’t affected much. Maybe an extra .1 mil at 800 yards or so.

That is a fair price OP.
 
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That is a good price on a Tikka CTR. Normal price is right around $1k and I rarely see them on sale. I dropped mine in a KRG Bravo and really like it. I went with the 20” barrel however. The farthest I can shoot anywhere around here is 1000 yards and the 20” barrel gets me out that far without a problem. The Tikkas do seem to shoot a little slower but what they give up in velocity they make up for in accuracy. Velocity is irrelevant if you can’t actually hit what you are aiming for. If you hand load it is also pretty easy to
Make up the lost speed with the right bullet and powder combination.
 
For just the range I would go 24. Nothing wrong with 20 though.

I bought a 20 inch for hunting. Love it and have taken it out to 1000 yards multiple times with great results.
 
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What are people’s opinions on going with krg bravo or xlr element? I’ve never used a chassis and this would be my first. Also thinking of putting the Athlon Ares btr that’s on sale at midway.
 
Either will work (I have both).

The KRG will be much lighter. The XLR more solid feeling. It really comes down to taste and budget. IMHO, the Bravo is a better (economically) buy. But, the XLR is a bit more solid and robust.

YMMV...
 
I’m a big fan of KRG’s products and I really like their Bravo chassis. It is very comfortable, functional and relatively light. The price is fantastic too but to be honest I think I would still buy the same chassis even if it was more expensive. If you decide you want a heavier rifle the chassis is easy enough to add weight to. I have a sheet of 1/4” thick lead that I am considering making a weight to go inside the chassis at the front with. There is also a place that makes front and back weight kits for them that are not just weights hanging on the side of the rifle. They fit inside the chassis at the front and replace the LOP spacers at the rear. As you can see in this photos I like my Tikka’s and KRG bravos. This is my T1x, my sons T1x, my T3x CTR and my best friends T1x. Having my NRL rifle and PRS rifle the same has been great too. That is another reason I went with the 20” barrel.

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Purchased a 20" 6.5cm CTR last month for $830 shipped so thats a good deal. Its using the Athlon Heloes btr with Burris xtr signature rings(cause I'm lazy and didn't want to deal with the epoxy holding the rail on). Really impressed with the Athlon so I don't think you can go wrong with that Ares. I like the glass and reticle better on my Athlon but the tube and turrets better on my Vortex Viper. Hope that helps.
 
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Purchased a 20" 6.5cm CTR last month for $830 shipped so thats a good deal. Its using the Athlon Heloes btr with Burris xtr signature rings(cause I'm lazy and didn't want to deal with the epoxy holding the rail on). Really impressed with the Athlon so I don't think you can go wrong with that Ares. I like the glass and reticle better on my Athlon but the tube and turrets better on my Vortex Viper. Hope that helps.
The factory rail works fine for my needs. I don’t need a canted rail to reach the 900 yards that I have to shoot with a 6.5 creedmoor. I can get past 1000 with my scopes and a flat rail. If a man wants to stretch the cartridge to the limit or maybe shoots .308 then either your option or a rail switch would probably be needed.
 
What are people’s opinions on going with krg bravo or xlr element? I’ve never used a chassis and this would be my first. Also thinking of putting the Athlon Ares btr that’s on sale at midway.
I just ordered one of the Ares for my newish Varmint 24" 22-250. I really dig it, especially for the price. It's getting a Bravo before deer season as well, I'm thinking sako green with an FDE cerakoted BA.
 
Well after some liquid courage (basil haydens) I pulled the trigger on a 24in 6.5 ctr..... I’m thinking I’ll shoot it in the OEM stock for break in period then upgrade. I’m leaning xlr element based on being a little heavier. I’d like to spot my shots and feel the extra weight will help.
 
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Well after some liquid courage (basil haydens) I pulled the trigger on a 24in 6.5 ctr..... I’m thinking I’ll shoot it in the OEM stock for break in period then upgrade. I’m leaning xlr element based on being a little heavier. I’d like to spot my shots and feel the extra weight will help.
Originally from TheGerman
How to break in a new rifle.jpg
 
That always helps, them the next morning an email from PayPal pops up and your like o shit what did I buy

It makes me feel guilty for about 30 seconds then I’m excited and find 20 ways to justify the purchase.... I’m also guilty of telling myself I’ll sell a bunch of gear to cover the cost and then never sell anything haha
 
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