Tikka CTR with a Tac A1 Chassis

[vadim97]

So the genius that I am, I just bought a used Tikka Tac A1 chassis that I was hoping to drop my CTR into, but I haven't paid attention to the fact that CTR has a lower picatinny rail that doesn't align with the Tac A1 forened.

Having learned my lesson, I am going to ask the wise folks here before I do anything else... is anyone running the same set up?

Looks like my options are:

1. Get an aftermarket rail, such as: https://www.egwguns.com/hd-tikka-t3x-tac-a1-picatinny-rail-20-moa

• I guess with that I run a risk that it actually won't work on the CTR?
• I am also not sure if a 20MOA is what I need... Shooting 223 with a Vortex Razr II HD
• I will also need to put some rings on that

2. Look for a high enough scope mount with the original CTR rail

• Not an option because the fore-end ring is actually screwed into the Tac A1 rail at the top

3. Resell the chassis, chalk it off as a lesson learned and move on

Now that you are done shaking your head, any thoughts?

Thanks!

-Vadim

 

[CerebralDistortion]

The TAC A1 chassis comes with the correct rail. Maybe check with whom you bought it from and see if it is available.

Or buy a new one from Tikka/Beretta?

 

[vadim97]

The TAC A1 chassis comes with the correct rail. Maybe check with whom you bought it from and see if it is available.

Or buy a new one from Tikka/Beretta?

He took the chassis of a complete set up... Rail is attached to the action, not to the chassis. If I get a new one, I need to make sure the Tac A1 rail holes align with CTR.

 

[ma smith]

He took the chassis of a complete set up... Rail is attached to the action, not to the chassis. If I get a new one, I need to make sure the Tac A1 rail holes align with CTR.

A1 is just like every other tikka. Rail is not integrated into the action, its a bolt-on part. You need to get the rail from the seller, or find a replacement. All of this is pretty well documented in various places online, and alot of guys 2018-2020 were documenting all of thi when they were new. Keep in mind Tikka uses some kind of adhesive or whatever on the rails, ya'll will need to have heat souce to the adhesive to remove the rails.

Good luck.

 

[CerebralDistortion]

He took the chassis of a complete set up... Rail is attached to the action, not to the chassis. If I get a new one, I need to make sure the Tac A1 rail holes align with CTR.

Rail is attached with screws and loctite, I.e. removable, not a part of the action.

Several threads here regarding this IIRC.

Brownells sells a replacement by EGW if unavailable from seller.

 

[vadim97]

Got it, thanks guys. Appreciate taking the time to answer this. I see now that most people selling it list the rail as well. I bought on eBay and it probably is what it is at this point. I can't find stock 0MOA rail anywhere so it looks like an EGW rail with 20MOA is the way to go.

-Vadim

P.S. I did try to search relevant threads before asking... I guess my search-fu failed me

 

[trob]

He took the chassis of a complete set up... Rail is attached to the action, not to the chassis. If I get a new one, I need to make sure the Tac A1 rail holes align with CTR.

Yea…..he needs to give you that rail. Thats part of the chassis.

Ctr in tacA1 chassis….notice the rail

 

[vadim97]

Thanks for the illustration! We'll see if he stands up to that... At least I have a path forward now.

-Vadim

 

[vadim97]

To close the loop on this thread - I completed the install using EGW's 20MOA rail this weekend. Everything came together fairly easily. I had no issues removing original rail or placing the new one on. The only bit of fiddling was to shim the screw at the front of the rail that the forfend attaches to - there was a bit of a gap left that put the whole forend out of alignment when I tightened the setup. Thanks everyone for the feedback.