tikka t1x bolt diagram
- Thread starter eca7891
- Start date
Damn I thought about recording the assembly of Quad bolt, its quite similar.
I know having it there not ready is annyoing so this best advice I can give. Below diagram is for spare parts so it misses few parts.
1. Put the small firing pin spring on the firing pin head.
2. Drop the firing pin assembly to the bolt, preferably with the bolt slightly horizontal so that the spring stays in its place.
3. Now you can look the pin hole in the front is clear. It might require small tweaking forth and back to get it cleared for the pin.
-The pin is there to keep the firing pin from coming backwards.
4. Add the bolt handle piece
5. Add the cocking piece
6. Add the main firing spring
7. Put the red safety indicator into the bolt shroud
8. Push the bolt shroud into the bolt body.
You do not necessarily need a vice for this, I just pushed the bolt body against my lower chest with the left thumb.
When the holes align, push the pin in.
I know having it there not ready is annyoing so this best advice I can give. Below diagram is for spare parts so it misses few parts.
1. Put the small firing pin spring on the firing pin head.
2. Drop the firing pin assembly to the bolt, preferably with the bolt slightly horizontal so that the spring stays in its place.
3. Now you can look the pin hole in the front is clear. It might require small tweaking forth and back to get it cleared for the pin.
-The pin is there to keep the firing pin from coming backwards.
4. Add the bolt handle piece
5. Add the cocking piece
6. Add the main firing spring
7. Put the red safety indicator into the bolt shroud
8. Push the bolt shroud into the bolt body.
You do not necessarily need a vice for this, I just pushed the bolt body against my lower chest with the left thumb.
When the holes align, push the pin in.
Yes. I just opened my bolt 6 days ago in mild fever and after it was disassembled I was a bit puzzled but had whole day free. It did not take much fiddling after all, just patience to think it through. But small rush to get things back in working order sets in when doing these tasks.
After fitting it all together I took it few more times open and then buffed some surfaces.
If you get stuck, post a picture of your bolt and parts on the table, I can do my best.
Practice with the bolt vs your chest few times if its hard. I like being as tool free as possible myself so I refused to try the vice.
Now I can mend it anywhere with a small punch in the range bag. Now I just need some spare parts..
I got it.
Thank you.
I wanted to make sure that I was not missing any parts. One of those “ I don’t know what I don’t know”.
It was a rather rapid disassembly and I didn’t see what and how everything was oriented.
Surprise!
So for others reading, there is a fair amount of spring tension in there.
?
Thank you.
I wanted to make sure that I was not missing any parts. One of those “ I don’t know what I don’t know”.
It was a rather rapid disassembly and I didn’t see what and how everything was oriented.
Surprise!
So for others reading, there is a fair amount of spring tension in there.
?
Here is the best I could do, for any poor soul wandering in the forums afterwards.
3) Bolt body
4) Bolt handle sleeve
15) Cocking piece
17) Firing pin return spring
16) Firing pin
19) Pin 3x18 (mm)
18) Firing pin spring
25) Pin 3x18 (mm)
24) Spring guide / Cocking piece indicator
25) Bolt shroud
1. Put the (17) Firing pin return spring on the (16) Firing pin's tip.
2. Drop this firing pin assembly to the (3) bolt body, preferably with the bolt slightly horizontal so that the spring stays in its place.
3. Now you can look the pin hole in the front is clear. It might require small tweaking forth and back to get it cleared for the (19) Pin 3x18.
-The pin is only there to keep the firing pin from coming backwards, thus in constant tension by the firing pin return spring.
4. Add the (4) Bolt handle sleeve
5. Add the (15) Cocking piece
6. Add the (18) Firing pin spring
7. Put the red (24) Spring guide / Cocking piece indicator into the (25) Bolt shroud.
8. Push the bolt shroud into the bolt body.
You do not necessarily need a vice for this, I just pushed the bolt body against my lower chest with the left thumb.
When the holes align, push the (25) Pin 3x18 inside and finish all the way by tapping it.
3) Bolt body
4) Bolt handle sleeve
15) Cocking piece
17) Firing pin return spring
16) Firing pin
19) Pin 3x18 (mm)
18) Firing pin spring
25) Pin 3x18 (mm)
24) Spring guide / Cocking piece indicator
25) Bolt shroud
1. Put the (17) Firing pin return spring on the (16) Firing pin's tip.
2. Drop this firing pin assembly to the (3) bolt body, preferably with the bolt slightly horizontal so that the spring stays in its place.
3. Now you can look the pin hole in the front is clear. It might require small tweaking forth and back to get it cleared for the (19) Pin 3x18.
-The pin is only there to keep the firing pin from coming backwards, thus in constant tension by the firing pin return spring.
4. Add the (4) Bolt handle sleeve
5. Add the (15) Cocking piece
6. Add the (18) Firing pin spring
7. Put the red (24) Spring guide / Cocking piece indicator into the (25) Bolt shroud.
8. Push the bolt shroud into the bolt body.
You do not necessarily need a vice for this, I just pushed the bolt body against my lower chest with the left thumb.
When the holes align, push the (25) Pin 3x18 inside and finish all the way by tapping it.
Last edited:
Can anybody tell me how to remove the extractor? It looks like there's a vertical pin holding it in (that it pivots on). I tried gently pushing the pin out from both the bottom and the top, got some movement but not much. I didn't want to force anything so I stopped.
Any advice would be appreciated
Any advice would be appreciated
I had broken my firing pin due to dry firing, and this thread (along with some youtube videos) were very helpful in disassembly and reassembly of the bolt. I replaced the firing pin, springs and cocking piece that came in the tikka kit.
However, I now notice that the bolt is very stiff and essentially binding where the bottom of the bolt handle threaded connecter meets the action. Not sure if this will level out some as the new springs loosen up with time. Some grease helped but what used to be a standard smooth tikka bolt, is now hung up where metal meets metal.
Anyone have experience with this?
I will get pictures tonight
However, I now notice that the bolt is very stiff and essentially binding where the bottom of the bolt handle threaded connecter meets the action. Not sure if this will level out some as the new springs loosen up with time. Some grease helped but what used to be a standard smooth tikka bolt, is now hung up where metal meets metal.
Anyone have experience with this?
I will get pictures tonight
You could try switching the old stuff back, keeping only the firing pin.
New springs are sometimes mighty strong at start. Most noticeable with new pistol mags. It could loosen up after working it.
Please dryfire an empty casing before putting the old spring back to see if there is big change in indentation depth. A bit curious about that.
New springs are sometimes mighty strong at start. Most noticeable with new pistol mags. It could loosen up after working it.
Please dryfire an empty casing before putting the old spring back to see if there is big change in indentation depth. A bit curious about that.
