Rifle Scopes Tikka T3 Tac A1 - scope mount recommendations

I’ll get right to brass tacks here.

I recently purchased a used Tikka t3x tac a1 (chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor). With the purchase, a Sig Sauer Tango6 5-30x scope was included. However, as seen in the picture, it also came with some no name scope rings that I’d like to replace.

I’ve scoured lots of different forums but the mount recommendations seem to change over time, so looking for some fresh suggestions. I’d like to stay below $300 if possible (I know Spuhr comes up as consistently the best, but $600 for a mount is just a bit much right now.). Only consistency is minimum is 20moa

Appreciate any advice here. Also open to other tuning/optimization upgrades/changes to the rifle for those who have experience with them.

TIA
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Best bang for the buck and what I use on my Tikka Tac A1, and my AiAX. This mount was designed for exactly what you need. Quick detach and always returns to Zero for me.

 
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So it looks like you may have Nightforce rings - I'd keep them for sure unless you encounter some problem. Just make sure they're torqued properly. It also looks like the rings are set very close to the ocular and objective bells... I was taught that the rings should be at least 1/8" away from the bells.

Fwiw, rings have one big advantage on a bolt gun over a one-piece mount: the ability to optimally space the rings on the scope tube and rifle rail. Certainly, whoever mounted that scope went for wide spacing --> great stability... although I would have put each ring one rail notch closer to the turrets.

If the scope's current position works for you, there's no real reason to change anything unless those rings are right up against the fore and aft bells. I'd personally move them in that case, but that's me. If you're new to this precision rifle silliness, you might as well learn to do scope mounting correctly. You'll need an inch-pounds torque driver like a Wheeler FAT wrench - but you do NOT need all manner of leveling trinkets. There are plenty of how-to threads and videos. Just make sure you apply correct torque to the mount screws.
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I started my precision rifle journey with a TAC A1 in 6.5CM. Great rifle. Enjoy. Good luck.
 
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So it looks like you may have Nightforce rings - I'd keep them for sure unless you encounter some problem. Just make sure they're torqued properly. It also looks like the rings are set very close to the ocular and objective bells... I was taught that the rings should be at least 1/8" away from the bells.

Fwiw, rings have one big advantage on a bolt gun over a one-piece mount: the ability to optimally space the rings on the scope tube and rifle rail. Certainly, whoever mounted that scope went for wide spacing --> great stability... although I would have put each ring one rail notch closer to the turrets.

If the scope's current position works for you, there's no real reason to change anything unless those rings are right up against the fore and aft bells. I'd personally move them in that case, but that's me. If you're new to this precision rifle silliness, you might as well learn to do scope mounting correctly. You'll need an inch-pounds torque driver like a Wheeler FAT wrench - but you do NOT need all manner of leveling trinkets. There are plenty of how-to threads and videos. Just make sure you apply correct torque to the mount screws.
---
I started my precision rifle journey with a TAC A1 in 6.5CM. Great rifle. Enjoy. Good luck.
Thank you for all the details here! I am definitely new to the precision silliness and now that I know that I've got decent mounting hardware, I'll keep using those until I need something different (like a MOA tilt). I dabbled in the past with a custom built I put together, but now looking to dive back in. The scope was mounted by the FFL because it was just loose in the box (the shipper forgot to include the case so my FFL didn't want it floating around the shop). I definitely have a range day coming up where I'll be remounting it and getting things in the proper position. Luckily, that scope has a built in digital level (LevelPlex) that make it super simple. I still have a lot of reading to do as well. I'll be sure to follow your advice as far as mounting is concerned! I'll need to look up the torque settings and have a torque driver on the way!
 
I'll keep using those until I need something different (like a MOA tilt).
My TAC A1 in 6.5CM easily reached 1000 yards with a first-gen Vortex Razor 5-20x50 on its flat rail and early-on use of slowish Hornady 140gr ELDM factory ammo.

No need to dink with adding more elevation capability unless you actually need it. I do plenty of eye rolls when I read about people putting so much angle under their scopes to extend "capability" to ranges they will seldom if ever use while squishing the erector springs flat 99.9% or the time.
 
My TAC A1 in 6.5CM easily reached 1000 yards with a first-gen Vortex Razor 5-20x50 on its flat rail and early-on use of slowish Hornady 140gr ELDM factory ammo.

No need to dink with adding more elevation capability unless you actually need it. I do plenty of eye rolls when I read about people putting so much angle under their scopes to extend "capability" to ranges they will seldom if ever use while squishing the erector springs flat 99.9% or the time.
Its refreshing to get an honest opinion. Most of the previous posts I read (not necessarily here, but all over the web) 8/10 times you see people say tilt is a requirement, but good to know 1000 yards is solid on the existing rails. I'm in WA and the furthest range I have anywhere near me is 1000 (unless I head out to public land) and my local club is up to 600.

Appreciate all the feedback! Definitely have some work to do with getting it mounted and figuring out all the bells & whistles of this scope (plus relearning how to judge elevation and such since its been a LONG while).

You (along with all the others who gave feedback) rock!
 
Its refreshing to get an honest opinion. Most of the previous posts I read (not necessarily here, but all over the web) 8/10 times you see people say tilt is a requirement, but good to know 1000 yards is solid on the existing rails. I'm in WA and the furthest range I have anywhere near me is 1000 (unless I head out to public land) and my local club is up to 600.

Appreciate all the feedback! Definitely have some work to do with getting it mounted and figuring out all the bells & whistles of this scope (plus relearning how to judge elevation and such since its been a LONG while).

You (along with all the others who gave feedback) rock!
You might find the Online Training offered here to be of use. It certainly was for me. If you are paying for a subscription, you already have access to it. If not, read on.

You can subscribe as long as it's worthwhile, or if there other subscriber benefits you find useful. To access (I use a laptop; these instructions should be more or less usable with mobile browsers):
  1. Click / tap your screen name at the upper right of the window/screen
  2. On the dropdown, click/tap "Account upgrades" halfway down right column of options
  3. The "Account Upgrades" screen appears, showing your current status.
  4. Assuming you're a "Free" member, click/tap "Upgrade" on top menu bar.
  5. Click/tap "Subscribe" on the membership level you like. Online training is available in all levels.
  6. Follow directions.
You should now be able to enter the "Hide Online Training" forum. There are quite a few topics from which to choose... I imagine it's changed somewhat in the seven years or so since I used it, but I did learn a lot.

Enjoy.

One other thing: Keep a log for all your rifle's settings, environment data for your range trips, and so on.; A critical data point you want to record is your rifle's (well, your barrel's) round count. You probably have no information on rounds fired before you got it, but ya gotta start someplace. A gently-used 6.5CM barrel might go as far as 3500 rounds before its accuracy hits the wall (which happens rather suddenly); an abused one (hot loads, overheated barrel too hot to grip on your hand) might quit by 2500.
 
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...good to know 1000 yards is solid on the existing rails.
My TAC A1 still lives on in my ballistic calculator. It could reach 1300 yards with the Razor 5-20x50 on the flat rail and Hornady 140gr ELDM factory ammo at 2600fps (Tikka barrels tend to be slow). The furthest I've ever shot in a match was a little over 1200.

"Funniest" scope elevation thing I've seen was a guy who bought a .338 Lapua Magnum and put a 40MOA rail on it. He ran out of "down" before he could get a 100-yard zero with whatever scope he stuck on the thing... and at the time the max range to which he had access was 550 yards. I asked him why on earth he thought he needed a 40MOA rail... he said he wanted to maximize his range capability.... sigh.