Tikka T3 TAC or T3x CTR? (in J Allen chassis)

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May 17, 2017
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I'm looking at buying a Tikka 223 with 24" barrel, solely for precision shooting at the range. I'd prefer the heaviest barrel possible, so that would mean Varmint models or regular TACT model. Regular Varmints are sold out everywhere here (I'm in Europe btw) with up to 6 months for delivery and the Super Varmint would cost me more than the TACT model after muzzle threading and cerakoating, so that only leaves the CTR and TACT in stock.

Is there any added gain in accuracy with the TACT (which is an older T3 model) barrel over the T3x CTR?
Value wise, I don't think the CTR can be beat. But could the heavier TACT barrel have an increased accuracy potential over the CTR in absolute terms? At the end of the day, it's the groups at the range that matter the most to me, not the price/quality ratio. Price difference is around 600€ here, 1200€ vs 1800€.

For those with a Tikka in a J allen chassis, if I'm not mistaken, the CTR mags won't work in the chassis? Will the regular Tikka mags work? Or am I required to buy new mags, regardless of the model I choose?
 
I'm looking at buying a Tikka 223 with 24" barrel, solely for precision shooting at the range. I'd prefer the heaviest barrel possible, so that would mean Varmint models or regular TACT model. Regular Varmints are sold out everywhere here (I'm in Europe btw) with up to 6 months for delivery and the Super Varmint would cost me more than the TACT model after muzzle threading and cerakoating, so that only leaves the CTR and TACT in stock.

Is there any added gain in accuracy with the TACT (which is an older T3 model) barrel over the T3x CTR?
Value wise, I don't think the CTR can be beat. But could the heavier TACT barrel have an increased accuracy potential over the CTR in absolute terms? At the end of the day, it's the groups at the range that matter the most to me, not the price/quality ratio. Price difference is around 600€ here, 1200€ vs 1800€.

For those with a Tikka in a J allen chassis, if I'm not mistaken, the CTR mags won't work in the chassis? Will the regular Tikka mags work? Or am I required to buy new mags, regardless of the model I choose?
BTW thanks for mentioning youre in Europe. You have more options available than we do.

Don't remember the actual numbers but the contours are very close between the ctr and the varmint. There isn't going to be an accuracy difference between the 2. The only area I've heard of an accuracy difference is between the lite and the others but only on longer strings.

Does the tact have a heavier barrel than the ctr? Idk. Another benefit of the ctr is it is threaded.

J allens are AICS magazines. Definitely can't use the lite magazines in them. If you want to use ctr magazines you can use the KRG bravo ctr version.

Also the jae is currently not being produced. They were bought by mdt and haven't started production up yet AFAIK. @MDT_Josh?
 
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BTW thanks for mentioning youre in Europe. You have more options available than we do.
No problem. I figured it might matter.

Don't remember the actual numbers but the contours are very close between the ctr and the varmint. There isn't going to be an accuracy difference between the 2. The only area I've heard of an accuracy difference is between the lite and the others but only on longer strings.
Does the tact have a heavier barrel than the ctr? Idk. Another benefit of the ctr is it is threaded.
Tact does have a heavier barrel compared to CTR. 22mm vs 20mm. It does not sound like much, but if I made my calculations correctly, that's still a bit of difference in mass. Around 10 ounces? And the Tact models are rumored to have the same match grade barrels as the SAKO TRGs.
The difference in accuracy probably won't be noticeable at first, but only after longer shot strings, like you said. Any idea after how many shots the CTR and TAC A1 start losing accuracy during a session?

J allens are AICS magazines. Definitely can't use the lite magazines in them. If you want to use ctr magazines you can use the KRG bravo ctr version.
Also the jae is currently not being produced. They were bought by mdt and haven't started production up yet AFAIK.
I already have a JAE chassis. Ordered one for rem700 footprint, but was only able to get one for Tikka when they went out of business. It was either a Tikka chassis or none at all. So I guess I'm putting together a tikka 😅
Thanks for the info on the magazines. Now I know both Tikka mags wont work, I can take that into consideration when choosing which model. I can almost buy a new quality barrel with the money I save on the CTR and selling the standard stock and magazine. CTR is really looking like the best option, indeed.
The hart says TACT, the mind says CTR. I'll let the wife decide! 😂
 
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If i could do it all over again id probably go with the mpa chassis. My buddy has one and its amazing.
 

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Putting a T3X into a chassis kind of defeats the purpose IMO.
Why?
BTW Tikka already does it themselves in case you weren't aware.
tikka_t3x__t3x-tact-a1__pov__1.png

Also why should I fight with a light flimsy stock that doesn't fit me? Especially when what I want (left handed and stainless decent weight barrel) isn't even imported into my country. With my Tikka currently I have closer to a freaking chin weld and have to have a sling stud to picatinny adapter to fit my bipod.
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I see the Tikka as a quality rifle that works great out of the box without breaking the bank that is actually useful without having to change out parts or cut on the action. Especially when it has a great trigger. There's nothing that is broken or needs fixing. You can get a good action for the same price as a custom but also get a stock, accurate barrel, and a good trigger for free.
 
To be clear, the JAE chassis is the reason I'm getting a Tikka. Not the other way around.
So chassis or no chassis is not up for debate! 😅

Does anyone know of a muzzlebrake that would sit flush on the CTR barrel? Something discrete. I'm not looking for an ostentatious muzzlebrake on a 223. Just something too make the barrel look a bit longer since the JAE chassis seems to have a long forend.
 
Any update on your setup? I have a similar setup(tikka t3x lite in JAE 700). However, I couldn’t find a mag to fit my setup. The MDT mag fit the chassis but it doesn’t fit the action perfectly. I was wondering if you have the same issue.
 
I'm looking at buying a Tikka 223 with 24" barrel, solely for precision shooting at the range. I'd prefer the heaviest barrel possible, so that would mean Varmint models or regular TACT model. Regular Varmints are sold out everywhere here (I'm in Europe btw) with up to 6 months for delivery and the Super Varmint would cost me more than the TACT model after muzzle threading and cerakoating, so that only leaves the CTR and TACT in stock.

Is there any added gain in accuracy with the TACT (which is an older T3 model) barrel over the T3x CTR?
Value wise, I don't think the CTR can be beat. But could the heavier TACT barrel have an increased accuracy potential over the CTR in absolute terms? At the end of the day, it's the groups at the range that matter the most to me, not the price/quality ratio. Price difference is around 600€ here, 1200€ vs 1800€.

For those with a Tikka in a J allen chassis, if I'm not mistaken, the CTR mags won't work in the chassis? Will the regular Tikka mags work? Or am I required to buy new mags, regardless of the model I choose?
Hi - I'm a JAE fan boy and love that chassis. Not that there aren't other chassis out there with different feature sets but I do love the JAE and as you said, you already have one so that's that.

If you are not aware, @Tyler Kemp , who is the owner of MK Machining, offers a modified grip for the JAE. Myself and some others were just not happy with the distance of the grip front strap from the trigger and the angle of the grip. So, I sent him a chassis and he and his crew designed a wonderful replacement grip.

MDT, who I like a lot, indeed did buy JAE's IP, jigs, design, whatever and are going to reissue the chassis but with some changes to improve/streamline manufacturing and align better with their existing processes and standards. When asked if they could produce a alternative grip covers (as you know, the JAE OEM grip is a rubberized, flexible cover over the underlying chassis aluminum) with different angles/distance from trigger as they do with some of their chassis with more AR type grips, they replied that no....that part of the chassis will be changed when they reissue and grip features will not be backward compatible with OG JAE's.

Here is a link to Tyler's grip with some good pics of the grip on a chassis. I and others who have bought it and put it on our rifles love it. Huge change for me as I can't palm a basketball! haha

 
I have a Tac A1, not sure why you’d get it if you’re just going to swap it into another chassis, the Tikka chassis with a MPA vertical grip is pretty dang good, it also accepts AR grips and rear furniture, so that opens up a large door for any changes you might want to make.

The one flaw is the barrels are kinda slow.

If you want a precision rig, I’d get a Tac, toss on new barrel on it, vertical grip and add a yoyo Dave trigger spring (the spring is not really needed, but for like $10 and some bench time why not)
 
even AI mags?
I don’t think AI mag make a difference. The problem is the factory mag has a rear block in the mag which allow the bullet to seat a bit forward in the action. But, the AICS mag doesn’t have it. So. The bolt can’t travel back enough to catch the end of the bullet.( the head of the bolt seat on top of the end of the bullet.
 
I don’t think AI mag make a difference. The problem is the factory mag has a rear block in the mag which allow the bullet to seat a bit forward in the action. But, the AICS mag doesn’t have it. So. The bolt can’t travel back enough to catch the end of the bullet.( the head of the bolt seat on top of the end of the bullet.
There is a way to fix that. Take out your bolt stop and a file and modify it til it works.
IMG_0312ab.jpg
 
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If you don't want to modify the magazine release, just buy the long action bolt stop. I modified the factory bolt stop originally, over time when you compete, the modified bolt stop will round off and the bolt will come out occasionally. I have not this issue since swapping the bolt stop to mountain tactical stainless steel long action bolt stop. This are both tikka, one was a ctr and one was a t3x lite. If you are planning to build it, just get the light. There is nothing left but the action and bolt on both of these.
 

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Mdt magazine works flawlessly with the jae chassis, I rely on my magazine as a baracade stop and does not have any feeding issues during the matches. Just adjust the chassis magazine port snug and it will prevent the magazine from tilting and miss feed.
 
Mdt magazine works flawlessly with the jae chassis, I rely on my magazine as a baracade stop and does not have any feeding issues during the matches. Just adjust the chassis magazine port snug and it will prevent the magazine from tilting and miss feed.
Yes, I ordered the long action bolt stop from them. Thanks for the info.

what barrel do you use on your builds? I am planing to swipe the factory barrel with a heavier after market barrel.

the MDT mag has no problem fit the JAE chassis mag well. However, the round will still locate a bit backward in the action compare to the tikka mag. Even though after swiping the bolt stop fix the catching issue. The distance travel during the whole feeding is longer. I wonder if this increased the chance of feeding failure.
 
I use preferred barrel blanks for my barrel, it's pretty accurate. It shoots consistently under 1/2 moa. It's under $500 for shouldered barrel and the fit and finish are good. They have many different selection when it comes to caliber and contour. It will take some time to get, they will post their led times.
 
I haved been pretty happy with the performance. It's a 6.5 Creedmoor, shooting 123s eld-m at 3030 fps, h4350 still 1 gr under Hornady max published load. It shoots very flat with less recoil. For matches the 123s hits pretty hard at the speed it's going. Both rifles are 26" barrels and I compete with both of them with the same loads, as long as you full length die it.
 
Just a thought, if it looks like the bullet still looks like it's behind the bolt after swapping to long action bolt stop, your magazine might be canted rear wards. You can fix the angle with the jae, it's on the magazine release lever
 
I use preferred barrel blanks for my barrel, it's pretty accurate. It shoots consistently under 1/2 moa. It's under $500 for shouldered barrel and the fit and finish are good. They have many different selection when it comes to caliber and contour. It will take some time to get, they will post their led times.

Link?