Tikka T3X A1 Trigger adjustment

[Vartarg]

I'm finding it very challenging to adjust the trigger pull on my new Tikka.....

Are you supposed to be able to see the screw opening with which the allen wrench is supposed to engage?

It's a damn tight space for old, arthritic hands.

Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.

George

 

[CUBUFF89]

I'm finding it very challenging to adjust the trigger pull on my new Tikka.....

Are you supposed to be able to see the screw opening with which the allen wrench is supposed to engage?

It's a damn tight space for old, arthritic hands.

Any tips or suggestions will be appreciated.

George

I couldn't see the screw so I bit the bullet and pulled the barreled action out of the chassis. Then it was easy.

 

[ra2bach]

when you adjust the trigger on the Tac A1 is there a stop or detent? or is it possible to unscrew completely? are there instructions on this? I didn't see any in my manual...

 

[kenner]

The screw will not back out. It will stop at end of adjustment range.
torque action screws to 60 inch pounds

 

[ra2bach]

The screw will not back out. It will stop at end of adjustment range.
torque action screws to 60 inch pounds

excellent. thanks..

 

[Vartarg]

I couldn't see the screw so I bit the bullet and pulled the barreled action out of the chassis. Then it was easy.

After having read through the instructions in the manual, for removing the fore-end and then the barrel/receiver from the lower....I'd say you bit a BIG bullet! I'm not that mechanically adept, so I'll have to learn to do it the old fashioned way. Thanks for the response.

 

[KineticPerformance]

Pulling the chassis apart is the only way. It's not hard to pull apart or reassemble. I've done it several times with no issues. The trigger will clean up nicely and you ought to tear it all down for familiarity.

 

[Vartarg]

I think you're right....will do it. I've had some of my rifles apart before, even installed Rifle Basix trigger in a Savage target action a couple of months ago. Will report. Thanks.

 

[m1marty]

Pulling the chassis apart is the only way. It's not hard to pull apart or reassemble. I've done it several times with no issues. The trigger will clean up nicely and you ought to tear it all down for familiarity.

I just adjusted mine without taking it apart last night. Wasn't hard.
To add- I used a longer ball ended 2.5mm. It is directly inline with the bolt that secures the trigger housing. 1/4 turn or so at a time until it stops (counter clockwise for lighter) Very crisp. Barely any creep but there is a bit of over travel after it breaks.

 

[RNWRKNP]

After having read through the instructions in the manual, for removing the fore-end and then the barrel/receiver from the lower....I'd say you bit a BIG bullet! I'm not that mechanically adept, so I'll have to learn to do it the old fashioned way. Thanks for the response.

Not sure if there if there is a correlation but I have two Sako’s. To adjust the trigger I use a longer Allen wrench with a rounded tip which allows me to bet back where I need to be via tha access port in the mag well. Still a pain in the ass but it works.

 

[RNWRKNP]

I just adjusted mine without taking it apart last night. Wasn't hard.
To add- I used a longer ball ended 2.5mm. It is directly inline with the bolt that secures the trigger housing. 1/4 turn or so at a time until it stops (counter clockwise for lighter) Very crisp. Barely any creep but there is a bit of over travel after it breaks.

Hard to beat a Sako or Tikka out of the box. Hard part for me here in Az is nobody wants to work with metric thread for barrel replacement or re-chamber.

 

[m1marty]

First Tikka I've ever owned. Did a lot of research and can't really find a negative Re the a1 performance wise. To say I'm blown away with how it shoots is an understatement. Mine came with a brake, have yet to use it however. Barrel wise- I will shoot this until it's smoked and send it off for a new aftermarket tube
I'm sold on this set up, especially for the $$$

 

[sharac]

Barrel thread is 1"-16TPI only metric thread is muzzle thread 18x1

 

[KineticPerformance]

I just adjusted mine without taking it apart last night. Wasn't hard.
To add- I used a longer ball ended 2.5mm. It is directly inline with the bolt that secures the trigger housing. 1/4 turn or so at a time until it stops (counter clockwise for lighter) Very crisp. Barely any creep but there is a bit of over travel after it breaks.

I know where the screw is. I pulled mine apart as soon as I got it to degrease, clean the barrel, and ensure everything was torqued because two guys I know who shot them said check the forearm mounting screws. A long wrench barely fits in the mag well because of how high that hole is. You can do it but it was easier with the gun apart. Mine has no more over-travel than my Huber 2-stage triggers.

 

[RNWRKNP]

First Tikka I've ever owned. Did a lot of research and can't really find a negative Re the a1 performance wise. To say I'm blown away with how it shoots is an understatement. Mine came with a brake, have yet to use it however. Barrel wise- I will shoot this until it's smoked and send it off for a new aftermarket tube
I'm sold on this set up, especially for the $$$

I have yet to own a Sako that didn’t shoot. Sold a Sako85 and wish that I hadn’t. Out of the box the most accurate factory rifle at its price point in my opinion.

 

[RNWRKNP]

Barrel thread is 1"-16TPI only metric thread is muzzle thread 18x1

Apologies as I am a rookie and don’t understand your meaning?

 

[Conaso]

Barrel thread is 1"-16TPI only metric thread is muzzle thread 18x1

Sharac - Are you sure the A1 muzzle thread is 18x1 metric? My notes show it to be 5/8" x 24 TPI.

https://gundigest.com/tactical/tikka-goes-full-fledged-tactical-with-t3x-tac-a1

 

[sharac]

You're right apparently T3X is threaded in imperial and T3 are threaded in metric. Also the rimfire T1X has imperial thread.

Dunno about the barrel shank if it was changed i know mine has 1-16TPI (Tikka T3).

T3: barrel shank (the part that screws into receiver) is 1"-16TPI thread and muzzle thread for brake or suppressor is M18x1
T3x: 1"-16TPI(not sure probably someone will confirm) and muzzle thread 5/8"-24TPI (standard US suppressor thread)

 

[Vartarg]

Pulling the chassis apart is the only way. It's not hard to pull apart or reassemble. I've done it several times with no issues. The trigger will clean up nicely and you ought to tear it all down for familiarity.

I did it this morning...no biggy, and also installed the Magpul M-Lok aluminum rail to the EGW bag rider. The trigger is now only a tad above 2 lbs.

I appreciate everyone's feedback and encouragement.

George

 

[OG10]

Make sure you report back with a range report.

 

[Schralp]

I just adjusted mine without taking it apart last night. Wasn't hard.
To add- I used a longer ball ended 2.5mm. It is directly inline with the bolt that secures the trigger housing. 1/4 turn or so at a time until it stops (counter clockwise for lighter) Very crisp. Barely any creep but there is a bit of over travel after it breaks.

I agree here. I am not very mechanically inclined, and it was a bit of a challenge to finally find the hex nut by feel, but it is possible. I also agree that a ball end is the best choice, though I used a shorter one and it was able to rotate within the mag housing due to the ball feature. Play with it a little, and be patient.