Currently I have an RCBS press but I'm looking to upgrade. What do you recommend?
Thanks.
MDslammer
Thanks.
MDslammer
-
Having trouble using the site?
Contact support
Time for a new press
- Thread starter mdslammer
- Start date
What are you trying to accomplish? Putting out the most loaded rds per hour, or loading precision rifle ammunition?
Unless your RCBS is loading terrible ammo, then I wouldn't upgrade. However; were I to upgrade to another single stage I would give a serious look at the Co-AX, Redding Big Boss II, or the Lee Classic Cast. I own all 3 and the runout differences between the presses is minimal. I float the dies in the Redding and Lee, and the forster does it's own thing.
If looking to upgrade to a progressive look at Dillon Precision, buy once, cry once, and be happy.
Unless your RCBS is loading terrible ammo, then I wouldn't upgrade. However; were I to upgrade to another single stage I would give a serious look at the Co-AX, Redding Big Boss II, or the Lee Classic Cast. I own all 3 and the runout differences between the presses is minimal. I float the dies in the Redding and Lee, and the forster does it's own thing.
If looking to upgrade to a progressive look at Dillon Precision, buy once, cry once, and be happy.
I'm more interested in loading precision rifle ammo.
Will look at the ones suggested. Thanks for helping out.
Will look at the ones suggested. Thanks for helping out.
Yes, I have a few tools to do just that. Thought I might get a bit more accuracy seating the bullet/primers with a more precision press. Though
the RCBS has done a fair job. Just looking to get the most out of my loads like everyone else.
For priming my "Match" ammo I use an adjustable depth hand priming tool along with uniforming my primer pockets. Of course I uniform all of my primer pockets for everything I reload, but that is me just being anal retentive and needing something to do to kill time.
Good luck on your next press.
Good luck on your next press.
Still not sure *what* RCBS press you currently have.
I agree that if it's a Rock Chucker, then there's not likely to be any good reason to switch, for the purposes of assembling precision ammo. Unless the ram bushing is worn out. All the linkage can be looser than an old International Harvester pickup's fenders and the ammo will still be good.
I'm wondering if the ammo problem(s) that prompt the question are really die or technique problems.
OTOH, an out of square shellholder (at the casehead surface) can possibly produce ammo that would "two-group" from a two-lug bolt gun. Like two 1/2-MOA groups 3/4 or more MOA apart for the worst-case alignment of cases in the chamber. The effect, as I believe the well-known author of an obscure article (might have been C. Audette) documented with either a Winchester Model 70 or Remmie 700, starts to show up at .003 or more head runout, measured just enough inside the rim to not pick up feed cycle/extractor/ejector boogers.
I agree that if it's a Rock Chucker, then there's not likely to be any good reason to switch, for the purposes of assembling precision ammo. Unless the ram bushing is worn out. All the linkage can be looser than an old International Harvester pickup's fenders and the ammo will still be good.
I'm wondering if the ammo problem(s) that prompt the question are really die or technique problems.
OTOH, an out of square shellholder (at the casehead surface) can possibly produce ammo that would "two-group" from a two-lug bolt gun. Like two 1/2-MOA groups 3/4 or more MOA apart for the worst-case alignment of cases in the chamber. The effect, as I believe the well-known author of an obscure article (might have been C. Audette) documented with either a Winchester Model 70 or Remmie 700, starts to show up at .003 or more head runout, measured just enough inside the rim to not pick up feed cycle/extractor/ejector boogers.
I have the RCBS single stage press that came with my R.C. Supreme kit. I use Forster Competition dies for both my .308 and .338 LM. I only use Lapua brass for both calibers.
mdslammer,
Good advice on here so far. If you're looking for better ammo, stop priming on the press altogether. It's like using a sledgehammer to drive tacks. The hand tools that have already been mentioned will do a FAR better job, and allow for the sensitivity that you'll never get from a press of any kind. Pretty hard to wear our a heavy-duty press. I started with a Rock Chucker 35 years ago, and it's still there on the bench, even after being used in the lab of a bullet maker not far from here. I've loaded (literally) hundreds of thousands of rounds on that press, and aside from a paint job or two, and replacing some very minor parts in the linkage, it's good as new.
Take a look at some of the other tools in the process, dies and so on, before worrying about replacing a press.
Good advice on here so far. If you're looking for better ammo, stop priming on the press altogether. It's like using a sledgehammer to drive tacks. The hand tools that have already been mentioned will do a FAR better job, and allow for the sensitivity that you'll never get from a press of any kind. Pretty hard to wear our a heavy-duty press. I started with a Rock Chucker 35 years ago, and it's still there on the bench, even after being used in the lab of a bullet maker not far from here. I've loaded (literally) hundreds of thousands of rounds on that press, and aside from a paint job or two, and replacing some very minor parts in the linkage, it's good as new.
Take a look at some of the other tools in the process, dies and so on, before worrying about replacing a press.
Hi Kevin,
Thanks for chiming in and the advice. I do use a decapper/deprimmer die first. Then clean, trim, chamfer/debur, check primer pocket and then prime the case.
Any suggestions as to what I could do either during or after these steps would be appreciated.
Thanks.
MDslammer
You're on the right path. Spend some time with a Sinclair catalog, and I'm sure you'll come up with all kinds of things to add to a "wish list."
How far do you want to go?
A short list:
Sort bullets by weight and with a comparator.
Check bullets for run out and sort accordingly.
Uniform primer pockets and deburr flash hole.
Size, trim, chamfer/deburr case mouth.
Check case necks for concentricity and thickness. Sort as required.
Neck turn.
After doing all your case prep (trimming, turning, uniforming and stuff) sort cases by weight.
After empty cases are sorted by weight you can then fill them all with water and sort by H20 capacity.
You can sort primers by weight, but I have found it a complete waste of my time.
Now prime, powder, add bullet.
Now check loaded rd runout.
Go shoot. As you shoot do the very best you can. If you get non-called flyers, separate that piece of brass the flyer came from and relegate it to spotter/sighter rd use.
Like I said. You can get as redonkulous as you want, but for the most part you can get Sub-moa accuracy from ammo without going through all the craziness.
With this: Primer Pocket Plugs
Now, the purpose of my responses is not to stop you from buying another press. Well, not entirely.
The RCBS RC is a great press and has been for a log time before many of us were born. Instead; I would use the money you were going to use on a new press to buy bullets instead. Or maybe primers, powder, or whatever components you need. A press is a mechanical object. It will do exactly what you ask it to do. As long as it is within tolerance if you ask it to make very good ammo, then it will. If you ask it to make crappy ammo, then it will.
With today's rifles (especially the customs) if you stick a match bullet, over a consistent powder charge, with the correct primer, you will more than likely shoot sub MOA at 100 yds, and more than likely a good ways farther.
If you are trying to shoot bugholes, then pick as many of the above steps as you want and try them. If you just want to ring steel from 300-1000 yds then buy good brass, match bullets, weigh each powder charge, ensure consistent bullet seating, and go have a blast.
Don't chase unicorns. You can go from press to press and try every bullet made, but unless a SUBSTANTIAL difference is there then there is not much reason to. Seriously. Perfect your technique, shoot more, and have fun. I hope I did not come across condescending, but I see it happen too often where people chase the next best thing only to end up back at square one.
I appreciate the info. I did not think you to be condescending either. I appreciate your help and suggestions.
I get the best results from the following components.
Lapua brass, either CCI or Federal 215M primers, H-1000, Berger 250gr & 300gr. OTM Hybrid Match bullets. I do use other projectiles and powders but this combination has yielded the best results so far. I shoot primarily LR/ELR here in the southern NV desert.
I weigh my powder charges with a RCBS Chargemaster 1500 scale. For the most part, it's very consistent. I have a decapping die I use before I clean my cases.
I use Forester competition dies to full resize my brass. I have a neck run out gauge and a bullet run out gauge as well. I also have a meplate trimmer.
I guess I just need to pay better attention to detail(s) and continue to learn what's best for my rifle.
Sounds like you are doing things right, and you have the right tools. I would get a Comparator and an OAL gauge and call it good. You have a load that you have determined is the best in your rifle. Now stick with it, practice with it, and get to know it well. That will yield dividends compared to chasing equipment and the newest bullet on the market. Unless I see a remarkable difference in a new item, compared to what I currently use/do, I ignore it. Once load development is done, you have your best load, then stock up on the components that made that load.
Yes, I do have a comparator and OAL gauge as well. Just forgot to mention it. Good advice. Thanks for taking time to help me out.
"Shoot Straight & Be Safe"
MDslammer
To see much, if any improvement, you will probably have to go with a set of hand dies and an arbor press. You still won't see much difference. Stay with what you have. Lightman
Ever consider that sometimes brass just loses its accuracy before it's otherwise "worn out"?
You might be either just an anneal job, or a new box of brass, away from re-attaining your reloading Nirvana.
Then again, I just re-read your posts and I didn't catch any description of what the past performance was, what the current performance is, and what your desired performance would be. There are many hours I've spent trying to get "more" out of my reloads, that did not reliably change the results on-target.
You might be either just an anneal job, or a new box of brass, away from re-attaining your reloading Nirvana.
Then again, I just re-read your posts and I didn't catch any description of what the past performance was, what the current performance is, and what your desired performance would be. There are many hours I've spent trying to get "more" out of my reloads, that did not reliably change the results on-target.
you might want to look at the Redding Big Boss II.
i have one and i use it for my .338LM and it works great
i have an Forster co-ax as well its a little short in the throat for the .338LM you can do it thou.
joe
i have one and i use it for my .338LM and it works great
i have an Forster co-ax as well its a little short in the throat for the .338LM you can do it thou.
joe
It takes some effort to wear out a Rock Chucker. As has been mentioned, a co-ax press is nice, but not essential, in my opinion. A worthwhile upgrade, which is sort of retro, is Wilson straight line chamber seating dies and a quality arbor press. We all have different missions but consider this, virtually every benchrest competitor uses hand dies and an arbor press. Yeah, it's slow, but when squirrel shooting, for instance, you can do it in the field, or right at the bench, when at the range. Works for me. BB
In response to your original post, I would not "upgrade." Instead I would get another press, and this case it would be a Co-Ax.
However, the thread has taken a turn towards accuracy, and in this it's still hypothetical.
Rock Chucker and Forster dies, plus hand priming and a plethora of conformity measurement tools, you have all the right tools for achieving 1/2MOA or better accuracy.
If you still aren't there, it's time to open the discussion to your technique on the above, what your stick is, the combinations of powder/bullets you've tried, and most importantly, your shooting technique.
So, what kind of accuracy are you currently achieving, and what would you like to accomplish?
However, the thread has taken a turn towards accuracy, and in this it's still hypothetical.
Rock Chucker and Forster dies, plus hand priming and a plethora of conformity measurement tools, you have all the right tools for achieving 1/2MOA or better accuracy.
If you still aren't there, it's time to open the discussion to your technique on the above, what your stick is, the combinations of powder/bullets you've tried, and most importantly, your shooting technique.
So, what kind of accuracy are you currently achieving, and what would you like to accomplish?
Last edited:
New to reloading myself but I was really looking at the forster/bonanza co-ax for the longest time. In my research I found that the press appears to be mainly marketing hype and I could not justify the price tag. People are getting just the same runout with much cheaper presses using quality dies.
I'd keep your press but if I were you I'd ditch the rcbs chargemaster and get a GemPro 250 as it is a more precise scale.
I'd keep your press but if I were you I'd ditch the rcbs chargemaster and get a GemPro 250 as it is a more precise scale.
I don't have time at the moment to justify my reasoning, but I looked hard at the co-ax, finally settled on a Lee classic cast....love love the press, am making very straight ammo for 1k work and have no regrets, spent savings on powder and bergers
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
I went with the Redding Big Boss and love it, that was after I wore out the old Herters that I have.
Anyone with experience with the Redding 700 Ultramag Single Stage Press?
Redding 700 Ultramag Single Stage Press
I have a Redding T7, works great for me.
Redding 700 Ultramag Single Stage Press
I have a Redding T7, works great for me.
I use the Forster Co-Ax and the Redding T7. They are both great for different reasons. I also use Redding dies. I've been reloading for almost a year and have had great success loading for several rifles and calibers. My advice is if you want a new press, get one. You don't even have to have a reason. You think you might want one, so go ahead and get it.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
I've had an Ultramag for about 25yrs. It's a PITA reaching around the support links for normal loading. I only use it for sizing large cases or reforming cases into something else.
To add: The LEE classic cast (cast iron) is a highly thought of press in the custom BR bullet making world. I know no one wants one because it's cheap and says LEE but one well known maker says it's alignment in all aspects was better than Redding's and RCBS's and if I remember correctly he'd made upwards of 200,000 bullets on one and it was still going.
Last edited:
That's what I'm using and so far it works great. Get the Hornady LNL bushing and it makes it even better. The only downside I've seen sofar is the wood handle is press fit on, but a little JB weld fixes that.
