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Gunsmithing To bed action, full length bed or action and just ahead of recoil lug?
- Thread starter riverratt
- Start date
Pillar and glass the entire action, glass the bottom metal, and make sure the bolts float. If it makes you feel better, bed the first 1" of barrel.
Either way, it can be redone easily if it doesn't shoot and you want to bed/unbed that first inch.
Either way, it can be redone easily if it doesn't shoot and you want to bed/unbed that first inch.
My take: Everything behind the recoil lug - nothing in front. Small gap in front, sides and under lug. So the only thing bedded on the lug is the back. Some layers of electrical tape will create the gap under and on the sides. Free float barrel to lug.
Did my 30-06 rem 700 Hunting Rifle and with hand loads went from 1.5+ inch groups to .3 inch groups.
Did my 30-06 rem 700 Hunting Rifle and with hand loads went from 1.5+ inch groups to .3 inch groups.
I used Score Hi’s kit : http://www.scorehi.com/our-products/ Definitely do the pillars too. When I did mine they would drill your stock for free if you bought the kit. Of course you have to send just the stock to them and pay shipping home. Awesome folks to dealt with and I think the owner is a SH Member.
If a wooden stock, pillar bed. Manners/Mcmillan, really doesn't need pillars but you can do them if it makes you happy.
I tape off the front, bottom, and sides of the lug, and I ONLY bed directly around the recoil lug, and front/rear action screws. A few small dabs. I haven't found any performance benefit to full-length bedding, but it sure can be a fucking full-on mess real quick. Do what makes you happy, but the first thing I described works, and there is little to no cleanup required afterward.
I tape off the front, bottom, and sides of the lug, and I ONLY bed directly around the recoil lug, and front/rear action screws. A few small dabs. I haven't found any performance benefit to full-length bedding, but it sure can be a fucking full-on mess real quick. Do what makes you happy, but the first thing I described works, and there is little to no cleanup required afterward.
Here is a video of mine (actually a slide show)(below). Note that I did originally bed the first two inches of the barrel and tight on sides and front of lug. I later relieved those areas....
Score Hi’s epoxy is very easy to work with (“glass bedding” I’m told is a misnomer for “epoxy-bedding”). It has almost no fumes and cleans up with low VOC mineral spirits. I did mine in my small den on a winter day. As you will see I taped everything off with blue painters tape and then everything else got a coat of release agent. Also Score Hi’s epoxy is impervious to gun oils and cleaners when fully cured.
As for pillars I like the metal to metal contact to torque the action to but mine is wood. That said, I’m pretty sure I’d want that on any stock. Score Hi’s pillars are adjustable, so they are easy peasy to set then epoxy into place. He also includes those temporary action wing-nut screw sets to hold it all together during the glue-up.
Score Hi’s epoxy is very easy to work with (“glass bedding” I’m told is a misnomer for “epoxy-bedding”). It has almost no fumes and cleans up with low VOC mineral spirits. I did mine in my small den on a winter day. As you will see I taped everything off with blue painters tape and then everything else got a coat of release agent. Also Score Hi’s epoxy is impervious to gun oils and cleaners when fully cured.
As for pillars I like the metal to metal contact to torque the action to but mine is wood. That said, I’m pretty sure I’d want that on any stock. Score Hi’s pillars are adjustable, so they are easy peasy to set then epoxy into place. He also includes those temporary action wing-nut screw sets to hold it all together during the glue-up.
