To cut or not to cut...new Tikka T3X Lite

[Scooter1942]

Hi all,

It's been a minute since I've been on this site and after years of the tactical game, I've started down the rabbit hole of scout rifles and "general purpose" rifles. My scout game is covered with both a Steyr Scout and a Ruger GSR and I recently purchased a Tikka T3x Arctic which is a lovely beast. However, I found myself with a left over West German Schmidt & Bender fixed 4x scope that is amazingly bright and sharp and thus the hunt began for a host rifle for this scope.

Last week I picked up a .308 Tikka T3x Lite. 22.4" Stainless, 1:11 twist, synthetic stock, etc. My initial thought is to have it cut back to either 18.5" or 20". I envision this rifle to be a handy "ranch" rifle so to speak. I plan to drop it into a used CTR stock I just bought off eBay so that I have 10 rd. mag compatibility with my Arctic. With a fixed 4x I don't imagine shots over 300-400m. I found a reputable gunsmith in the area who will cut my barrel back, thread and even mount his proprietary muzzle brake (Scott @ Live Oak Accuracy outside of Dallas). However, because the barrel diameter being pretty thin to begin with, he'd have to thread to 1/2x28 instead of the more common 5/8x24 for .308.

So now I'm waffling on which direction to go. Should I simply have it cut? If so...to what length? I'm leaning towards 20" to keep it the same as the Arctic, but 18.5" is kind of the old school "carbine" length.

Do I have it threaded...and then have to live with a very specific muzzle brake (albeit a very effective and well made one)? If this option, I'm thinking 18.5" which would put the finished length at 19.75" or thereabouts. Scott did offer to make a thread adaptor which would allow me to use other muzzle devices, but I'm hesitant to use a can with a thread adaptor. But it does provide options for other muzzle devices, flash hiders, etc.

Then there's the piece about gambling with accuracy. The Tikka is guaranteed MOA...do I risk negatively impacting accuracy by cutting? I have faith in Scott's work and reputation but I tend to follow the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach to life.

So, I'm torn...which direction would you go if faced with this dilemma?

 

[TicTacTex]

Only the cool kids cut them to 16”. Join the crowd.

If you want a handy ranch rifle, that’s what I’d do.

16-18 inch shorty rifles

I'm picking up a used Rem700P and I am considering chopping the barrel back to 16 inches. Anyone have a shorty bolt action? Can you post pics? Specs? Thanks

www.snipershide.com

 

[ma smith]

OP why go thru all this hassle...

T3x Ranch

T3x Ranch

www.sako.global

 

[tekmann2377]

If the crown/threading work is good quality it is not likely accuracy will be affected.

Instead of a custom muzzle device and small threads, a better approach is cut the barrel to wherever there is adequate thickness for a more robust and common muzzle thread (IE 9/16x24 or 5/8x24).

Without knowing the exact profile I can't say whether or not there would be enough shoulder for 5/8x24 at 16" or 18.5" inches. If you can only get enough thickness for 9/16x24, it is easy enough to use an adapter for 9/16x24 to 5/8x24 so you use common muzzle devices.

I recently picked up a Tikka T3x Ranch Rifle that has a 16" barrel (it came threaded M15x1) and let me tell you that is DEFINITELY the way to go! It is so handy and isn't cumbersome even with a can attached... With modern bullets you easily have an effective hunting range out to 300-400 yards.

 

[tekmann2377]

Oh and the easy button is just to get a Ranch Rifle or Roughtech in the length you want... They don't make them in stainless though...

 

[hlee]

If you’re going to chop it, cut it short. And, if you can’t go 5/8-24, see if you can do 9/16-24. It’s not too difficult to find a 9/16-24 hub adapter for hub compatible suppressors.

 

[Scooter1942]

I looked hard at the Drover Ranch rifles and almost went that route but wanted to go stainless. Moreover, I was able to get a new stainless Lite for $220 less than retail and about $635 less than the Drover. So spending $150 to cut the muzzle back and spending $200 for a used CTR stock and magazine, still puts me ahead a fair margin and gets me the rifle in stainless.

 

[ma smith]

You would have been better off with a cut-down CTR (stainless) or d18 stainless barrel (similar to ranch rifle). ie, if you are looking for 5-10 round mag capacity of CTR mags, the16mm bbl by consensus don't support long shot strings in 308, see...eg.

 

[MurphyTX]

Not a tikka but I had my Howa .308 threaded at 1/2x28. Silencer central makes and adapter for 5/8x24 and it works just fine.

 

[Scooter1942]

All good info about the barrel diameter. I might keep the LITE in its original stock and just buy a 5 round mag. I could always use the CTR stock to swap out the orange laminate on the Arctic and likely shave off some weight in the process.

Weight is a concern for me on this rifle. Like I said, going for a handy lightweight build, thus my choice for this rifle...and the stainless. Somehow, I think I might wind up with the Tikka Drover Ranch too.

 

[TheJeanyus]

Since you already have other rifles, I'd cut it to 14.5" and pin/weld a brake that serves as a suppressor adapter (in my case, SilencerCo ASR brake). If you aren't shooting past 3-400 yards anyway, go short.

 

[Scooter1942]

Given that I have the thinnest 16mm barrel profile, would anyone be concerned about running a can on such a light profile barrel? I suppose if I cut it back to 16" I'll gain some girth, but enough to support a can? Originally, I had no intention of running a can on this because I wanted to keep it lightweight...something my .30 cal can is not.

 

[mark5pt56]

Cut it! Did this a looong time ago, one of the best rifles I ever had.



Monkeying about, making light loads for the kids.

 

[Scooter1942]

I’ve decided to go 18” with the brake. I almost went 16” but I don’t plan on running a can on this and the 18” barrel will look proportionally better with the factory stock. Muzzle brake adds 1.5” so I’ll be right at 19.5” finished out.

Stock to be determined. I’ll post pics when I get it back and put together.

Thanks for the info and opinions!

 

[LeftyJason]

For the true dimensions on a t3x lite barrel, 6.5 creed 24"lite stainless.

Legend: .dia {distance from muzzle} (barrel length)

.616 {0} (24.33)
.620 {1.358} (23)
.630 {2.57} (21.75)
.640 {3.81} (20.5)
.650 {5.05} (19.25)
.660 {6.27} (18.06)
Recommended od for 9/16 shoulder .662 {6.625} (17.7)
0.673 {8.08} (16.25)Beyond this point has to be registered as an SBR
At front of tupperware 0.711 {13.33} (11)
Recommended od for 5/8 0.725 {15} (9.33)

 

[Scooter1942]

Alright all. Just got my rifle back yesterday from Live Oak Accuracy. Scott is a stand up guy and knows his stuff. Seems he machined all of the Stiller Mk13 receivers back in the day and he clearly cares about craftsmanship. Cut the barrel back to 17.5", threaded, and installed Scott's proprietary brake bring overall barrel length to right at 18.5".

Dropped the action into a used CTR stock, swapped the pistol grip for the traditional one to slim things down a bit. Then threw on a Murphy Precision rail and Leupold VX3HD 2.5-8x36 for the time being. Might go with something nicer down the road, but wanted to start off light.

Here's a beauty shot. Hopefully I'll get her to the range in the next couple of weeks.