TO PAINT OR NOT TO PAINT!?
- Thread starter Dbig23
- Start date
- Nov 3, 2010
- 10,521
- 23,047
Just take your glasses off before you spray…ruined a pair that way.
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there are several threads about "personal" pant jobs
i cant stop myself from using spray paint on everything lol
tape off the rubber, trigger, scope caps, lens
half ass wipe down for dust
krylon is more subdued colors and dries much faster that rustoleum
15 minutes and your done
paint is for break up not a fashion contest, i change the color if its my hunting rifle from "woods" to "winter" colors
if you want the perfect look to last you need cerakote
for a first time, painters tape the entire rifle and give it a go...its only 5$ in tape and 5$ in paint
practice a few times and then do it for real
i cant stop myself from using spray paint on everything lol
tape off the rubber, trigger, scope caps, lens
half ass wipe down for dust
krylon is more subdued colors and dries much faster that rustoleum
15 minutes and your done
paint is for break up not a fashion contest, i change the color if its my hunting rifle from "woods" to "winter" colors
if you want the perfect look to last you need cerakote
for a first time, painters tape the entire rifle and give it a go...its only 5$ in tape and 5$ in paint
practice a few times and then do it for real
The trick is to huff it after you spray the gun…unless you’re into trippy patterns maaan
Stand mostly upwind. (Quartered)
If you stand down wind, it's your error, 200%.
100% upwind will create a vortex and get your glasses.
Or, just spray it in the garage next to the wife's car...
Yeah, it was around -10°F so I was painting in a heated garage. Project was some Valentines Day cardboard container contraption that I built for my daughter for her contribution for her class.Stand mostly upwind. (Quartered)
If you stand down wind, it's your error, 200%.
100% upwind will create a vortex and get your glasses.
Or, just spray it in the garage next to the wife's car...
Color was bubblegum pink.
Yeah, I looked cool AF after that.
Spray Painting Rifles
Made a video showing how I paint my rifles. Figured I would share it here just to show others in hopes of helping someone out. I only painted the stock on my coyote rifle in this video.
www.snipershide.com
Best part was getting the wife to grab a bunch of grass on our walk this morning. “Will this work? Ooh, what about that? That might look good!”
id get it dipped and clear coated instead
not mine, but a few examples.
not mine, but a few examples.
Desert sand spray can bedliner.
Tough finish that can take a bit more abuse than just spray paint.
Tough finish that can take a bit more abuse than just spray paint.
Spray can
Rustoleum I got in the paint section at auto zone
Paint...making more out of it than I need to... - M40rifle.com
'Now this is not the end. It is not even the beginning of the end. But it is perhaps, the end of the beginning'. Churchill - 1942 So whenever I take on a project
www.m40rifle.com
Cerakoted it.
It will be the best coating, and it is durable.
I had TAC A1 cerakoted, highland green.
Code H-200.
This is how your rifle would look, after fde cerakoted
www.cerakote.com
It will be the best coating, and it is durable.
I had TAC A1 cerakoted, highland green.
Code H-200.
This is how your rifle would look, after fde cerakoted
Cerakote - Cerakoted .308 Tikka T3x Tac A1 Rifle In H-235
This project was coated in Coyote Tan. See more of Camogun's projects at Cerakote.com along with 1,000's of cerakoted images and colors.
www.cerakote.com
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My rifles are all cerakoted.
i have had painted chassies too, but the paint wont last long on the surcafe of a gun.
i have had painted chassies too, but the paint wont last long on the surcafe of a gun.
PAINT IT!
As you can see, it looks even better after it has had some use and abuse.
As you can see, it looks even better after it has had some use and abuse.
Yes, but then it's a "battle worn" finish so if you have to sell it, you can charge more
I can tell you I have had stainless barrels that I did with the karakote kits and they came out pristeen using 4 coats on a hot day making sure they flashed off in between.
I think letting them flash off but not harden is a thing. Then using sunlight to set the paint with the uv. Looked and lasted like a factory job.
I have also got in a hurry to hide a stainless barrel and used grill paint. It's not durable and looks like some asshole painted it with grill paint.
I've done both. Painted guns myself and had cerakote done. It's all in what u want out of it or what u want to put in it.
Painted in a garage
Professionally cerakoted
Painted in a garage
Professionally cerakoted
I have 3 SS rifles with cerakoted barrel, no problems what so ever.
Left one is not one of them, that is chromoly barrel, but it is also cerakoted by od.
Middle one is stainless and the on the right, it has 4 different colors, since it is camo pattern.
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Will you please explain the flashing off and using sunlight to set the paint with UV?
For us paint ignorant folks? Thank you
Letting the carrier/solvent flash off or evaporate leaving behind just the ceramic paint.
Stuff dries faster in the sun where it gets lots of air circulation and heats up a bit. Not sure the uv helps it set faster or not but that doesnt really matter as it comes along with air movement and heat.
Flashing off is when the excellarents / thinners evaporate leaving the paint behind.
You can watch it "blush" cycle between wet / dry looking.
On a hot day don't take long.
At that flashed off state ( that looks dry but it's not and don't touch it ) you can put on the next thin coat.
4 thin coats had my barrel looking good, like down town.
Do this all in the shade you don't want to go too fast.
I let it harden overnite.
Next day hang it in full sunlight, rotate a few times.
The uv ultra violet light will help set / harden it.
Watch a vidio how to spray paint.
Prepping a stripped clean surface and masking are important.
And one last very important thing I learned was that soft foamies plug the muzzle end well but you really should remove them before next shot. Oops had the muzzle brake on and didn't notice.
Mate!! That looks awesome! How much did that hurt the wallet ??Cerakoted it.
It will be the best coating, and it is durable.
I had TAC A1 cerakoted, highland green.
Code H-200.
View attachment 7865606
This is how your rifle would look, after fde cerakoted
Cerakote - Cerakoted .308 Tikka T3x Tac A1 Rifle In H-235
This project was coated in Coyote Tan. See more of Camogun's projects at Cerakote.com along with 1,000's of cerakoted images and colors.
Thanks
.Singe color it is about 230-270.
The chassis/stock would be about 500$, is equal to 450€ in Finland for a camo pattern.
I have 2 KRG Whiskey panel kit on there at the moment, one will be multicamo and second one is desert camo.
Waiting time is the worst time, would love to see those ready, but i dont mind to call there, and rush it
Just painted my Tac A1 this morning. A few minutes masking parts, wipe down with 75% isopropyl wipes, and off I went. Solid color base coat of light green was really 4 light coats. Then the netting went on, hit with forest green and earth brown. Netting off, hit a couple spots with the FG and EB to create a little splotchiness, and cure in the sun for a few hours.
I had all materials on hand, so it was free to me, lol. But really, maybe $2 in materials. 5 ft of 1 inch blue tape, alcohol wipes, some earth tone spray paint, and netting. I highly recommend netting type materials. I keep them with my rifle pack, as field use material. Paint doesn’t hurt em one bit, and adds to their usefulness.
My main goal was simply breaking up the profile.
Paint them rifles!
Coyote Tan Tikka - “home brew”
There is a marble trick that really helps with masking for 2-tone flutes. You paint the base coat and let dry. Cover the barrel with 1 layer of tape keeping the overlap of tape to a minimum. Use a marble or steel ball bearing that is about twice as wide as the flute and rub it along the flute over the masking tape. The marble will cut the tape along the edge of the flute. It takes pretty firm pressure and a rubbing motion I have found. The edges are pretty clean. Touch up ends and any over hang with a razor blade. I also use the razor blade to cut along the flute where the tape may be overlapped. The marble has a hard time cutting through 2 layers cleanly.
There is a marble trick that really helps with masking for 2-tone flutes. You paint the base coat and let dry. Cover the barrel with 1 layer of tape keeping the overlap of tape to a minimum. Use a marble or steel ball bearing that is about twice as wide as the flute and rub it along the flute over the masking tape. The marble will cut the tape along the edge of the flute. It takes pretty firm pressure and a rubbing motion I have found. The edges are pretty clean. Touch up ends and any over hang with a razor blade. I also use the razor blade to cut along the flute where the tape may be overlapped. The marble has a hard time cutting through 2 layers cleanly.
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Yeah I should have taken a pic outside but...
This was my first attempt at rifle painting. Went with a light colored base then sprayed over some local vegetation with some brown then sprayed over it with the green. The green was lighter than I preferred so I lightly dusted over it with the brown in places. I'll do better on the next one.
And yes, my shop is a wreck.
I just cant get over how awesome the two Winchesters are
Some patterns from Freedom Stencils Weapon Works stencils…
Sorry for the borderline “high-jack”. If anyone cares to ask about the patterns I thought they were pretty unique when I found them. I just started getting into the more detailed patterns myself.
I like almost any DIY project; especially paint jobs.
Sorry for the borderline “high-jack”. If anyone cares to ask about the patterns I thought they were pretty unique when I found them. I just started getting into the more detailed patterns myself.
I like almost any DIY project; especially paint jobs.
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Guns are tools and paint should be functional for your intended use. Pretty much anything goes as long as it’s not “battleworn” cerakote 
I personally prefer spray paint… colors that match your environment. Use light, sporadic coats and multiple/different directions. Put some mesh or vegetation over it for maximum larp status. Most importantly, EMBRACE THE WEAR. The more variation, the better. And when it gets to be too beat or you just want to change it up, paint over it. But the bottom line is avoid clean lines and/or large areas of single color if you’re going for legitimate camouflage.
Otherwise, embrace the bright colors, camo dick patterns, or whatever you’re into and send it.
I personally prefer spray paint… colors that match your environment. Use light, sporadic coats and multiple/different directions. Put some mesh or vegetation over it for maximum larp status. Most importantly, EMBRACE THE WEAR. The more variation, the better. And when it gets to be too beat or you just want to change it up, paint over it. But the bottom line is avoid clean lines and/or large areas of single color if you’re going for legitimate camouflage.
Otherwise, embrace the bright colors, camo dick patterns, or whatever you’re into and send it.
….didn’t realize it was specifically a “spray paint” thread. Title says “paint.”
Started off with Duracoat a few years ago and it’s a good option along with C-series Cerakote.
Also, Duracoat has their aerosol kits too so there are several good alternatives to spray paint that do not require baking.
Lastly, the stencil kits can be used with spray paint too. If someone wants to know more about a specific style, I don’t mind sharing some of the techniques I use. I’m no professional. I just like to paint. I’m still learning too.
I’ve found a couple good places to get stencils. One place has some unique ones I haven’t found elsewhere.
Just here to participate and share information. Sometimes it’s hard to find good inspiration. I’ve searched many hours only to see the same styles often repeated.
(Edited original post to be minimal and more informative - “brianf” had a point)
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Haha thanks...
Problem is, now idk how to paint the SPR. I bought an MDT chassis for it so I can switch it back and forth when I want from chassis to stock.
Anyone have any ideas???
