Re: Ultimate Build for a Precision 10/22 w/no budget
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: m1a convert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
I would like to build a nice precision 10/22 for practicing precision shooting.
It will be scoped and need to have a stock that will not flex when shot slung up. I want it to be somewhat light (I will still walk with it at times)
If money wasn't an object, how would you build it and why? I don't own the gun yet so should I buy an aftermarket receiver, or just start with a standard 10/22? </div></div>
<span style="font-weight: bold">McMillan Sporter</span> stock, but shop around - Volquartsen sells at ultimate retail. The going rate for an off-the-shelf McMillan Sporter is under $400.00. I bought this
<span style="font-weight: bold">McMillan Sporter</span> off of <span style="font-weight: bold">edgerat</span> a couple of weeks ago.
I have a great shooting, slightly tweeked 10/22 in a Hogue Overmolded (black rubber) stock. I shoot it off of a bipod most of the time and you can tell there is some flex there, but hey it shoots well. I hope my built-from-the-ground-up 10/22 will shoot better in the McMillan. It <span style="font-style: italic">should</span> for what it cost to build.
<span style="font-weight: bold">MOA Stainless Steel Receiver</span>. Stronger (but heavier) than CNC'd aluminum. Has a second lug at rear of receiver which will allow you to free-float a heavy barrel without stressing the receiver. Threaded 3/4-16 for thread-in barrels, but the barrel port is reamed at .6875" to accept standard 10/22 "slip-in" barrels. I prefer thread-in barrels, as you can eliminate barrel droop and the inconsistent alignment inherent in the V-Block system.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Volquartsen CNC Machined Bolt</span>. I like the Volquartsen CNC'd Bolt over the
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Match Bolt</span>,
<span style="font-weight: bold">Rimfire Technologies Accurized Bolt</span>, and the tuned unit from
<span style="font-weight: bold">Connecticut Precision Chambering (CPC)</span> because I prefer the design of the firing pin. Rather than using a flat firing pin in a slot (like the stock Ruger and other tuned units), the Volquartsen's round firing pin is enclosed entirely within the bolt body and will not "ride up" like other firing pins can do. Sure, the bolt can be pinned to keep the FP from riding-up, but the VQ unit doesn't require pinning.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Two-Stage Match Trigger</span>. Expensive? Hell yes, but the Kid trigger is the best of the best.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Receiver Pin Kit</span>. Keeps the receiver pins from falling out when you remove the action from the stock.
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Bolt Buffer</span>. Definitely worth it to have - smooths-out the cycling of the 10/22 action by reducing the vibration of metal-to-metal contact. (You've gotta figure its easier on the action too).
<span style="font-weight: bold">Krieger</span>,
<span style="font-weight: bold">Lilja</span>,
<span style="font-weight: bold">Douglas</span>, or
<span style="font-weight: bold">PAC-NOR</span> barrel blanks. Randy at CPC can get you squared away and send the barreled action to you when ready.
If you don't go with the Volquartsen CNC Bolt there are the others mentioned above, or just have Randy at CPC do the bolt work for you. Also, if you don't want to wait for a barrel blank you can always use a slip-in. In that case you can order
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Completion Kit with Two-Stage Trigger, Barrel, Receiver Pin Kit, & Bolt Buffer</span> ($499.10), or the
<span style="font-weight: bold">Kid Completion Kit with Two-Stage Trigger, Barrel, Bolt, Receiver Pin Kit, & Bolt Buffer</span> ($571.21). I've actually spoken to both Tony and Maripat Kid but I forgot to ask if Kid stakes-in the firing pin to keep it from riding up in the slot, which can cause inconsistent ignition. I've read that Kid uses re-worked factory bolts - I know that Randy at CPC does, and that Randy pins his bolts. Skeeter at Rimfire Technologies can tell you what method they use, but I think he pins them too.
The MOA receiver, .920 barrel, and VQ CNC bolt add heft. Add a bipold and the gun is a lot more chunky than a factory gun, but its still light compared to a .308 or most good German air rifles.
Keith